2004 shakes violently when braking

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

tilliepeople

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Posts
73
Reaction score
10
Location
Madison
My 2004 shakes really bad when braking.Steering wheel does not shake though.
I checked the rear brakes and found a parking brake dragging but after repairing that the hammering went away but it still shakes violently. Calipers are good and pads are wearing evenly and rotors show no sign of warping. i am drifting toward an ABS sensor bad but do not want to just start throwing parts at it .
It is getting to cold to work on it in the driveway so I hope to have a pretty good idea where to go if I need to take it apart again.
Also note it drives straight with no drifting
 

Hamfisted

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
2,893
Reaction score
1,795
Location
Ft Lauderdale
Do you have a code reader that will read ABS codes ? That or take it to an alignment shop and let them check it out. Worn out inner tie/outer tie rods may cause it to shake. But off the top of my head I'd say front rotors are warped. They're cheap to replace.
 

Hamfisted

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
2,893
Reaction score
1,795
Location
Ft Lauderdale
Yes, but take it to a shop and let them look at it. It's almost impossible to properly diagnose something like this over the internet.
 
OP
OP
T

tilliepeople

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Posts
73
Reaction score
10
Location
Madison
Thats kinda where i was at
It just doesn't act like what you would expect
Thanks for the help
 

MesaGuy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
34
Location
Costa Mesa, CA
First guess, its a warped rotor. But if its shaking badly, you ought to be able to see such warping. (Have you pulled both the front tires and actually inspected the rotors on both sides?)

But after that: Shot steering linkage and stabilizer linkages in the front, or the control arm bushings. If you live in a winter cold climate zone, and its a 2004, the bushings and linkages are almost certainly shot. I'd guess control arm bushings first, probably the lower arm on one side or both.

My 1999 (in sunny near perfect Climate, no road salt, California) has nearly shot bushings, everywhere. Upper and lower control arm bushings (the rubber things at the arm pivots), the rubber boots on all the ball joints in the steering linkages are shot (but the ball joints are still OK for now), the stabilizer bar bushings are all cracked, and the stablizer linkages had actually failed (those I replaced). It ALL needs to be replaced, but I have been waiting for better weather to go do it.

If you live in a snowy or very wet winter zone, and especially if they use road salt where you live, then a 2004 model would be all done in the same way by now. Mine is only hanging in there because of mild climate.

When the lower (especially) or upper (a bit less) control arm bushings go, then on breaking, things will shake pretty badly.

You can inspect to some extent the control arm bushings, but the critical part is on the inside of the donut hole where the bolts go through the rubber cylinder, and you cannot really inspect that. But you can infer what kind of bad shape its in, if the outside of the rubber cylinders are cracked. If the outside is cracked, then the inside is shot (stretched out, compressed, cracking, and loose), and the lower and possible upper control arm bushing are done.

Though it is a very Big Bill, I would take it to a private mechanic that services Ford's, or specializes in suspension work, and work out a deal to get it all done at one time, because there is a huge labor savings. e.g. Get the upper, lower bushings, ball joints (whole upper control arm if he wants to go that way), Idler Arm, Steering (Pitman) Arm, inside and outside steering linkages, AND the stablizer bar bushings, and the stabilizer bar link connectors, ALL replaced at one time. I'd also have the proper alignment hardware installed (if missing, some Ford model years do not supply the cams), and you will need an alignment when that is all over (get that done at an alignment shop if the mechanic doesn't have an alignment setup). If you have it done all at once, you ought to be able to negotiate a 30% savings on the labor. So wait for the quote, and then ask for 30% off the labor quote. [He is saving perhaps 70% of the labor by doing it all together, but you won't ever get that. But 30% is reasonable.]

Unless you are going to do it all yourself. If so, and you are going to go "weekend of work at a time", then I would buy a new upper control arm with installed ball joint, And if you don't have a press, then a whole new lower control arm also, with bushings installed (rockauto) and the lower ball joint, and do that first on both the left and right front.

But a 2004, that has never had any of the front suspension elements changed, in a harsh winter climate, is due up I'm afraid. The rubber parts (bushings and boots) are all failing. When the bushings go on the control arms, you tend to get shaking, particularly when the lower control arm bushings go.
 
OP
OP
T

tilliepeople

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Posts
73
Reaction score
10
Location
Madison
I did replace a sticky caliper and that eliminated the steering problems BUT now the whole truck shakes, but I can stop in a straight line.
I am thinking it's probably in the rear but when I took them apart all I found was a parking brake chattering.
The ABS light came on about a week ago so it may be a bad sensor although it was shaking before that.
Someone borrowed my OBD2 checker and did not return it, so I guess the first step is to get a new one.
It is getting too cold to work in the driveway so I may break down and take it to a shop but I'm afraid it could run $2000 when all is said and done
 

MesaGuy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
34
Location
Costa Mesa, CA
If the ABS light is on, then its probably that.
Coder Reader with ABS, $49 Code Reader (click link to left). Is cheap, has ABS. Personally, I'd get one with ive data as well, and spend a little more, like $80. But $49 is not bad for ABS codes.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

MesaGuy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
34
Location
Costa Mesa, CA
This one has LIVE DATA - Code Reader This other unit from Innova ($100) has live data. Obviously, a billion choices out there, I usually go for the Autel brand, they have been around a long time and I have had good luck with them. But to each his own preference.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

MesaGuy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
Posts
53
Reaction score
34
Location
Costa Mesa, CA
Or just drive it over to OReilly Auto or Autozone or NAPA and ask them to read the code on it for you. That's free, except the time.
 

