Bedrck47
Full Access Members
sounds like either you are not making good contact at fuse 30 as that is what feeds the diode. or you have bad contacts at the pcm diode.
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99 EB 5.4, crank/no start - help!
- Thread starter dd350
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stamp11127
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The next step would be to verify the CJB is providing 12v on that circuit. The wire colors are red/light green - see attached pdf.
Circuit 16 is highlighted in red.
After the CJB there are two splices and one connector to deal with later.
You can use sewing needles to probe the connectors without piercing the wiring insulation.
Circuit 16 is highlighted in red.
After the CJB there are two splices and one connector to deal with later.
You can use sewing needles to probe the connectors without piercing the wiring insulation.
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Bedrck47
Full Access Members
Pic #1 is of the back of the fuse block The connector on the left is the one you need to be concerned with. The connector that is closest to the brake pedal.
Pic #2 shows the wires on the connector. You first must loosen the bolt that holds the connector in place and then pull the connector away from the fuse block and then remove the cover to expose the wires.
Pic #3 shows the wire that you need to check.
NOTE. Has any work been done on the fuse block prior to your problems??
I would also try to tighten the connector FIRST in case it is loose and not making good contact. Then check for voltage at the PCM diode. If still no voltage then you will need to remove the connector and start your checks.
Once you remove the connector check for any signs of corrosion on the connector and also on the pins in the fuse block. You may need to use a good light and mirror to look at the fuse block.
It is a tight area to work in so be careful and take your time Also DO NOT force the connector either when removing or re-installing.
Pic #2 shows the wires on the connector. You first must loosen the bolt that holds the connector in place and then pull the connector away from the fuse block and then remove the cover to expose the wires.
Pic #3 shows the wire that you need to check.
NOTE. Has any work been done on the fuse block prior to your problems??
I would also try to tighten the connector FIRST in case it is loose and not making good contact. Then check for voltage at the PCM diode. If still no voltage then you will need to remove the connector and start your checks.
Once you remove the connector check for any signs of corrosion on the connector and also on the pins in the fuse block. You may need to use a good light and mirror to look at the fuse block.
It is a tight area to work in so be careful and take your time Also DO NOT force the connector either when removing or re-installing.
Attachments
Thanks guys, and happy new year!
No work had been done on the fuse block prior to my problems, this all happened suddenly.
It's cold, dark and raining or snowing here most of the time this time of year, so I don't have many favorable opportunities to go up there and check things out. I'll give Circuit 16 a look at some point in the next few days.
No work had been done on the fuse block prior to my problems, this all happened suddenly.
It's cold, dark and raining or snowing here most of the time this time of year, so I don't have many favorable opportunities to go up there and check things out. I'll give Circuit 16 a look at some point in the next few days.
Bedrck47
Full Access Members
Look at the print stamp posted You could pull off one of the coil connectors and make a check for 12 volts at the RD/LG wire of the coil connector If no voltage then you need to start tracing the circuit I would suspect the S116 splice. That's just my opinion
Bedrck47
Full Access Members
Just a little bit of advice Don't tell the Dealership that you can't stress enough that you DONT have a FUEL PROBLEM and That you have a PCM PROBLEM. In other words you would be best to say nothing other than it won't start
Your last bit of testing you have proven you problem is fuel related
Your last bit of testing you have proven you problem is fuel related
I told them the whole story and said bottom line was, I knew that the PCM relay circuit was dead and I didn't know why. Bedrck47 you'll be very disappointed to learn that it was the #30 circuit, the fuse terminals were loose and not making good contact. They said after that it fired right up and is running great. I'm picking it up tonight after work. $176 well spent.
Thanks again to all who offered words of advice and support, much appreciated, especially Stamp and Bedrck47!
David D
Thanks again to all who offered words of advice and support, much appreciated, especially Stamp and Bedrck47!
David D
stamp11127
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I vaguely remember someone mentioning that circuit highlighted in red in a pdf.....
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Bedrck47
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I am not disappointed But I am glad that you learned a lesson. The next time you turn to the forum for help from people that know the circuits I hope you have your head out of your *** and don't make a statement about stressing that you had a PCM problem and nothing else matter until that got fixed.
I believe that from the very beginning you were advised that you had a fuel related problem But you insisted that wasn't your problem.
To semi quote Stamp I clearly remember saying "My money is on Fuse #30" See post #33 in the thread and also see post # 41. But the best post of all was # 4 Had you check for fuel pressure as asked You would have saved over a month of searching for the problem. But as I said to you earlier you had your mind set on something else being the problem.
The only thing I am disappointed in is that you turned to the forum for help but you wouldn't listen You could have had this problem solved for free had you listened but in the end you listened to the dealership and PAID to have it fixed.
