30" light bar installed!

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lefty hack

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On this thread there are a lot of good pics and text to get you through it. However my pics might show a few other details. I had to make a few simple mods to the side mounted mounting bracket. I drilled out the small hole to allow for flipping the bracket which gave me the ability to mount it on the plastic brace behind the upper part of the bumper. I’m still working the details of getting the switch through the firewall… I know there are people way better at me on here that have done it . Thanks in advance
Side note I just ordered the raptor grill. I will clean up the wiring around he head light when I install that. However its really not noticeable unless you know its there.
 

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lefty hack

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Side note I just ordered the raptor grill. I will clean up the wiring around he head light when I install that. However its really not noticeable unless you know its there.
raptor grill canceled… seller contacted me and said bc of the pandemic he can’t send it “for a while” ‍♂️
 

Beachums

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Just a thought for those dreading running wires though the firewall...and wondering about "ignition on" only. For those that really want the DRL function, move along.
On the several vehicles I've owned (even a Super Duty equipped with upfitter switches) over the years, the most functional way to utilize these on-road is to use a relay and use the high beam wire to trigger the relay. I can't think of a scenario when I wouldn't want my high beams on with the aux-lights and visa-versa.
If anything, I would mount a switch inside the cab that essentially allows you to "arm" the relay. This would give you the choice of keeping the lights off and still use the high-beams.
But for general use, "flash to pass" and good ole inciting a road-rage incident, you can't deny the efficiency of the switch within your turn signal stalk...
 

lefty hack

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I went though the firewall just above the accelerator. Poked a hole to piggyback on the bundle and put silicone around it to seal it.
 

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lefty hack

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First, I want to thank everyone for adding their pieces to this, sure does help a lot and it's productive help!

I undertook this process today, was assuming it would be a two day project, first day take it apart, mount the light, the put it all back, then on day two wire everything. But it actually went a little faster than I thought, and unfortunately once you get some of this done, its kind of impossible to stop.

With that, I have included a few picture in case they help anyone else, and I'll give a few notes from my experience. I actually found the removal of the cover to be pretty easier, far easier than my previous vehicles (which also kind of scares me with this enormous $1K cover). The worst part was the wiring harness, I ended up popping it off of it's mount, so I could get to the tabs better. What a pain.

Once I got the cover off, mounting the light wasn't too bad. I relocated the temp sensor to about 1.5" below it's initial spot. This did mean that I had to tug on the wires/loom a bit but it worked out well. It's just about centered now between the bottom of the light and the cover. To mount mine, I ended up buying all stainless hardware from my local Ace, as the stuff that was included wouldn't really fit. I had to use the brackets inside out for things to line up. I also used nylon insert nuts to help ensure this thing wouldn't loosen as much over time.

That's when things got a little rough, for one, getting that massive twist on wire connector through anything in there was a pain, I finally loosened up the Left headlight mounts a bit, so I could squeeze it through a slot in the louver assembly, towards the top right (looking at it) there was a small section of foam insulation, managed to get it through there. But that took some work! I then mounted it under the headlight assembly to keep it from rattling.

Then I attached the wire assembly, and ran that across the engine bay, over the master cylinder, over the engine, to the battery area. That wasn't bad, found a perfect place to mount the relay. But then, I spent a good 1-1.5hrs trying to get the wires through the firewall. I started by trying to push an insulated 12GA piece of wire from the inside, through the grommet, but that wouldn't work, I then tried going from the engine compartment, through to the interior and that didn't work. Even after cutting off the cable ties, the bend they have these wires at, and the way the grommet sleeve was crimped down, meant I couldn't get anything to go through there. So I ended up carefully drilling a 1/4" hole through the rubber outer section of the grommet, and was finally able to get some wires through. I didn't use the Rough Country surface mount switch, to me it looked kind of janky for such a nice light, so I pre-ordered several LED push button style switches, and settled on the one in the photo, the blue goes well with the interior lighting I'm using. Oh, and I did use a switched circuity inside, so that my signal wire will only come on when the vehicle is on, just a personal preference.

One thing that worries me a little, is how hard it was to get the screw back in place below the ford emblem, unfortunately if I had it to do again, I would probably add some 1/4" or 1/2" spacers in the brackets to lower the light a tad, that would make it easier to get that screw in/out. To get it in, I had to kind of pry my socket extension between the light housing and the bumper cover, really made me nervous, but getting it out will be even harder.

All in all, probably spent about 5 hours of actual time. Not too bad, nothing like engine/suspension work, etc.

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Where did you get that button. It’s so much better than what the light bar comes with. Thanks
 

5280tunage

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Where did you get that button. It’s so much better than what the light bar comes with. Thanks
Amazon - ASIN B071H9KWL6

Works great! Remember though, used mine with a relay under the hood, and grabbed +12V switched from the HSWM to supply the button, closing the relay. I know some want there's to be always available, i wanted to make sure mine were switched.
 

lefty hack

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Amazon - ASIN B071H9KWL6

Works great! Remember though, used mine with a relay under the hood, and grabbed +12V switched from the HSWM to supply the button, closing the relay. I know some want there's to be always available, i wanted to make sure mine were switched.
Thanks 5280tunage. Much cleaner.
 

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