Retiredusps

Full Access Members
Joined
Oct 28, 2018
Posts
199
Reaction score
83
Location
N.J.
Wife's 05 did same thing turned out to be colapsed hose from frame to caliper.replaced both sides fixe I did same thing new pads calipers rotors, stilll shook the hole truck hoses fixed it.
 

JamaicaJoe

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 20, 2020
Posts
948
Reaction score
430
Location
Oviedo FL
If you had a stuck caliper, you likely also had heat damage to rotor and possibly the ABS sensor. On my 2001 at 90K miles I had a sticky right rear caliper so I replaceable the rear calipers and ALL of the brake hoses, front and rear. I also had a right rear axle seal leak as a result.
 

nitro nicky

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Healdsburg, California
What mileage do you have on your rig? If it's up towards 200k it could be that the steering box needs an adjustment. You can usually see the signs of that when it's building up play in the steering wheel. That will definitely shake the whole vehicle violently when applying brakes. -Do you have a friend that can help you push one of the front wheels back and forth while you do the same with the other front wheel? Any suspension play from a worn front end part should show up with movement. A way to check for warped front brake rotors is to figure out a way to rigidly attach a screwdriver so it's just about to touch the outer surface at 90 degrees. As you turn the wheel clockwise or counter, the 'warp' will easily show up as the screwdriver touches or moves away from the rotor surface. Rotors and brake pads should always be replaced in pairs. If only one side has been replaced that can easily cause one wheel assembly to grab before the the other causing a vicious shake. Nico
 

nitro nicky

Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Healdsburg, California
You're probably aware of this, but the cheap replacement or slotted performance rotors that are typically sold on Ebay will develop cracks, easily warp, etc.
 
Joined
Jul 15, 2016
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Long Island, NY
But wouldn't that tend to make the steering wheel shake also .
Had the BAD shake on my 04... Could have sworn it was the front rotors... IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE REARS ! No shake in the steering but the vehicle shake was SEVERE !!! Been fixing my own stuff for DECADES ! This one shocked the S out of me !!! On another note... Check all your Brake lines !!! They love to rust out and BLOW !!! I had to change EVERY LINE after 2 seperate close calls ! The one that runs across under the engine to the passenger front was the worst ! At the age of your truck this is a MAJOR concern... Custom cut all new lines using copper coated nickel brake line... To those who point you to an ABS Sensor HEADS UP If the sensor is shot the wheel bearing/hub is guaranteed right behind it ready to go... You put a new sensor in and it fails within a month ! The Wobble is almost undetectable but enough that the sensor gets ground up by the hall effect vane inside the hub scraping on it... The hubs are a **** to remove !
 
Last edited:

lwbrown05

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2021
Posts
6
Reaction score
6
Location
93010
I agree with collapsed brake lines and if you have drum brakes on the rear then I would check to make sure that the primary and secondary shoes aren't installed backwards. Dont know if thev offered rear drum brakes in 04 or not but if so check it out
 

the bus

Full Access Members
Joined
Sep 16, 2016
Posts
110
Reaction score
24
Location
18064
i had a jeep with a similar issue .... i simply pulled the ABS fuse. Yes the abs light was on and no abs but the brakes worked fine after that. It may be a good test for you. Wont hurt anything for sure. and gotta get your code scanned out.
 
OP
OP
T

tilliepeople

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Posts
73
Reaction score
10
Location
Madison
I bought a decent OBD2 scanner but it seems my connector does not work.
Is there a fuse for it or were should i look for a problem .
Thank you
Bill
 
Joined
Jul 15, 2016
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Long Island, NY
Any Fuses on that '04 are on the PASSENGER SIDE... You have to pull away the hard plastic "Kick Wall" just in front of the front passenger door... I posted about the rear shake and abs problem for you back in December... I had an '04 new till 240k can tell you a lot... Some of the scanners don't do abs or active restraint diagnostics... You can go to a FRIENDLY autoparts store and they may be able to help you out... I went to a friends shop where the mechanic had a scanner that did abs and thats how I found which sensor was gone... WHY YOUR scanner doesn't work is a mystery ? There are quite a few fuses under that kick plate ! I suggest you use a test light and not just looh at the fuses... MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE IGNITION ON !!! ground the test light clip lead and check for power at BOTH contact points where they protrude through the plastic grab handle/amp marker it's faster then pulling every fuse... The key has to be on for the scanner to work and so through the fuse IF THERE IS ONE... As I said in my previous post my abs sensor went bad and changed it... Fixed for a couple of weeks and failed again... I was told ANY MINOR skew in the wheel bearing will cause the notched trigger wheel inside to just slightly rub on the sensor itself grinding at it making it fail... Soooo I had to change out the hub itself which came with a new abs sensor... I purchases a MOOG Hub (better Quality) As for those parking brake shoes... They NEVER worked from new !!! If there's a ridge built up inside the combo rotor/drum in the rear and you expand them out in an attempt to get the parking brake to work, youll never be able to get the drum portion back over the shoes !!! HORRIBLE DESIGN as ther is no access hole in either the drum or backing plate to access the star adjuster !!! You might try an external cable adjuster/clamp to shorten the park cable... If you've got any other weird issues you can send me a pm on facebook... P e t e Rich ards... I'm in a Beret with 2 German Shepherds... Hope I could help... good luck... I liked the '04 so much that I bought a '14
 
Top