2013 Expedition Long/Hard Crank

[ALEX71]

I am trying to determine what would be causing the hard crank on my expedition. It is a 2013 XLT with 70k miles and other than the transmission leadframe issue, it has been trouble free.

When it started getting cold, i noticed it was taking longer to start. It was cranking 2-5 seconds before it actually starts after sitting for a while. It has gradually gotten worse and is noticeable in the morning now. Then i noticed that after driving it for a while and parking it for an hour or so, it wouldn't start. It had a long extended crank that had to be done twice to start. It fumbles for a second once it does start, but it runs and drives perfect after that.

I am at a lose for what it is. It isn't battery (new) or starter related. I am thinking injector leaking or fuel pump check valve is letting pressure drop. It feeling like it is starved for fuel or to much fuel. I have no codes or check engine lights

 

[mjp2]

Going for the obvious here but when was the last time you checked/changed your air filter?

 

[bobmbx]

I am trying to determine what would be causing the hard crank on my expedition. It is a 2013 XLT with 70k miles and other than the transmission leadframe issue, it has been trouble free.

When it started getting cold, i noticed it was taking longer to start. It was cranking 2-5 seconds before it actually starts after sitting for a while. It has gradually gotten worse and is noticeable in the morning now. Then i noticed that after driving it for a while and parking it for an hour or so, it wouldn't start. It had a long extended crank that had to be done twice to start. It fumbles for a second once it does start, but it runs and drives perfect after that.

I am at a lose for what it is. It isn't battery (new) or starter related. I am thinking injector leaking or fuel pump check valve is letting pressure drop. It feeling like it is starved for fuel or to much fuel. I have no codes or check engine lights

Do this as a test:

When you start it for the first time in the morning, turn the ignition to "Run" position, and let it sit for 15-20 seconds before starting it. Your fuel system may be allowing the fuel pressure to leak down after the pump shuts off. Give the pump some time to get back to operating pressure.

 

[JExpedition07]

Leaky injectors can cause long hard cranks with delayed ignition as well......check into it because injector leak down will eventually waste an engine.

 

[Trainmaster]

The fuel pump has a check valve in it that can hang up. You can check it with a pressure reading on the fuel rail.

 

[ALEX71]

So I turned the key to on for 15 seconds tonight and then started it. It had trouble and fumbled for a second then ran fine. Turning it off and back on again, it starts right away.

Should I pull the fuel rail and visually look for leaking injectors. I can also check pressure on fuel rail tomorrow when I go get a guage. What should I be looking for. How long should it be holding pressure once turned off.

 

[bobmbx]

So I turned the key to on for 15 seconds tonight and then started it. It had trouble and fumbled for a second then ran fine. Turning it off and back on again, it starts right away.

Should I pull the fuel rail and visually look for leaking injectors. I can also check pressure on fuel rail tomorrow when I go get a guage. What should I be looking for. How long should it be holding pressure once turned off.

What engine does it have?

 

[JExpedition07]

2013 is 5.4L 3V Triton

 

[bobmbx]

35 +/- 5 psi

By design, it should hold it forever. There is no facility that depressurizes the system other than the injectors or a leak somewhere. Popping the system open for a fuel filter or hooking up a pressure gage will also do it.

 

[TobyU]

Turn the key on for 5 seconds about 4 times to really prime the fuel system. I had a weak pump in an Excursion that only did it in cold temps. It tool a lot of key turn ons to get fuel up there but it also was 36 foot long limo.

You can also test for injector bleed down by holding pedal to down or even to floor when cranking to see if it starts quicker but you usually smell gas when they leak and flood intake and yours sounds like no fuel is getting to rail early enough.

You can try fuel filter too but it is an overhyped replacement item.
I've been doing this for a long time and I have seen exactly 2 filters that I could't or almost couldn't blow through with my mouth.
Now a mouth (except for maybe certain people with better oral skilsl than I) can only blow about 1.5-2.5 psi SO that's clogged up.
One had noticeable driving issues.

All others I have replaced could be blown through forward and backward with only a little more resistance than the new one.. This can just be the wetting of the filter material.

But fuel filters are always a good idea, just like O2 sesnors, not really need to be replaced like the industry may tell you.

 

[1955moose]

I agree, the filters are so large that in reality you can go 3 times the 30k replacement interval without issue. Unless your fuel is super dirty, it's not going to drop the pressure below 34psi. As far as fuel injectors holding, if you can confirm all else is leak free, then yes an injector is probably leaking. In reality though they need to be removed, and tested individual. You need a fuel testing specialized shop to pressurise and check each one. Most just buy eight new ones when in doubt, it's just easier, and probably cheaper in the long run.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[ALEX71]

Well I don’t see any there to connect a guage to the fuel rail on this engine. Did they really do away with it? Am I just missing it?

 

[1955moose]

A lot of the Expeditions don't have a traditional schrader valve to screw your fuel pressure gauge on to. Most shops use an adapter that Tees into the fuel rail. Check with O'Reilly's or one of the parts stores in your town, they may rent the kit with the adapter. If not you should be able to buy one off a tool truck if you want a good one, or online if quality isn't that much a concern. Your not going to probably use it again for quite a while. I'm sure others here will give their pics and recommendations where to buy.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[TobyU]

You might not really need to see the pressure.
If the pump is weak or its check valve bleeding off then if you cycle the key 6 or seven times and let the pump build up and it firs right up when you crank it then you know the pump is the culprit and not leaking injectors and doesn't really matter what the psi is.
One that's leaking down like mine was can have perfect high pressure ONCE it gets there but take forever to start. So the gauge isn't really that necessary .

 

[LadyLake]

Hi,Had the same problem a couple of months ago and ended with a faulty MAF sensor.Cleaned it first,and it started quickly,then I replaced the sensor.Hope this helps.

 

[TobyU]

I don't think the OP has gotten back with us as to whether it starts normally if you cycle the key on six or seven times before trying.. if this makes a difference then that would rule out sensors like mass air flow Etc.

 

[69charged]

I'm chasing this same thing. Is yours a flex fuel? Mine is and I'm learning that the fuel pump is a full on and intermittent operation. If the fuel pump is going, when the fuel pump is operating in low mode, the fuel pressure drops, which causes the ecu to read a lean condition, so it starts to add fuel trim because it thinks you've put in E85 or some variation of ethanol. As you run it longer it backs that off, but it's still there. I'm looking farther into this and will update if you like. There is a way to bypass the fuel pump control module to run constant all the time, which keeps pressure up, but I'm not sure how yet. Then you have to disconnect the battery and turn in the headlights for at least 10 mins to clear the KAM memory in the ecu so it doesn't go into flex fuel mode again. Sorry for the long winded post, but I hope it helps someone else chasing this.
Clarence