Catch Can!

[Boostedbus]

Here is an update on total oil caught with my catch can since I installed it with 8,000 miles on the 3.5 EB. I now have 30,000 miles on the clock so this is a total accumulation after 22,000 miles. I dumped the oil from the measuring cup into a storage jar and also noticed it had a soot like carbon residue sediment on the bottom. This could’ve been in my intercooler or baked on my valves.

 

[LokiWolf]

Here is an update on total oil caught with my catch can since I installed it with 8,000 miles on the 3.5 EB. I now have 30,000 miles on the clock so this is a total accumulation after 22,000 miles. I dumped the oil from the measuring cup into a storage jar and also noticed it had a soot like carbon residue sediment on the bottom. This could’ve been in my intercooler or baked on my valves.View attachment 39525View attachment 39526

Excellent info! Thanks!


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[chuck s]

My math right? 8oz over 22K miles = 0.36oz/1000 miles. (Intuitively matches my estimates each time I drain the can.)

-- Chuck

 

[justinp16ex]

About $150


JLT 3.0 Oil Separator 3036P-B 2011-2014 F-150 6.2L/Raptor 6.2L; 2015-2019 Expedition 3.5L ecoboost Passenger Side Black Anodized https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W6QR7HS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9rnlEb2HVQV4R


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Any issues with the JLT in winter with freezing or anything?

 

[lbv150]

Any issues with the JLT in winter with freezing or anything?

I don't have any issues with freezing just that the can captures more moisture in the winter than summer. So I cheek and drain every 500 miles where in the summer every 1500.

 

[LokiWolf]

Any issues with the JLT in winter with freezing or anything?

Nope.


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[Boostedbus]

My math right? 8oz over 22K miles = 0.36oz/1000 miles. (Intuitively matches my estimates each time I drain the can.)

-- Chuck

Actually that measuring cup is 2 cups and it was a little over the 2 cup line ......so it’s really close to 1 fl. oz. per 1000 miles.

 

[Machete]

Here is an update on total oil caught with my catch can since I installed it with 8,000 miles on the 3.5 EB. I now have 30,000 miles on the clock so this is a total accumulation after 22,000 miles. I dumped the oil from the measuring cup into a storage jar and also noticed it had a soot like carbon residue sediment on the bottom. This could’ve been in my intercooler or baked on my valves.View attachment 39525View attachment 39526

Damn! All that dumped on the valves otherwise wo a can. What bean counter came up w that design?

 

[Boostedbus]

Damn! All that dumped on the valves otherwise wo a can. What bean counter came up w that design?

I would imagine most forced induction engines will have similar results. Probably not as much on NA engines.

 

[LokiWolf]

Damn! All that dumped on the valves otherwise wo a can. What bean counter came up w that design?

Any DI Motor has the issue where this causes buildup. Just ask a modern Audi or VW owner.

Ford actually has addressed this issue partially in the Gen 2 3.5, by adding port injectors back. They have the secondary function of helping to keep the intake valves clean.


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[Boostedbus]

I don't have any issues with freezing just that the can captures more moisture in the winter than summer. So I cheek and drain every 500 miles where in the summer every 1500.

I actually had the most amount ever on this last can dump. I can’t remember exactly when I last drained it before ,but I’m gonna start keeping a record of miles and fl. oz. each time. I really think I had more this time because of my trip to Hatfield/MyCoys towing ATV’s and side X side in the mountains. I actually had a bad harmonic vibration coming from the trailer between 60-75 mph, so I ran 80 + mph mostly. My mileage suffered severely but I keep my sanity. So actually I probably burned twice as much fuel in this last drain cycle. Once I got home I found 2 trailer tires were starting have lumps from ply’s breaking. I thought the vibration was caused by the wind because of the parachute like load I was hauling. Anyway our drain intervals may vary depending on mpg and how hard we’re spooling. I also wanna say don’t assume you know what the vibration is like me. We were lucky the tires never failed. I was checking them and feeling the hubs for heat every time I stopped for gas and found nothing wrong. It wasn’t until I unloaded and drove with no weight on the trailer did I realize it was tires because of the dribbling. Still couldn’t really tell until I removed them and rolled them by hand..... then it was obvious.

