Brake upgrades?

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Virtually every aftermarket rotor is junk. One exception: I've had great results with DBA rotors from Australia using Hawk break pads. Most recently I've used Ford Motorcraft rotors and pads and the truck stops perfectly with no warping in 5,000 miles.

Forget the auto part store crap, it's garbage.

And what J is telling you is true. Use an air wrench on lug nuts and your rotors will be toast.

I've had Motorcraft rotors up front w/ Motorcraft pads for 55K and have had zero issues. In the back I've got AC Delco rotors w/ Akebono pads and probably have about 20K on those. The rotors they replaced were Motorcrafts; no issues with those either.

 

[chuck s]

Our lug nuts require 150 lb-ft of torque, more than 50% more than the typical passenger car. None of my torque wrenches go that high. My 1/2 inch Dewalt impact wrench could not remove them when I put my mud flaps on. PITA.

The tightening pattern is in the manual and with an even number of nuts is not quite intuitive.

-- Chuck

 

[Plati]

Our lug nuts require 150 lb-ft of torque, more than 50% more than the typical passenger car. None of my torque wrenches go that high. My 1/2 inch Dewalt impact wrench could not remove them when I put my mud flaps on. PITA.

The tightening pattern is in the manual and with an even number of nuts is not quite intuitive.

-- Chuck

Interesting, did not know that. Agree, not intuitive. I'm guessing the standard X pattern works pretty well too? I always go around and finger tight everything, trying to rock the wheel on the center ring and make sure every lug slowly gets tighter and is seated in unison before I go for the final torque. Have never used a torque wrench, just a 1 foot ratchet and I lean on it about 150 pounds worth.

 

[chuck s]

Yep, that's the Ford diagram. Torque #1, skip 2, torque #2, skip 1, torque #3, skip 1, torque #4, skip 2, torque #5, skip 3, torque #6. Hard to put this to music. There are other 6-bolt patterns that Google will produce but they're not any memorable.

Not sure if this has any importance in wheel lug nuts but on things like engine cylinder heads the UN-tightening sequence is as important as the tightening to prevent warpage.

I torque anything with a toque specification with a torque wrench if at all possible. This means nearly every nut or bolt in any of my cars. There's a spec for a reason and despite individual's getting away with guessing forever I maintain my practice. I multi-torque things like lug nuts. 50-70-90 for my trailer wheel nuts for example. I had to resort to the same 150 pounds on the 12" handle for my Expedition lug nuts. 150 pounds on a 24" handle for the rear axle nuts on my Honda S2000.

-- Chuck

 

[mwells]

Ever since front wheel vibration on my 2003 Explorer, I have hand torqued, or demanded hand torqued, lug nuts. The result has been no vibrations in my 96 explorer, 2010 Expedtion, and 2014 Expedition. Do not listen to the guy who says he uses a torque stick on the impact wrench.
I hope Trainmaster was joking about the 350#.

 

[NASCAR Mike]

I have Powerstop pads and rotors on my 08 Expy with no issues. I also had Powerstop pads and rotors on my 05 Excursion pulling 12,000 lbs and never had one issue.

I am currently using EBC pads and rotors on my 2017 Expedition. I installed them when I had about 600 miles on the factory brakes. I am at 7,000 miles now and no issues.

I always use a a torque wrench set to 150 lbs to tighten the lug nuts.

All of the above were slotted and cross drilled rotors.

 

[bobmbx]

OK, there is NO SUCH THING AS WARPED ROTORS! Figured I would just scream that out there. Please refer to the following link by Carroll Smith, this will explain the myth of warped rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

This guy is Clif Clavins' brother, right?

 

[1955moose]

Look on the bright side. On those long trips when your right leg starts falling asleep, the up and down pumping of the brake pedal will keep the blood flowing in that leg!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[theoldwizard1]

I had horrible problems with brake pad dust and warped rotor on my old E150, until I switched to Raybestos ceramic pads and their better quality rotors.

BUYER BEWARE ! Raybestos sell at least 2 or 3 different "grades" of products ! AVOID their "service" grade. For the Expedition they also have "specialty truck" and specialty Police" grades of ceramic pads. For rotors, either their "Advance Technology" or "Police" or "Performance" (slotted).

Both Rock Auto and Amazon carry these parts.

 

[pdqcarrera]

For my 2010 Limited EL 4x4 I went with Power Slot Slotted Brake Rotors (EBCrotors.com) with Hawk Performance LTS SUV brake pads.* Was a noticeable improvement and still going good after 30+k miles including towing mileage (race car trailer), family ski trips and SoCal stop-n-go traffic. Will say the brake dust is pretty aggressive. Attacked the chrome on my custom wheels when I wasn't paying enough attention. grrrrrrr. Of course YMMV! ;-)

Front - Axle Set (HB672Y.714)
Rear - Axle Set (HB579Y.785)