2003 Expedition 5.4 misfire cylinders 2&3, flashing check engine light, major loss of power

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Hello everyone! I'm brand new to this forum and wanted to get some advice on a purchase I am about to make. I'm looking at getting an 2003 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4. It has no valve noise. But.. the engine is running terribly and there is a misfire in cylinders 2&3 and a major loss in power. The check engine light is flashing/blinking constantly. I'm curious if this is a common problem that can be remedied. I was thinking it could be a head gasket, Ignition coils, etc.. I'll attach a few pics from the wireless scanner that we used to get the codes. I know that is not ideal, but the vehicle is 30 minutes outside of my city so I don't have the ability to take it to a shop before I purchase it. The seller is only asking $1000 for it as is so I'm hoping it's something that can be fixed without having to pull off the heads. There's no burning oil, no milkshake in the anti freeze or oil, no valve train noise, nothing. "Just" a major loss in power and a misfire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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stamp11127

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Welcome to the site. There are numerous threads on here concerning missfires and how to properly diagnose them. Also look for stray voltage in the coolant while running. It tends to eat heater cores and radiators.

Offer $500 cash in hand and see if they bite.
 

1955moose

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It could be just electrical like coils misfiring, or it could be something more serious. How many miles on vehicle? Whenever purchasing a vehicle that has a driveability issue like this one, you've got to figure worst case scenario. It may need an engine. If it turns out to be simple great, but go into it expecting the worse, that way their will be no surprises. If this fix was simple, don't you think the owner would have that fixed, and sell for much more. I've bought and sold a lot of vehicles in my years. Rarely are the fixes a simple one!

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It could be just electrical like coils misfiring, or it could be something more serious. How many miles on vehicle? Whenever purchasing a vehicle that has a driveability issue like this one, you've got to figure worst case scenario. It may need an engine. If it turns out to be simple great, but go into it expecting the worse, that way their will be no surprises. If this fix was simple, don't you think the owner would have that fixed, and sell for much more. I've bought and sold a lot of vehicles in my years. Rarely are the fixes a simple one!

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350,000 kms on it... As you can see from.the pics it did show a coil code so I'm not too sure what I should do. Will it be worth buying if I had to do the gaskets and coils? I can get all of the parts cheap and do the work myself. I've been fixing vehicles for 20+yrs and have done bigger jobs than this. Are these 5.4 as bad as everyone says they are?
 

Jb14

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Welcome to the site, as stated it could be quite a few issues, some simple some major. If this is the vehicle you want due to price, then a bit more information needs to be asked to the seller. I have had a couple issues with misfires and mine turned out to be a coil pack went out. for me it was very specific it ran and idled no problem until I got to about 45 mph then would cut out, check engine flashed, but changing out the coil pack fixed it but that was mine in a vehicle I know. I agree with moose that if simple why was it not have been repaired? and if it was just that the owner was a bit lazy to repair what else did they neglect. I would look for another vehicle my self. But if you want a maybe project then take stamps advise and go low. Keep in mind parts on these vehicles can be pricey, plus these vehicles seem to fall into two categories, either solid where you can replace an item and it's fixed or you end up chasing. Just my opinion.
 

BRIANGEE

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I would go rent you an engine block / head gasket chemical test kit at your local auto parts store. In my case they will rent you the test kit for free but you have to buy the fluid - it's like $10 but you get enough fluid to do about 10 tests - then perform the test at the degass bottle. It's super quick, simple and noninvasive. I intend to do this procedure on any future used vehicle I buy from now on. But once you rule out a cracked block or bad head gasket you'll feel a lot better about purchasing this thing.

A little more invasive but not too bad would be to do a compression test on at least cylinders 1 & 2 on the offending bank since it's easy to get at and probably 4 and 5 as well..

Personally with that many miles I wouldn't even bother - it being a Ford and all. I like the $500 offer idea. You won't have much regret at that price and the scrap yard would probably offer you at least half that in case you buy it then decide to let go.
 
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