2007 expedition , crank , no start / after disconnecting battery for 24h, start right away

[alzikrw777]

1 . went to gas station , filled up (yes, absolutely certain put right gas in it and not diesel)
2. started no issue, headed back home,
3. after 500 m, started running rough , shaking, stoped at red light, engine shuts off
4. tried to start it , it cranked but no start, engine light came on
5 moved it on the side, run all modules scan with my blue driver.
6 it came with 2 codes - B1318 - Battery voltage low and B1602 Time since last clear A (Pats) key used has not been read Satisfactory
7. while waiting for towing - bought new car battery..replaced it on the side of the road. --also replaced fob battery - no help- still crank, no start.
8. Car was loaded onto towing truck, delivered at my home, driveway- just for heck of it..tried to start it- and it did start right away no hesitation -
9 . left it runnin gfor few mins - during that time intermitently - started surging rpms then go back to normal just to go bellow normal rpms-
10. started idling normaly- then after a minute or so ....just cut off again - stalled and engine off..
11. attempt to start it - again crank -- no start
12. at least it was in driveway..- checked fuel reset swtich in the back and depressed it few times- no help
13 - disconected both terminals from battery- left it over night - approx 24 h- plugged battery back in- started without hesitation-run on idle normaly for 15 minst - no issued idling- didn't drive it for a risk of cut off again.

i thought it was fuel pump but it doesnt make sense that i can power it up after battery reset..assuming if it's bad fuel pump it won't send fuel regardless.
didn't replace fuel pump relay yet

anyone have any suggestions or similar experience i would appreciate it.


thanks
Aleks

 

[purevw]

500 m? That could be meters or miles. If it's meters, I would question the quality of the fuel. I've been stranded by bad fuel before. One thing I might point out. You believe the vehicle is restarting after a battery reset. Is it possible that rather than that, it is restarting after everything cools off? I ask because you mentioned a brand new battery had no effect. Low battery voltage can prevent an ECM from working, but the new battery should have eliminated that possibility. Many electronics can break down when hot and resume working after cool-down. Also, I had a 98 Mercury that would crank fast but no start. It had 2 large cables to the positive battery terminal. Turns out that one is for the starter and the other is for the rest of the car. The starter was connecting 100%, but the other had a small amount of corrosion. Just cleaning it was the solution. May not be of much help, but it gives a couple of things to consider.

 

[Modelcarguy]

Do you get a traction control turned off warning as well?

 

[chuck s]

My '07 had a short circuit of the wiring at the fuel pump which (almost) left me stranded in the dead of winter miles from home. Engine unexpectedly died at highway speed in cruise control-- felt like the rev limiter on my other car. Side of the road: Would crank but not restart. While waiting for a tow I tried a restart and it worked. Died a couple more times but I was able to finally get home after letting it "rest" a few minutes between episodes. Truck ran many thousand miles afterwards.

-- Chuck

 

[LexpeditionKy]

Here is a known issue with series 3 Expeditions my Goodyear mechanic knew about from fixing so many. He says it's common on Jeeps too. I had repeated no crank issues..new battery, checked neutral safety, computer, ignition switch, no codes, new starter. Towed to several dealers even in different states. All under warranty or extended Ford warranty.

This may be related to states with salt on the road, which my state has. Or near the beach which I do in Florida too.
My non Ford mechanic says "It's the connector on the end of the hot cable where it hooks to the starter."

After months of this the Ford dealer shop goes over some sort of written notes on this..not a TSB....and replaces the entire wire. And at my insistence removes all crud and oxidation there and coats it all in Silicone dielectric grease.. Problem solved!!! It did not need a starter. A new end could have been put on the existing wire. Bozos. So many car repair people these days can only do what diagnostics tells them.

The grease should be reapplied as needed to protect from corrosion. At the battery end make sure those felts with grease are on the terminals.

Note my avatar is being towed for this problem,.

 

[Modelcarguy]

Outstanding!

 

[Johnathan M]

Another thing to consider... I had an 05 Expedition with crank no start. I don't remember if I had codes or not because it was several years ago. But the fuel pump wasn't working. Got a new one and tested it before installing it and it wouldn't work. Replaced it and the new one also wouldn't work. Found out I didn't have ground at the fuel pump connector, but couldn't figure out where the ground was broken, so I grounded it to the frame near the fuel pump connector. Worked great for a while. Eventually left me stranded 15 minutes from home again. Long story short, after doing much research, I found out that the power and ground for the fuel pump goes through a module mounted at the rear of the vehicle, before going to the fuel pump. I can't remember what it's called, but it's mounted on the upper side of the main frame rail on the drivers side behind the rear wheel. They are known to get corrosion inside due to their placement and always getting salt on them in the winter (I'm in PA... lot's of salt on the roads). Figured out it had partially gotten corroded a while back, which broke the ground, and then eventually corroded enough that the power no longer was getting to the fuel pump. Replaced that module and didn't have any more problems. It might be something to look into for your vehicle if you're in an area with salt on the roads in the winter. Hope this helps!