Are the cats why I have no engine power?

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Prince_Polaris

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[This is a 2003 Expedition, with the 5.4L V8]

Okay, remember my complaint a while ago about spark plugs? Yeah, that wasn't the problem with my performance. What happened with those was:

Mechanic number 1 fixed vacuum line, and didn't put on the new one correctly.

Mechanic number 2 fixed the air flow sensor and the vacuum line, but broke the clip on cylinder 1's spark plug

Mechanic number 3 fixed the clip, and yay, no more misfires!


But I still have sucky engine power. Now, I can't even hit 70 while flooring it on the highway, I can put the pedal as far down as possible and the poor thing will be struggling so hard and I'm just barely managing 64.

A week or so ago I finally got a CEL code and the mechanic (unrelated to the three above) figured out it was either an O2 sensor or the catylic converters. So, we swapped out the O2 sensor, the cheaper of the two.

Didn't work.

Now I'm finding out that replacing the cats is gonna be about a thousand for either side, and I sure can't afford that. So, These are my options:

Option A: Somehow find cheap enough replacement cats and have it done properly

Option B: Have the cats removed, but I really, really don't want to have my check engine light on all the time because I won't know when something else is wrong. I'm told that I could remove the downstream cats and keep the upstream ones (which are enough to prevent a CEL) but does this work on a 2003? (I read that solution on a post about a 2000 expy)

Option C: Could it be something other than the cat? It idles rough, it has no power at high speed, the MPG is horrible, but the engine doesn't get hot, which I'm told is supposed to happen when the cats are dying.

Also, it's ticking, but the mechanic who read my code says that it's a normal thing for my engine. Is he right...? I could take a video of what it sounds like if you guys want.

(Oh, one last thing, I also need to fix my door ajar sensors, do you guys have a guide on that? It's pretty annoying going down the road to the tune of DING, DING, DING, DING... DING.... DING, DING, DING.... DING)
 

1955moose

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I think we covered this before , but here goes. 1st thing get a 4th mechanic that's worth a damn! Really 3 boneheads just to get to this point! With all this time misfiring, it's probably a catalytic converter or 2. But first do a running fuel pressure test. Be sure your in tank fuel pump is up to *****. 28-45 running pressure is where you want to be. I posted a how to article earlier this week on a simple exaust flow test, I think it was If your using a digital heat gauge, the outlet of each cat should be about 100 degrees cooler than the inlet. Some members here have gutted out 1 or more cats to get flow again. The longer you run your SUV like this, the worse their going to get.

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Prince_Polaris

Prince_Polaris

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I think we covered this before , but here goes. 1st thing get a 4th mechanic that's worth a damn! Really 3 boneheads just to get to this point! With all this time misfiring, it's probably a catalytic converter or 2. But first do a running fuel pressure test. Be sure your in tank fuel pump is up to *****. 28-45 running pressure is where you want to be. I posted a how to article earlier this week on a simple exaust flow test, I think it was If your using a digital heat gauge, the outlet of each cat should be about 100 degrees cooler than the inlet. Some members here have gutted out 1 or more cats to get flow again. The longer you run your SUV like this, the worse their going to get.

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You think it's the cats sucking away my performance? And yeah, it took three people to fix the misfiring! >:C

Could you give me the link to your guide on pressure testing? And I really should get a digital heat gauge! Those would be useful for computers too :)
 

1955moose

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You might not have the screw on Schrader valve for the fuel pressure test. Some years do, others have a T connection that you have to temporarily plumb in. Any digital heat gun will work for checking your exaust, or you can have an exaust shop in your area do a back pressure test. I think I paid around $30.00 years back for my heat gun .The fuel pressure gauge setup you can rent for free from O'Reilly's or AutoZone. You can Google how to do both tests.

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Prince_Polaris

Prince_Polaris

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You might not have the screw on Schrader valve for the fuel pressure test. Some years do, others have a T connection that you have to temporarily plumb in. Any digital heat gun will work for checking your exaust, or you can have an exaust shop in your area do a back pressure test. I think I paid around $30.00 years back for my heat gun .The fuel pressure gauge setup you can rent for free from O'Reilly's or AutoZone. You can Google how to do both tests.

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I might have to get them do the test, because nope, I don't got a Schrader valve :(

You think it's the cats, though? Like, is the ticking sound actually normal? At least it sure isn't that nasty clattering that my poor explorer's timing chain was making lol
 

TobyU

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Are you sure there is no screw on valve? I am almost certain our 2000 has it bur maybe it was an 03+ thing.
 

Adieu

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Aren't there places that sell cats for like $99 or $199 with trade-in or rebuild yours in low income neighborhoods in your state?

Around here they're all over the place

Seems like cats cost a bunch in materials but are quite recyclable or something, even after they stop working
 

1955moose

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In this repair forum we try not to guess. That's why you or a shop tests items first. What if one of our members said definitely change the cat's, and that's not your problem.You'd be pretty pissed off. Your a computer tech, whenever possible, don't you diagnose a non working unit? Sure hope so!

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Prince_Polaris

Prince_Polaris

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Well, haha, I think it's the cats. Expy decided he was going to throw one of the rear spark plugs out of itself, so since my insurance came with towing, he's at the mechanic and he'll be seen on Monday. All I did was try to start it, and POP!