 

[chuck s]

Completely full of "chocolate milk" this morning. Can extension ordered. The dual catch cans on my 'lil Honda S2000 have sight tubes to show the level inside -- still not enough to dump after 3 or 4 years on this NA intake car. Only bought those catch cans 'cuz all the other cool kids have them.

Thought I had the Expedition on my calendar but it must have dropped off. There now.

-- Chuck

 

[Boostedbus]

Completely full of "chocolate milk" this morning. Can extension ordered. The dual catch cans on my 'lil Honda S2000 have sight tubes to show the level inside -- still not enough to dump after 3 or 4 years on this NA intake car. Only bought those catch cans 'cuz all the other cool kids have them.

Thought I had the Expedition on my calendar but it must have dropped off. There now.

-- Chuck

View attachment 39540

The catch cans on your Honda must be oil/water separator style to not even catch water/condensation in 3-4 years? I can see not catching a lot of blow by oil, but still would produce hot steam an condensation being NA. That’s probably my favorite part of the RXP can.... I don’t have to worry about it filling up fast with caught water vapor...... it just catches oil.

 

[chuck s]

The cans in my Honda only have a little oil in them after all this time. Don't recall their construction as to oil/water separation but makes sense. One can is connected between the PCV valve and intake manifold after the throttle body and the other between the valve cover and intake before the throttle body. An impulse buy.

-- Chuck

 

[lbv150]

The cans in my Honda only have a little oil in them after all this time. Don't recall their construction as to oil/water separation but makes sense. One can is connected between the PCV valve and intake manifold after the throttle body and the other between the valve cover and intake before the throttle body. An impulse buy.

-- Chuck

Hmmm. Sounds like the can maybe of a simple design and not condensing the oil and water vapor as it should. The can only goes on the PCV suction hose. The other side is filtered fresh air sucking in and a can on that hose would do absolutely nothing. We used cans on NA muscle cars back in the 70s. A properly designed can works good. JLT cans have a honycomb filter to condense the oil and water vapor, that is why they work so well. For home made cans, an air compressor oil separator will do the same thing.

 

[os1kne]

This is a great thread! Lots of good info.

 

[chuck s]

A review of the system on my Honda (5 years after installation ) indicates the second car really only helps/works on forced induction systems which I don't have but considered at one time. Closed loop baffled cans.

http://www.saikoumichi.com/

We'll see how fast the JLT can extension gets up to Richmond from Virginia Beach. I was surprised at how much liquid was in the can a couple of days ago.

-- Chuck

 

[Boostedbus]

Hmmm. Sounds like the can maybe of a simple design and not condensing the oil and water vapor as it should. The can only goes on the PCV suction hose. The other side is filtered fresh air sucking in and a can on that hose would do absolutely nothing. We used cans on NA muscle cars back in the 70s. A properly designed can works good. JLT cans have a honycomb filter to condense the oil and water vapor, that is why they work so well. For home made cans, an air compressor oil separator will do the same thing.

On page 17 of this thread I show a picture of oil in my clean side hose after the first 8,000 miles bought from new and explain how it does indeed get dirty/oily. Nowhere near as bad as the “dirty side” on the passenger side because it only gets blow by under certain conditions then it’s back to suction.

 

[Broncoholic]

WOW! I can't believe it's been 1 year almost exactly since I did the install. I did the 1st empty today. Due to COVID and the kids doing E-learning from home, we've put about 2,200 miles on the truck over the last 12 months. There's probably about 2 oz of mostly oil. I've read water condensate is worse in the winter/cold temps, but we're in Florida and it was hardly driven this winter. Is it worth the money? I don't know. But I'd rather have that oil in a bottle than in the intercooler or cooked on the intake valves.

 

[Machete]

WOW! I can't believe it's been 1 year almost exactly since I did the install. I did the 1st empty today. Due to COVID and the kids doing E-learning from home, we've put about 2,200 miles on the truck over the last 12 months. There's probably about 2 oz of mostly oil. I've read water condensate is worse in the winter/cold temps, but we're in Florida and it was hardly driven this winter. Is it worth the money? I don't know. But I'd rather have that oil in a bottle than in the intercooler or cooked on the intake valves.
View attachment 41085

keep in mind 2200 miles isn’t even an oil change interval.