2021 Rear wiper washer fluid leak on front passenger floor board
- Thread starter kryichek
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
5280tunage
Full Access Members
oh my, that sounds fun! you have a 21, still under warranty? granted it may take 2 weeks at the dealer but my concern would be any electronics or modules potentially getting wet and having issues later. Either there's a union down there that's leaking or worse, maybe it was crimped or something during manufacturing. tearing apart the dash will not be fun.
At 52k standard warranty long gone. I do have Premium Care but who knows if this is covered. I'll do some more in-depth looking behind the glove box and hopefully be able to see something. Not looking forward to stupid dealer waiting period just to get a diagnosis.
5280tunage
Full Access Members
My first inclination would be to trace the hoses from the pump and see where they go through the firewall, that would tell you if you even have a chance of getting to it.
OpticonBill
Active Member
Oddly enough, I had this problem on my 97 Eddie Bauer Expedition. Behind the passenger foot well kick plate on the right side is a hose connection for the rear window washing fluid. The pressure the washer pump puts into the hose causes the hose to disconnect.
lurch
Well-Known Member
I had this happen twice when my Expedition was still under factory warranty. This first time, the dealer just put everything back together, and it happened again almost immediately; the 2nd time, they contacted Ford and found out it needed to be glued together and had not been glued correctly when assembled at the factory.
I am having the same problem on my 2021 Expedition MAX Limited. I can clearly see the disconnected hose on the inside of my vehicle in the passenger footwell, however I can't reach/see/feel where it connects to. Removing the glovebox and the fabric/hard cover below the glovebox doesn't allow me to see anything better. How much do I have to take apart to see where it connects and to get it back in there? Where it plugs into the firewall inside the car is what is disconnected. What type of adhesive is best to use? Thanks in advance.
Ok. I did it myself. It is very hard to reach. I removed the door threshold, the glovebox, the under-glovebox hard carpeted cover, the blower fan and motor and floor mats. To remove the under-glovebox hard cover, you have to disconnect the module in there - which is the module that operates the automatic running boards. To remove the three tiny screws holding the blower fan and motor, I had to remove the module mounted to the floor under it. Not sure what that is. I pulled back the carpet to expose the insulation underneath.
Once you have all that out, I was able to reach my hand up between the hard plastic of the heater box and the insulation covering the firewall and feel the nub that the 90 degree fitting plugs into. I was able to push that nub through the firewall. Then my wife held the 90 degree fitting through the firewall hole and I was barely able to get my hand down past the fusebox in the engine bay, put a dab of superglue on the fitting and push the fitting into the nub to make the connection. Then I pushed the nub back into the firewall hole and fix the bushing. IT WOULD BE A LOT EASIER IF THE WAS MORE SLACK IN THE CABIN SIDE HOSE - THAT WAY YOU COULD PULL IT FURTHER INTO THE ENGINE BAY AND CONNECT IT THERE. Sorry, pictures aren't great. The nub is shown at the end of the red arrow in the first photo taken with my borescope. The second photo is in the engine bay looking at the fitting past the fusebox. The third photo shows the blower fan motor removed and the red arrow pointing to where you have to reach to feel that nub.
Good luck. You can do it. We will see how long it lasts.
It took me so long to do (about 2 hours) the car didn't start when I tried to test everything. Recommend disconnecting the battery after you have the running board out. It is a great seat while you do all this.
Once you have all that out, I was able to reach my hand up between the hard plastic of the heater box and the insulation covering the firewall and feel the nub that the 90 degree fitting plugs into. I was able to push that nub through the firewall. Then my wife held the 90 degree fitting through the firewall hole and I was barely able to get my hand down past the fusebox in the engine bay, put a dab of superglue on the fitting and push the fitting into the nub to make the connection. Then I pushed the nub back into the firewall hole and fix the bushing. IT WOULD BE A LOT EASIER IF THE WAS MORE SLACK IN THE CABIN SIDE HOSE - THAT WAY YOU COULD PULL IT FURTHER INTO THE ENGINE BAY AND CONNECT IT THERE. Sorry, pictures aren't great. The nub is shown at the end of the red arrow in the first photo taken with my borescope. The second photo is in the engine bay looking at the fitting past the fusebox. The third photo shows the blower fan motor removed and the red arrow pointing to where you have to reach to feel that nub.
Good luck. You can do it. We will see how long it lasts.
It took me so long to do (about 2 hours) the car didn't start when I tried to test everything. Recommend disconnecting the battery after you have the running board out. It is a great seat while you do all this.
