2005 Catalytic Converter replacement DIY

[Chris Watkinson]

I've owned an '05 for a number of years, currently at about 140k miles. Ongoing problems about replacing coil packs, etc and that eventually took a toll on my catalytic converter(s).

About a year ago I got a OBD code for Bank 2 caty con (don't remember what it was). Just kept driving and eventually the code didn't come back. Outta sight, outta mind... Of course my gas mileage has remained terrible (around 11mpg/12mpg city) and the exhaust is super smelly, so the problem remained.

Fast forward to now, and I've been getting a P0430 code which I believe is still bank 2 (driver side)... Took it into the shop and the mechanic said the PASSENGER SIDE cat has got to be replaced, and he said we might as well do both. That seems odd, as I'm pretty sure the code I got a year ago was driver side (bank 2), and the 0430 code is bank 2 (driver side), but with a truck this old, this many miles, and has had persistent issues in the emissions system, I guess I'll take his word for it.

MY QUESTION: Shop wants to charge about $1K for the job, but it looks like I can buy some direct fit parts for around $500 (both cats). I'm not a mechanic but I can turn a wrench, and this looks pretty accessible (although the rust is gonna be a sonofabitch I can tell).

Looking under there, it looks like there's a pretty substantial subframe brace that protects the cats. DO I HAVE TO REMOVE THIS to get the cats off? Or will the whole thing just drop out if I remove that subframe piece?

Thoughts? Anyone ever do this before on an '05 and want to share any tips?

Here's a pretty crummy picture of the subframe brace I'm talking about. Pic is from the driver side, just beneath the driver seat. I think the bank 2 Cat is at the top of the picture, bank 1 may not be viewable from this angle.

 

[autoarcheologist]

I can't speak to the subframe, but every time I touch an exhaust all the bolts are rusted and half break. Make sure you pick up some new hardware. And good luck.

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[1955moose]

If your playing with exaust at home, its always a struggle! That being said, your working downwind of the exaust manifold. Push come to shove if a stud breaks at the cat your removing, its not that big a deal. My advice buy a can of kroil oil penetrant, douse the heck out of the nuts/ studs hours before disassembly. That and have a big hammer to help break loose anything stuck. Push to shove if you get stuck a Muffler shop can finish the job! Kroil oil can be bought at Wal mart/Kmart. Or online. Stinky, but good nut buster!

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[Don Hall]

Just for reference: shop replaced both cats $280/ea. + labor $85 (2004 XLS)

 

[Chris Watkinson]

Just for reference: shop replaced both cats $280/ea. + labor $85 (2004 XLS)

Yeah I think their parts total was coming in around $500-$600, and another $500 for labor... A little too rich for me, considering I've also got to replace all my rocker panels due to rust...

ANYWAY I went ahead and ordered both Cats on CarParts.com, Evan Fischer brand (no idea if that's reputable or not). Borrowing some jack stands from a buddy, and going to dive in myself. Prepared to douse the thing in penetrating oil, but still have no idea about socket sizes, etc. If anyone has any experiential wisdom to share, that'd be appreciated. WISH ME LUCK!

 

[1955moose]

As far as sockets/ wrenches, a basic set of each, 8mm to 19mm, your covered. I'm guessing 13-15 mm is the size for removal. The spraying down ahead is a good idea. You might want to have a sawzall handy just in case. Also scout out any connector pipes, in case you need them, along with studs and nuts. You never know what your going to be able to reuse.

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[CAKD07]

I've had both sides replaced on my '05 EB. First at around 100K and Ford dealer referred me to a muffler shop that specialized in this. Ford wanted 1K, muffler dealer did it for under $300 in less than 30 minutes. Later with over 200K the other side died. Goodyear shop I do my service with referred me to same muffler dealer but different location with same results (price and time). Come to find out they are the primary place to get this done in DFW. They also told me if you got 100K on a CC you were doing good.

 

[CaptOchs]

You can get away with buying a non-CARB compliant cat converter. California vehicles require them, NY requires them if the car came with them. I've been using them anyway. It works with NY emissions. I replaced everything from the manifolds back for $700 + $400 installation. The installation was higher because one of the oxygen sensors broke removing it. I went to walkerexhaust.com and it shows all the parts. I ordered everything on Amazon.

 

[the bus]

I got a complete walker exhaust from Rock Auto 2 years ago. I would try eastern catalytic instead of the walkers. I had the new cats fail and rattle on the passenger side. Replaced that side under warranty. Then had a another rattle and restriction which was in the muffler. Order the entire muffler, donut, and pipes again from Rock Auto and a walker system. I cut the pipes and found the cat in the muffler. Ugh!!! I continued and replace the system since inhad it and cut the pipes to get it out. The hardest part is lining up the 2 cats at the cross over. And the exhaust manifold bolts may need to be drilled out. Yes the cross member needs to be removed. I also stripped the threads on that too. You will need ramps and a long pry bar, and I put hi temp silicon at all joints. The cat back part is really easy and you should use a sawzall. A local shop should be able to do this for less than your quote.

 

[Chris Watkinson]

I got a complete walker exhaust from Rock Auto 2 years ago. I would try eastern catalytic instead of the walkers. I had the new cats fail and rattle on the passenger side. Replaced that side under warranty. Then had a another rattle and restriction which was in the muffler. Order the entire muffler, donut, and pipes again from Rock Auto and a walker system. I cut the pipes and found the cat in the muffler. Ugh!!! I continued and replace the system since inhad it and cut the pipes to get it out. The hardest part is lining up the 2 cats at the cross over. And the exhaust manifold bolts may need to be drilled out. Yes the cross member needs to be removed. I also stripped the threads on that too. You will need ramps and a long pry bar, and I put hi temp silicon at all joints. The cat back part is really easy and you should use a sawzall. A local shop should be able to do this for less than your quote.

That's all great info, thanks! Can you explain what you mean by "the cat back part is really easy and you should use a sawzall"? I own a sawzall but don't know what I should plan on cutting... I'm having a hard time getting the two bolts out of the top of both cats... Really not any room to move a wrench, and they're rusted on pretty good.