Sorry for bringing up an old thread, was wondering how you did your doors. I'm going to be replacing my front speakers here soon and wanted to deaden my doors.
2003 component Door speakers
- Thread starter chadecoen
- Start date
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if ur still wanting to get more bass w/o subs...youtbe SQ build or google it...theres plent of sites for SQ builds...SQ=sound quality...and ppl are metering and winning bass comps with this setup...
Ok cool, I'll look at that, I was just wondering what he did to his specific truck to make it sound so good! Maybe certain materials/combinations work best in Expy's 
I already have a 1200W 4ch with a 2000W sub amp and a Diamond Audio sub, the door speakers are giving up the ghost though, they held up surprisingly well interestingly enough. I replaced the stock tweeter with a polk tweeter on the fronts and kept the midbass since all I had were the tweets and crossovers from previous warranty returns. Now I want to replace the midbasses with 6.5's with an adapter plate and still run the separate polks. Thought I might as well deaden while I'm at it.
I already have a 1200W 4ch with a 2000W sub amp and a Diamond Audio sub, the door speakers are giving up the ghost though, they held up surprisingly well interestingly enough. I replaced the stock tweeter with a polk tweeter on the fronts and kept the midbass since all I had were the tweets and crossovers from previous warranty returns. Now I want to replace the midbasses with 6.5's with an adapter plate and still run the separate polks. Thought I might as well deaden while I'm at it.
I think for sq u will have to go with 8s in the doors...
Holy Rollerz Christian Car Club (HRC3)
Holy Rollerz Christian Car Club (HRC3)
Hey, I just used the cheesy home depot roofing stuff for deadner and thinsulate. Didn't smell at all but does make one heck of a mess and the goo gets everywhere. I have been working in Dallas, TX and triple digit days haven't caused any issues either. Although I do think the glue gets a little slimy in hot weather.
I used a combo of 1x1 panels inside the door cavity to knock down vibration, thin egg crate foam 1x1 panels glued to the inside of the door behind the speakers, and then completely, or as completely as possible, sealed up the open areas behind the panel. I re-installed the factory plastic layer behind the panel. Then I used thinsulate on the back of the door panel and sandwitched it all back together. I think I prolly went a little over board but I don't think you can seal up the doors too much. Sounds fantastic. Very loud and crisp. I think even the oem speakers would sound crazy better in deadened doors. Aftermarket amp driven speakers sound phenomenal. There is some good reading on line about deadening your doors and rights and wrongs and science behind it all and what not. Good luck with yours man, you will not regret the time spent sealing up our doors.
I used a combo of 1x1 panels inside the door cavity to knock down vibration, thin egg crate foam 1x1 panels glued to the inside of the door behind the speakers, and then completely, or as completely as possible, sealed up the open areas behind the panel. I re-installed the factory plastic layer behind the panel. Then I used thinsulate on the back of the door panel and sandwitched it all back together. I think I prolly went a little over board but I don't think you can seal up the doors too much. Sounds fantastic. Very loud and crisp. I think even the oem speakers would sound crazy better in deadened doors. Aftermarket amp driven speakers sound phenomenal. There is some good reading on line about deadening your doors and rights and wrongs and science behind it all and what not. Good luck with yours man, you will not regret the time spent sealing up our doors.
So you did 1'x1' sound deadening sheets on the door skin, then egg crate glued to the backside of the metal inner door panel (facing the window), and "thinsulate" coated the back side of the plastic door panel?
I should have taken photos. Lot easier to show you than describe it.
Yes and no. I used a couple of pieces on the inside of the outer door skin equaling about 1 square foot. I read somewhere that a very small percentage of material knocking down vibration works almost as well as covering the whole inside.
Then right next to the deadener on the inside of the outer skin I glued one approx 1'x1' egg crate foam to the door kind of behind where the back of the speaker is.
Then I covered the area that the plastic door panel clips too with more deadner, filling in every inch trying to make it air tight as possible. I guess it is the outside of the inner door skin? The same surface the speakers bolt too.
Then I hung thinsulate on the back of the plastic door panel and squished it all back together. Was a real pain in the arse cause I had covered up all the holes where the door panel clips on to the door. but a little trimming had it all back together.
Couple of notes though.......
Take the time to kill any rattles before closing up your doors. Trust me, it sucks removing this crap after the fact.
I sealed up the lower cladding on the doors from the inside just to make sure there were going to be no rattles. I also had rattles coming from both rear door window tracks I fixed before applying deadener. I used the soft side of sticky backed velcro to cushion and wrap door hardware and various moving parts I thought might give me trouble later on. And I cleaned and regreased all the window hardware and cables.
Good luck and let us know how it sounds!
Yes and no. I used a couple of pieces on the inside of the outer door skin equaling about 1 square foot. I read somewhere that a very small percentage of material knocking down vibration works almost as well as covering the whole inside.
Then right next to the deadener on the inside of the outer skin I glued one approx 1'x1' egg crate foam to the door kind of behind where the back of the speaker is.
Then I covered the area that the plastic door panel clips too with more deadner, filling in every inch trying to make it air tight as possible. I guess it is the outside of the inner door skin? The same surface the speakers bolt too.
Then I hung thinsulate on the back of the plastic door panel and squished it all back together. Was a real pain in the arse cause I had covered up all the holes where the door panel clips on to the door. but a little trimming had it all back together.
Couple of notes though.......
Take the time to kill any rattles before closing up your doors. Trust me, it sucks removing this crap after the fact.
I sealed up the lower cladding on the doors from the inside just to make sure there were going to be no rattles. I also had rattles coming from both rear door window tracks I fixed before applying deadener. I used the soft side of sticky backed velcro to cushion and wrap door hardware and various moving parts I thought might give me trouble later on. And I cleaned and regreased all the window hardware and cables.
Good luck and let us know how it sounds!
Awesome info! By chance is this the deadener stuff you're talking about?
Protecto Wrap, Window and Door Sealing/flashing Tape, 89720933 at The Home Depot - Mobile
Protecto Wrap, Window and Door Sealing/flashing Tape, 89720933 at The Home Depot - Mobile
Actuaally, now that I think about it, I got it at lowes. I think it was this stuff: Shop Peel & Seal 6-in x 300-in Aluminum Flashing at Lowes.com
But I expect home depots stuff is about the same. In a perfect world name brand deadener would be best and then next best maybe something like the depo stuff but butyl or rubber based instead of asphalt based but hey, asphalt stuff is inexpensive.
But I expect home depots stuff is about the same. In a perfect world name brand deadener would be best and then next best maybe something like the depo stuff but butyl or rubber based instead of asphalt based but hey, asphalt stuff is inexpensive.
oblivion
Full Access Members
You are very accurate in suggesting sound deadening. In more ways than one its awesome and it will help your system sound better all around but I am going to be a bit of a Debbie downer for the rest of it. I am sorry but I really wish people would stop using asphalt based "sound deadening" it is not meant to be used in enclosed spaces. It off gasses, it will peel in hot climates and it will harden in cold climates. yes it is on average nearly 1/4 the price of real sound deadening but you are using an inferior product to do a job it is not meant to do.
Save your $$ and get a butyl based deadener. I have compared both in direct A to B, and butyl based will out perform every time in every situation.
Save your $$ and get a butyl based deadener. I have compared both in direct A to B, and butyl based will out perform every time in every situation.
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