ABS Brake system codes/ on & off

[cindy]

Hi. I have a 2013 Exp EL with 200K miles. Runs great but the ABS/ Check BRake system/ Traction control lights come on then go off intermittently. There is no new ABS module parts to be found, so I'm looking into a used part. But one other thing that has happened is the brake switch that allows the shifter to move out of park also doesn't work intermittently and I'm wondering if the two problems could be connected?
What would make the ABS warning lights go on & off? I would think if the module is no good that the lights would stay on?? Thoughts? Love this car but don't want to spend thousands to keep it going. Right now it runs great.

 

[BigOleFordFan]

Based on my previous experiences with the ABS issue (albeit on different vehicles) AFAIK, there are 5 most common problems that will cause the ABS light to come on:

A) Bad or worn wheel bearings
B) Bad or worn wheel hubs
C) Bad wheel speed sensors
D) Worn brake pads and/or calipers
E) Worn tires, or tires need to be rotated, balanced & aligned

or any combination of the above....but there could be others, like a failing relay or whatnot...

For the brake switch, on some vehicles, there is a small wiring harness under the trim piece that goes around the shifter handle whose connectors can come loose, degrade or in some cases, begin to melt away....normally the harness itself is relatively cheap ($30-50) and replacement labor should run about $100, depending on who you have do it....

My son had his local stealership replace it on his '18 Cherokee and that's about what it cost.....

I don't know for sure, but I doubt the 2 issues are related....

Please post back with whatever you find out is causing the problem(s), so others will know what to look for

 

[JamaicaJoe]

Hi. I have a 2013 Exp EL with 200K miles. Runs great but the ABS/ Check BRake system/ Traction control lights come on then go off intermittently. There is no new ABS module parts to be found, so I'm looking into a used part. But one other thing that has happened is the brake switch that allows the shifter to move out of park also doesn't work intermittently and I'm wondering if the two problems could be connected?
What would make the ABS warning lights go on & off? I would think if the module is no good that the lights would stay on?? Thoughts? Love this car but don't want to spend thousands to keep it going. Right now it runs great.

Best to have the codes read. Auto parts stores will do this for you. Bring a note pad and write them down or take pictures. Please report what you find. Mine (2013) is a light show and message center flashing all the related advancetrack, brakes ABS, traction control. I have a sole B1342 code . I may have bought the last new ABS brain ECU module on the planet. I am going to troubleshoot and probably swap the new module (needs VIN programming) and retain the core for future.

 

[Limoguy25]

In the case of a faulty brake module, there are competent rebuilders. Figure in the neighborhood of $200.

 

[cindy]

Geez, I was quoted $600 for a used part!

 

[JamaicaJoe]

Geez, I was quoted $600 for a used part!

I would try either to have your existing module repaired, often a cold solder joint inside. Or buy an OEM new part from e-bay seller. I got mine (2013 XLT) from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/236245625311 . It will require a shop or dealer to program the VIN to make it work in your vehicle.

There is a core charge embedded in the price. You can get back $100 (I think) by returning the old. I have not installed mine yet, it was new in OEM packaging. I will probably keep the old core for future since I plan to keep the vehicle for another decade or hopefully more.

Be sure to locate the part number on your unit. I took a camera with flash underneath the bumper drivers side and took pictures.

The part number of the replacement should be similar. The first couple of digits may differ as the original as factory installed and OEM replacement are slightly different PN's in those first digits.

You should do a bit of homework searching for part number on dealer sites by VIN and then see what substitutes. Do same on seller e-bay page.

Also usually you are buying only the electronic control module which bolts onto the hydraulics pump/motor. If you have a very high mileage vehicle you might need both. But the codes generally are for failures of the electronic module or wheel sensors.