2-4 ohms is in the normal range; I've read that a bad squib (open) will read ~25 ohms, not zero.
Airbag light on 2008 Expedition XLT
- Thread starter Rob Adams
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Rob Adams
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Can you elaborate on the "bad squib" thing? what is that? Something inside the airbag or is that in the clockspring? I called up my local ford stealer-ship and they said 139 for the diagnostic.
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The short explanation:
A squib is small explosive charge that initiates a larger explosive charge. Its basically a fuze that explodes. In the airbag, its what those wires are connected to.
Rob Adams
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OK so It sounds like I need to bite the bullet and run through the pinpoint test to narrow this down at this point. I found a guide to build a 2ohm airbag test adapter to rule out the airbag itself.
I don't "think" it's the clockspring as the horn and cruise control work but at this point I'm just going to have to start ruling things out.
1955moose
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Sounds like you should do 2 things. #1, get a repair CD for your vehicle, and #2, read up on all precautions to not somehow activate the airbag. That would not be pretty. Your dealing with an explosion type device, you need to know how it detanates, or more importantly, how not to.
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Rob Adams
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The airbag itself is completely disconnected and out of the vehicle. I'm not concerned about detonating it at this point. I have extensively read on how to de-power and properly remove airbag components. I consider myself a fairly versed shade tree Ford tech, However I do appreciate your concern regarding that. I am definitely in the more advanced repair/troubleshooting stages with this and will use the utmost caution.
I can test the circuit using a 2Ohm resistor plugged into where the airbag goes ultimately tricking the computer into thinking the airbag is plugged in and functioning (pretty standard hack for modders who change steering wheels and seats) Tf the harness, clockspring, etc is good the computer should read back ~2-4 ohms and therefore would indicate the airbag itself is bad. If no change it's likely something in the wiring harness/RCM. Currently the circuit reads 26 ohms so thats definitely not right.
1955moose
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Sorry Rob, wasn't questioning your mechanic skills, it's just that in 4 plus years on the forum, I haven't seen an air bag issue, and wanted you to be safe. I myself don't have the specs you'll need for your troubleshooting of the air bag system. I'm sure one of our electrical system experts can or will chime in with diagnostic procedure. Good luck, as always follow up with your findings.
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Rob Adams
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OH no problem. I really do appreciate you bothering to take the time to caution me! You can never be too careful with the airbag system. I just didn't want anyone to think I was just going in and doing things without careful planning. Fords are a passion of mine and I keep a fleet of family trucks running. At times I feel I should have not gone into it but instead been a certified Ford mechanic! However I'm not above asking for help and taking direction. The people on this forum have been hugely helpful!
1955moose
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Their should be a troubleshooting procedure on all data, if you don't want to buy the Ford repair CD. If one of your shop buddies will let you use his/her computer with their account. If not eBay people sell the CD for under $20.00.
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Rob Adams
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Bit of a bonehead mistake I made last night while troubleshooting my wiring harness...I dropped the Transceiver piece that reads the key chip and it exploded all over the garage floor...damn those things are fragile...I packed all the fine antenna wire back in the device in hope that it would just work but to no avail and now the truck won't start due to the PATS system thinking I tampered with the transceiver. Shop manual says I "shouldnt" have to reprogram the PATS as its just the transceiver that reads the key chip. Stealership wants 45 bucks for the part so thats not too bad. downside is that none have the part in stock and no wrecking yards have my generation expedition to go scavenge. Guess I'm kinda SOL for now.
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