2005 Expedition Valve body removal

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Rob Adams

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Posts
47
Reaction score
8
Location
Medford, OR
Anybody have any tips or tricks or maybe know of a video or picture walkthrough on the process of removing the valve body from the transmission? I have come to the conclusion I have the #7 check ball issue that there is a TSB for. Symptoms...from stop at a light acceleration at a normal pace the transmission seems to shift through the first 2-3 gears rapidly with a hesitation between...almost like it disengages or loss of power for a brief moment. If I stomp on it it's better, also if I manually shift through the gears it shifts smoothly. I do not plan to drop the transmission unless I have to, and have dropped the pan to change the filter before. Just am trying to avoid any spring und sproingen. I "think" it's as simple as unbolting a crapton of bolts and then dropping it down level to keep the little bits inside. Any advice or tips would be appreciated.
 

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
Heads up before you jump in on this - most if not all valve bodies today are aluminum. A slight over tightening will lock a spool valve in the valve body bore. Make sure you have a "GOOD" torque wrench to hit the number dead nuts when putting it back in. Harbor Freight torque wrench isn't a good torque wrench for this.

I played around with a VW auto and all it took was 5 in/lbs over to lock the spool valve.

Check balls: don't lose them!

The valve body will be very slippery to handle, make sure you have a very good grip on it when the last bolt comes out. Don't ask me how I know.

Also wear safety glasses in case you drop the valve body in the pan of fluid....
 
OP
OP
R

Rob Adams

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Posts
47
Reaction score
8
Location
Medford, OR
Heads up before you jump in on this - most if not all valve bodies today are aluminum. A slight over tightening will lock a spool valve in the valve body bore. Make sure you have a "GOOD" torque wrench to hit the number dead nuts when putting it back in. Harbor Freight torque wrench isn't a good torque wrench for this.

I played around with a VW auto and all it took was 5 in/lbs over to lock the spool valve.

Check balls: don't lose them!

The valve body will be very slippery to handle, make sure you have a very good grip on it when the last bolt comes out. Don't ask me how I know.

Also wear safety glasses in case you drop the valve body in the pan of fluid....


This is very good advice! Thank you for the pro-tips!

Is it truly as simple as I think it is? Unbolt pan, drain, remove filter, and then find the bolts for the valve body and drop it down? No springs or anything to go shooting off? If its just a matter of keeping it level as it comes off the bottom of the tranny then I think this should be a fairly straightforward process. I was hoping there would be a picture or video walkthrough somewhere.

Is there an updated parts number for these little balls? and should I replace them all at the same time?
 

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
I'd grab the factory service manual off ebay and read up on the procedure before going into it.
 

Latest posts

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
53,396
Posts
500,653
Members
46,812
Latest member
Dcleghorn01
Top