Brake upgrades...

[and0r]

I am actually unsure of how my brakes should perform. They seem very weak, my 99 EB doesn't stop on a dime like cars do. I have never owned anything even remotely large of vehicle such as this before, so I am unsure if this is normal behavior for trucks or not.
The higher speed this SUV reaches, the harder it becomes to stop. Very scary.

Visually the brakes seem perfect, both rotor and pad are fine. They do however seem a little small to be placed on such a large vehicle. I certainly can't imagine towing anything with these brakes.

So my question is, what are my options for upgrading brakes?
I'm looking for best value

 

[1955moose]

We had this very discussion last week. Your problem may be due to a stuck caliper on one of your wheels. My 2000 which is same as yours stops fine for a 5800 pound lead sled. We were discussing drilled/slotted rotors for the front. I ordered up a set of power stops from car Id off EBay. $86.00 delivered. I'm going to use Ford oem top grade pads, because I like Oem, and I bought them about 1 year back. Some of the others like Hawk metallic pads. Also your existing pads and rotors could be glazed and overheated. You might be able to deglaze rotors with a brake hone, I like #120 grit and a fresh pair of better grade sticky metallic pads. If you want to go for broke literally, you can upgrade to Baer 14 inch rotors with 6 piston calipers, but that upgrade will cost more than your Suv, around $3,400.00 But man talk about whoa power!

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[and0r]

How can I determine if anything is wrong though? The vehicle doesn't pull to any sides when I stop.
On cars, your range of play is very short. If you want heavy brakes, you only need to step about half way on the pedal. On my 99 EB if I want heavy breaks, it seems that I have to really mash all the way into ABS territory here. I am unsure if this is normal for trucks.

Also, I am not liking my brake options for this vehicle! They seem pricey!

 

[and0r]

The brakes are there, it's not like the pads are worn out. I don't need to step down far to make significant contact with the rotar. But I do have to press hard if I want real stopping power.

... Really wish I knew someone with a 1st gen Expedition so they could test what is normal for me. Or at least anyone with a truck!

 

[Gary Waugh]

could you not take it to a tyre shop or Auto parts shop and ask them to test the brakes for you? They could probably tell you if everything was normal. How old is the brake fluid? If it is more than 4 years old it should be replaced and can cause the brakes to be less effective.

Gary

 

[Plati]

I can tell you my 2003 XLT has made me have similar thoughts for quite a few years. It's "feel" is not in the league of my fathers Infiniti or my 2014 EL. I have always kept new (or not used up much) rotors/pads on it and had it looked at my good mechanics whenever its serviced. For a few years I wanted to flush the brake fluid and have it refilled making sure there was no air in the lines but was always told its fine, that's just how it works on this vehicle. I have not run a stop length test or anything like that (not that I would know how to do that) so I dunno. I've come to the mindset that its fine and it always slows the car down and stops it so I hope I'm right! FWIW

 

[1955moose]

I have same vehicle 1 year newer, and my brakes stop fine. I don't have to mash hard to stop. They've gotten a little glazed due to all the hills near where I live, but fine. You or a shop need to pull front and rears, replace or deglaze both set of pads, with a nice rough 80 grit sandpaper. Also rotors need to be deglazed. You don't have to spend big bucks to get your 5800 pound bouncing baby boy to stop.

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[and0r]

could you not take it to a tyre shop or Auto parts shop and ask them to test the brakes for you? They could probably tell you if everything was normal. How old is the brake fluid? If it is more than 4 years old it should be replaced and can cause the brakes to be less effective.

Gary

No, taking your vehicle to a shop is not actually a reliable method of getting things done, unfortunately. Really wish it was.

 

[and0r]

I have never actually shopped for brakes before, what are some options for upgrading the break pads?

Do larger brake pads exist?

 

[ExplorerTom]

You probably have some lifetime replacement brake pads from an auto parts store. These suck. They are super hard so they last forever.

Look into EBC or Hawk. These are my favorite. Yes- they are expensive. No- they are not lifetime warranty. Yes- your wheels will get dusty. Yes- your big truck will stop when you want to.

 

[ExplorerTom]

On my 2000, I started with Hawk LTS on all 4 corners. Liked them. When the fronts wore out I went with EBC Orangestuff. When the rears wear out, probably about the same time as the fronts again, I'll do Orangestuff all around.

I used to autox and do road courses (different vehicle). Short of actual race brake pads, the Hawk LTS and Orangestuff work great. Cold or spiritedly coming down a canyon.

EBC Greenstuff have been good to me, but on smaller vehicles. I think I'd go Yellowstuff for "regular" people. The Orangestuff are pretty aggressive and really dusty- but they stop great.

 

[JExpedition07]

I've replaced all my rotors front and rear with motorcraft high level surface rotors and ceramic pads from powerstop definitely an improvement. My fronts were not even old at all, but warping already and scoring as they were cheap replacements and I'm not even sure they changed the pads when I had them done so I redid them again with new pads. I decided to stop fighting with the rotors on this truck and replaced all four with ford stuff. Keep in mind these of course stop slower than a car.

 

[rjdelp7]

I was told, when the 1st Gens came out, they had the largest rotors ever made. A good pedal, depends on good rear brakes. I would look at the rubber lines near the calipers. See if they look normal. When was the last time brakes were replaced? Crack the bleeders and let them gravity bleed.

 

[JExpedition07]

The 3rd gen rotors are 13.5 inch diameter, pretty small.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Just a shot in the dark. At that age, I would replace the front brake hoses. If the fitting are not badly rusted, it is a simple job and the Motorcraft replacement hoses are about $20 (+ shipping) from Rock Auto.

If the fitting are very corroded, start a week ahead spraying them with your favorite penetrating oil. Don't forget the brake bleeder screw ! Mild heating with a propane torch (start with the bleeder screw) before attempting to loosen them (On the bleeder screw, warm the screw and the surrounding area. You only need it to be about 200F. Then take an ice cube wrapped in a rag and hold it on the screw for about 30 seconds, before attempting to loosen it.)

Or just take it to a good repair shop. SWAG is about $100 per side.

Inspect the rear hose(s) also.

 

[98eb5.4]

old rubber is the starting point, calipers, master cyl & flex lines at all 4 wheels, u can also get stainless steel flex lines,

cheapest way is pads that bite hard,

way more money is upgraded bigger brake bits,

http://www.powerbrakeservice.net/98foexhycopo.html

lotsa info out there on booster issues
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-power-brake-booster

 

[theoldwizard1]

... u can also get stainless steel flex lines, ...

Not worth the cost especially if the OEM ones lasted this long.

,,, cheapest way is pads that bite hard ...

That usually requires a softer pad material. Softer pads wear faster and create a lot of brake dust.

If it is not the hoses, I am betting that one of the calipers is sticking.

 

[and0r]

Booster is fine, pads are fine, lines are fine, truck is immaculate.