Last bit of FREE advice . Get rid of your useless Haynes Manual and get The Ford Factory Workshop Manual. That is the manual that both Stamp and I use and that is the BIBLE for fixing these expys
I believe that from the very beginning you were advised that you had a fuel related problem But you insisted that wasn't your problem.
To semi quote Stamp I clearly remember saying "My money is on Fuse #30" See post #33 in the thread and also see post # 41. But the best post of all was # 4 Had you check for fuel pressure as asked You would have saved over a month of searching for the problem. But as I said to you earlier you had your mind set on something else being the problem.
The only thing I am disappointed in is that you turned to the forum for help but you wouldn't listen You could have had this problem solved for free had you listened but in the end you listened to the dealership and PAID to have it fixed.
Last bit of FREE advice . Get rid of your useless Haynes Manual and get The Ford Factory Workshop Manual. That is the manual that both Stamp and I use and that is the BIBLE for fixing these expys
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Yes, and I was right that it was a PCM problem and not a fuel problem. Stamp was right about Fuse 30 but I checked it, rechecked it, and tested it and could find nothing wrong with it, didn't know what else to do. Last thing I wanted to have to do was to have it towed to the dealer and pay them to fix it, but I had futzed around with it long enough and had a pressing need to use it, and just couldn't wait any longer. I had accepted that it might very well be something stupid, but I'd reached the end of my tether with it and threw in the towel. I really don't regret it, because the extent to which we had been able to narrow it down here helped the dealer pinpoint their troubleshooting efforts and resolve it much faster and more cost-effectively than without the benefit of that knowledge -- and I've got a running Expy again. 
Bedrck47
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Get you head back to where the sun shines The pcm and the pcm relay and diode are two different things Without the PCM RELAY AND DIODE you had no fuel pump thus fuel pressure and you had no power for the COPS and Injectors. YOU problem was fuel related
So as you say if it was a PCM problem then why do you still have the same PCM in it.
The one thing that you really didn't know was that stamp and I work together and we share information and either one of us my give that information out.
Again get your head back to where the sun shines, your problem was with a bad fuse connection and NOT THE PCM
If you go back and look at your testing methods You never checked for voltage thru the fuses until I suggested it to you. Your troubleshooting shills are lacking and your attitude leaves a lot to be desired when someone is trying to help you.
Stamp and I spent a lot of time and effort in trying to help you and in the beginning you just didn't want to listen and had your mind set that it was a PCM PROBLEM AND NOTHING ELSE MATTER UNTIL THAT WAS FIXED . But funny, the dealership fixed the problem with the fuse and it started right up and you still insist you had a PCM problem.
I know I learned a lesson from your problem and that is to walk away from people like you
I only hope you also learned a lesson and that is to listen to people that are trying to help you and keep an open mind to those that know more than you do.
As stared in the past Burn your Haynes Manual and get the Ford manual on DVD
So as you say if it was a PCM problem then why do you still have the same PCM in it.
The one thing that you really didn't know was that stamp and I work together and we share information and either one of us my give that information out.
Again get your head back to where the sun shines, your problem was with a bad fuse connection and NOT THE PCM
If you go back and look at your testing methods You never checked for voltage thru the fuses until I suggested it to you. Your troubleshooting shills are lacking and your attitude leaves a lot to be desired when someone is trying to help you.
Stamp and I spent a lot of time and effort in trying to help you and in the beginning you just didn't want to listen and had your mind set that it was a PCM PROBLEM AND NOTHING ELSE MATTER UNTIL THAT WAS FIXED . But funny, the dealership fixed the problem with the fuse and it started right up and you still insist you had a PCM problem.
I know I learned a lesson from your problem and that is to walk away from people like you
I only hope you also learned a lesson and that is to listen to people that are trying to help you and keep an open mind to those that know more than you do.
As stared in the past Burn your Haynes Manual and get the Ford manual on DVD
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Bedrck47
Full Access Members
One of the problems was that you were unwilling to get a fuel pressure reading. Had you did that and found you had no pressure it would have aided in helping us to look at the voltage and we would have determined that the lack of voltage would have pointed to fuse #30 much sooner than we did.
Another problem is your on the West coast Stamp is in the South and I am on the East coast. The lack of information that you provide made it hard to get to the root of you problem But the biggest part of the problem was you and your mind set.
Another problem is your on the West coast Stamp is in the South and I am on the East coast. The lack of information that you provide made it hard to get to the root of you problem But the biggest part of the problem was you and your mind set.
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Mediamonkey11
Well-Known Member
Just curious, but what dealer did you tow it to? I'm in Seattle as well and would love to know if there's one nearby that actually does honest work!
Bedrck47
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