popeye
Active Member
The main beams are not working? If i pull the lever towards me the flash main beams work? So its not the bulbs, anyone have any ideas? All other lights are working.
99 expy main beams
- Thread starter popeye
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
FordandPolaris
Full Access Members
Check the fuses. I know my 97 has a fuse for the headlamps, but also has a fuse for the high beams. Check your owners manual to see which fuse slot is the right one (mine is #8 on the under-hood box). I imagine the 99 is the same, but small things like that may have changed. If you dont have an owners manual, use this...
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
Other than that, I am not sure what would be causing the problem other than possibly a bad headlight switch?
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
Other than that, I am not sure what would be causing the problem other than possibly a bad headlight switch?
SkyJumper
Full Access Members
Sounds like to me you have a closed circuit path for the low beams, or a bad light switch.
popeye
Active Member
After further examination I have no low beams or high beams, just flash high beams, Day time running lights are working. Could this be the light switch on the dash? Fuses all look ok. #16 high beam, #26 low beam right, #28 low beam left and under hood #3 healamps / auto lamps. Fog lamps are working.
Last edited:
Look ok? Did you put a test light to both sides with the switch in its respective spots, or ohm out the fuse itself?
Check the under hood fuses, wanting to say there should be a relay
Flash high is se.ding voltage down both legs of bulb, dual filament so its a 3 wire plug, grnd, high and low.
Got running lights ? (park lights), gauge cluster lights?
If yes to both I'm voting a multi function switch (blinked arm itself.)
Couple ways to.test this theory
A jumper wire,
A test light
Or the good old throw parts at the problem fix.
I'd use a combo of the first two. If your able to get the shroud off from around the.column, based off most Ford's the plug on the top is blinkers and hazards (might be two seprrat plugs)
Break out the test light and a pad and pen. Go around sticking the test light in the back of the.plug til it contacts the rear of the terminal. Operate the the multi function switch (mfs from now on). Right now what wire gets power to it with each function.
You should have a constant power as well as. Ground, these test are key on btw,
When it comes to the wipers it wire will probablybmake the bulb light up brighter as you turn it up because the wiper.switch is both a variable resistor and a time function. Anyways
Or Gould note the wire.colors at the bulbs and pray to everything holy that they are.the same at the msf.
When you find that you have.several dead wires (make sure you checked.washer.spray to)
Make a jumper with a inline fuse (start out with a low amp fuse just incase your.wrong, but rated for the circuit your testing works fine to) Jump power to those in the terminals with the plug unplugged, now your bypassing the.switch, if they come on in high and low respectively on diff wires. Your switch is bad, if they don't well then...
You can do the same with the headlight switch.
The headlight switch handles the current but msf transfer the power where it needs to go, ie high or low.
High flash isn't used a lot so the.circuit within the switch rarely ever deteriorates. Each time a switch is thrown, befoe it contacts physically an arc of electricty "jumps", when this happens it burns the contact depositing carbon. Eventually there is no longer a surface for it have continuity. That's how most switches "die"
Be careful, if its over your head, get a diagram, or just get the part and try it out, wat are returns for otherwise?
Side note you may and probably will haft to remove the steering will to.get to the bottom bolt of the mfs
When I get to work ill thumb through one of our books and see if I can get a wire color for you, no promises though it'll be from an econoline, you'd be suprised howbmuch is the same from model to model from a manufacturer
Anthony
sent from my mind via of telepathy
Check the under hood fuses, wanting to say there should be a relay
Flash high is se.ding voltage down both legs of bulb, dual filament so its a 3 wire plug, grnd, high and low.
Got running lights ? (park lights), gauge cluster lights?
If yes to both I'm voting a multi function switch (blinked arm itself.)
Couple ways to.test this theory
A jumper wire,
A test light
Or the good old throw parts at the problem fix.
I'd use a combo of the first two. If your able to get the shroud off from around the.column, based off most Ford's the plug on the top is blinkers and hazards (might be two seprrat plugs)
Break out the test light and a pad and pen. Go around sticking the test light in the back of the.plug til it contacts the rear of the terminal. Operate the the multi function switch (mfs from now on). Right now what wire gets power to it with each function.
You should have a constant power as well as. Ground, these test are key on btw,
When it comes to the wipers it wire will probablybmake the bulb light up brighter as you turn it up because the wiper.switch is both a variable resistor and a time function. Anyways
Or Gould note the wire.colors at the bulbs and pray to everything holy that they are.the same at the msf.
When you find that you have.several dead wires (make sure you checked.washer.spray to)
Make a jumper with a inline fuse (start out with a low amp fuse just incase your.wrong, but rated for the circuit your testing works fine to) Jump power to those in the terminals with the plug unplugged, now your bypassing the.switch, if they come on in high and low respectively on diff wires. Your switch is bad, if they don't well then...
You can do the same with the headlight switch.
The headlight switch handles the current but msf transfer the power where it needs to go, ie high or low.
High flash isn't used a lot so the.circuit within the switch rarely ever deteriorates. Each time a switch is thrown, befoe it contacts physically an arc of electricty "jumps", when this happens it burns the contact depositing carbon. Eventually there is no longer a surface for it have continuity. That's how most switches "die"
Be careful, if its over your head, get a diagram, or just get the part and try it out, wat are returns for otherwise?
Side note you may and probably will haft to remove the steering will to.get to the bottom bolt of the mfs
When I get to work ill thumb through one of our books and see if I can get a wire color for you, no promises though it'll be from an econoline, you'd be suprised howbmuch is the same from model to model from a manufacturer
Anthony
sent from my mind via of telepathy
popeye
Active Member
Thanks for all the great information guys. Anyway changed out the mfs and still the same. Let me explain exactly what is happening. No lights at all when using the headlight switch without the ignition on, the headlight switch doesnt even illuminate. When the key is turned and the switch is turned i get parking lights all rear lights dash lights etc. fogs will only work with the engine running same as drl's.
Last edited:
popeye
Active Member
Threw a part at it. Will do the tests this weekend {graveyard shift worker}
popeye
Active Member
Sorry for the delay, I finally got it fixed and it was the headlight switch. Thanks for all the help
