Brake Bleed Procedure 2015 Expedition

[Muddy Bean]

Just wanting the collective wisdom here to confirm my plan to bleed my brakes in order to merely perform a brake fluid exchange with fresh fluid:

Starting at the passenger rear and working to drivers rear, then passenger front, then drivers front. Bleeding the brakes in that order is correct right? I’ve read that some vehicles have an ABS modulator or something near the rear of the vehicle which would require me to actually reverse the bleeding wheel order...can someone confirm or deny this? I’m filing this stuff away for future maintenance but this truck is the newest vehicle I’ve ever owned so things are a bit different on it in terms of normal maintenance than my 1998 Toyota was.
[emoji1742]‍[emoji3603]


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[AllBoostNoEco]

Just wanting the collective wisdom here to confirm my plan to bleed my brakes in order to merely perform a brake fluid exchange with fresh fluid:

Starting at the passenger rear and working to drivers rear, then passenger front, then drivers front. Bleeding the brakes in that order is correct right? I’ve read that some vehicles have an ABS modulator or something near the rear of the vehicle which would require me to actually reverse the bleeding wheel order...can someone confirm or deny this? I’m filing this stuff away for future maintenance but this truck is the newest vehicle I’ve ever owned so things are a bit different on it in terms of normal maintenance than my 1998 Toyota was.
[emoji1742]‍[emoji3603]


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That’s the order I did mine in and it’s tight as I can imagine it could be. I did use a power bleeder rather than the traditional method so I could flush the old fluid while I was down there, but that shouldn’t matter.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Explain your post a little for me if you can...it’s tight? I seemed to be able to get to the bleeder screws no problem...am I missing something I should be doing?

And I do want to flush all the old fluid out, but I was going to borrow my wife and do the traditional brake pedal push/two person method...is this not going to work?


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[AllBoostNoEco]

Explain your post a little for me if you can...it’s tight? I seemed to be able to get to the bleeder screws no problem...am I missing something I should be doing?

And I do want to flush all the old fluid out, but I was going to borrow my wife and do the traditional brake pedal push/two person method...is this not going to work?


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I meant the brake pedal is tight and firm. Not even a hint of play or softness like can be felt when you don’t get all the air out.
I did my brakes and the bleeding on my own, so the two-person method wouldn’t work for me. The power bleeder allows me to crack open the bleeder valve and just sit there waiting until the old fluid is out and the new fluid is at the caliper.
The traditional method should work fine, just more time- and energy-consuming.

 

[Black]

Do yourself a favor and buy one of these.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/one-person+brake+bleeder.do?sortby=ourPicks&from=Search

You will thank me.
The traditional way works but is a lot more work and time consuming.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Sweet that looks like the tool for me. Thanks for the calcification allboost


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[gixer2000]

I use a bleeder like the one posted above and it works great. The ABS module on my 07 is up front drivers side so the order you posted should be correct unless they moved it on the later 3rd gen.

1 thing I normally do is compress the caliper with a pry bar to push all the crap burnt fluid out of the caliper. I guess it gets trapped in the caliper after the bleeder and doesn't get flushed out if you don't compress first. Thats a tip I got from fordtechmakuloco

 

[AllBoostNoEco]

https://www.motiveproducts.com/products/ford-asian-import-three-prong-bleeder

I second the “easy to use” part. Very similar to what I used except for appears to work the other direction. The one I used has the reservoir up at the master cylinder so fluid is pushed through rather than drawn out. I believe the concept is that way you can’t accidentally run the master cylinder too low and suck in air inadvertently.

 

[NASCAR Mike]

I have the same power bleeder that Black has. I will suck out all of the old fluid in the master cylinder first and put fresh brake fluid in there. This way when you are sucking the fluid out you are replacing the old fluid with new fluid.

You only need to compress caliper piston back in if you are installing new pads. If you are doing a flush only, you only need to suck the fluid out. Both my Expy's take two quarts of brake fluid for a full flush. There is about 1/4 to 1/2 left in the second bottle.

I use Valvoline synthetic brake fluid.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Great info. Per my newly posted thread, truck is in shop getting drivers side turbo replaced along with some other stuff. I’ll work on this when I get it back. I really like like the fluid pumper that pushes it out via the reservoir. Decisions decisions. Thanks for the great help on this guys.


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[NASCAR Mike]

I really like like the fluid pumper that pushes it out via the reservoir. Decisions decisions.

I looked at the fluid pumper but I was concerned that I would be pushing any junk or debris from the calipers or brake lines through the ABS module into the master cylinder reservoir. Knowing the ABS module has intricate valves (at least 4 of them) and is expensive to replace I decided on using the vacuum pump. Any debris that would have entered the ABS module would have come from the master cylinder reservoir. I would say there would be much less debris coming from the master cylinder reservoir than from the rest of the braking system.

Have you ever seen the nasty fluid you get out of the caliper when you push the piston in to replace the pads? Imagine pushing that stuff through the ABS module into your master cylinder. No way!

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

I believe a special Ford computer tool is required to fully flush the brake fluid, as the shuttle valves in the ABS module must be activated to move the new fluid through the valves.

On GM vehicles, a GM Tech II device is used to complete this process.

I own a 2015 Expediton Limited 4x4.

 

[NASCAR Mike]

I believe a special Ford computer tool is required to fully flush the brake fluid, as the shuttle valves in the ABS module must be activated to move the new fluid through the valves.

On GM vehicles, a GM Tech II device is used to complete this process.

I own a 2015 Expediton Limited 4x4.

You are correct but it really is more for bleeding the air out when it is installed new and for diagnostic purposes. The ABS module restricts and pulsates brake fluid to the individual wheel to prevent wheel lockup. When you flush the system normally you replace 98% of the fluid in the ABS module. The remaining fluid is minuscule.