IMG_20190503_1353160.jpg


IMG_20190503_1359358.jpg
 
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Prince_Polaris

Prince_Polaris

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It's quite an experience being able to pull a spark plug out of your engine without any tools or disassembly, I just pulled 'er right on out of there, as far as I know the plug is still sitting in the cupholder! At least it came out in one piece...
 

Adieu

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Well, haha, I think it's the cats. Expy decided he was going to throw one of the rear spark plugs out of itself, so since my insurance came with towing, he's at the mechanic and he'll be seen on Monday. All I did was try to start it, and POP!

IMG_20190503_1353160.jpg


IMG_20190503_1359358.jpg


One of the downsides of DIY work, or another one of the three stooges mechanics' masterpieces?
 
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Prince_Polaris

Prince_Polaris

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One of the downsides of DIY work, or another one of the three stooges mechanics' masterpieces?

Nope, it wasn't the sparkplug that mechanic #3 had to tie down cause #2 broke the clip! It was one of the rear ones...
 

CaptOchs

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When I did the exhaust on my 2003 5.4, I replaced the CATs and everything back. It was time. I went with the Walker Exhaust because I don't want to go nuts on an truck that is so old. I want to say parts were like $600-$700 and it was another $350 to put it in. That included an oxygen sensor that snapped off. Performance isthe same. I tow a 7000 lb camper. I looked up the part numbers at their site and ordered them off Amazon or Ebay. http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/walker-exhaust-systems/e-catalog-lookup The cats are "federal EPA" so they are not compliant with California CARB. Not a problem unless you plan on selling your truck to someone in CA someday. NY requires CARB if the vehicle was originally equipped. Most NYS inspection stations don't care. Technically, my truck could fail.

I had a bad passenger side door sensor too. That drove me nuts with the ding and lights coming on. The cheapest sensor I found at the time was $45 for that sensor. I thought the hell with that. I created a jumper wire and bridged the two pins of the harness. I taped it up really good so it didn't fall out. The only downsides are when you open the passenger door the lights don't come on. Also, if the door isn't shut properly it doesn't warn you. Oh well.
 
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Prince_Polaris

Prince_Polaris

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So! Turns out a good bit of my power loss has to do with Cylinder 1 having 50psi of compression instead of 100psi. Anyone got a 2003 5.4L Triton V8 for about $600?


I might as well never buy a car again, I overpaid on a 98 explorer that proceeded to have way-too-expensive-to-fix timing chain problems after a year, and now my expedition, after one year, the fancy vehicle that was supposed to be good, needs a whole new engine that I can certainly afford with the $600 I have saved, right?


What next, I buy a car and it just explodes after 1 year of owning it?
 

the bus

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http://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

This site saved me a few times instead of using a u-pull it lot. You maybe able to find an engine there or any other parts you need.

Or maybe someone knows one of those old school fixes to get the compression up with some snake oil or rebuild in a can. Or higher weight oil??
If you still can go 70 your still good!!
 
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Prince_Polaris

Prince_Polaris

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http://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

This site saved me a few times instead of using a u-pull it lot. You maybe able to find an engine there or any other parts you need.

Or maybe someone knows one of those old school fixes to get the compression up with some snake oil or rebuild in a can. Or higher weight oil??
If you still can go 70 your still good!!

At this point, it seems like I'll never actually be able to go 70 uphill in my expy ever again, lol

And thanks for the site, I'll look at it!
 

1955moose

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Actually normal compression should be around 140-150 psi for all eight cylinders in your SUV. Sorry to hear your problem is so severe. Bummer buddy. Now you see what I was talking about in my earlier post about cats. Are you having any top end noise? Most common problems are a worn rocker, or stuck lifter. Either way, you or the shop would have to determine if your compression loss is a valve or bad rings. Here's a Hail Mary pass you can try. Pour about 16 oz of Marvel mystery oil in your oil. If you have sticky rings, or something stuck in the top end, it might bust it loose. Again it's very doubtful it will work, but what have you got to lose. You don't have cam phasers or solenoids to worry about, so you'll only be out about $7.00 or so. I had a nagging feeling a year back when you were thinking about this vehicle, that car lot wasn't being honest. Especially at the premium price you paid, but theirs nasty people in this world, and you found one of them!

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lbv150

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Actually normal compression should be around 140-150 psi for all eight cylinders in your SUV. Sorry to hear your problem is so severe. Bummer buddy. Now you see what I was talking about in my earlier post about cats. Are you having any top end noise? Most common problems are a worn rocker, or stuck lifter. Either way, you or the shop would have to determine if your compression loss is a valve or bad rings. Here's a Hail Mary pass you can try. Pour about 16 oz of Marvel mystery oil in your oil. If you have sticky rings, or something stuck in the top end, it might bust it loose. Again it's very doubtful it will work, but what have you got to lose. You don't have cam phasers or solenoids to worry about, so you'll only be out about $7.00 or so. I had a nagging feeling a year back when you were thinking about this vehicle, that car lot wasn't being honest. Especially at the premium price you paid, but theirs nasty people in this world, and you found one of them!

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I agree on the Marvel however 16oz is not going to do much. He needs to replace 2 quarts of oil with Marvel, and yes I have had good luck with the stuff in both crank case oil and in the fuel.
 
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