Change Tranny Fluid???

[Ryan Taylor]

Recently bought a 05 Expy 4x4 EB
with 161k. Don't know the service history. It runs and drives great! The fluid appears to been taken care of. I heard the horror storys of flushing fluid with high mileage and you'll get a big paper weight. Thoughts?

 

[Vancouver Bob]

I changed my trany fluid back in December and I had about 200K miles on her. No problems... noticed an improvement in the shifting even.

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

++ on fluid and filter change. spend the few extra .02 for Blue Oval filter.
if you wanna go all the way, you'll do converter as well.

 

[1955moose]

You always want to do a trans fluid drop, and refill. Flushing out a transmission is asking for issues shifting, and clutches grabbing/ releasing. Especially with a trans that's got over 80k miles. I took a chance on my 4r100, at 75k, done at the dealer. The reason I did was nobody knew if I had mercon or mercon v synthetic in mine. I'm due for my 30k fluid drop in about 2 months, at least I know what fluids in there, as I bought the mercon v in their parts dept and left the case of it on passenger seat, when I dropped off. Theirs my 2 cents on flushing. Don't if you don't have to.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Vancouver Bob]

I changed my trany fluid back in December and I had about 200K miles on her. No problems... noticed an improvement in the shifting even.

I should have added that this involved dropping the pan, changing filter, and tying into the return line from the cooler to pull the old fluid out (since I don't have a drain on my converter). Adding new along the way until the fluid coming out looked clean.

 

[1955moose]

I know all the transmission since I believe 2004 don't have the torque convertor drain. I don't know why Ford and most manufactures do this. Probably to get past warranty, and sell transmissions. I grew up working on some of the most bullet proof engines/ transmission's of the 60's through early 90's. Quality started dropping mid 90's with electronic shifting, and under sized parts. I can see why you flush, otherwise your mixing old with new fluid. A safer bet would be to install a drain plug on your pan, drain fluid, go about 200 miles and drain again. A pain no doubt, but still safer than flushing.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Doug Kuhlman]

There is a thread in the how-to section if you want to diy. I believe this to be a safe way to change 100% of the fluid. It is an easy, but messy job. If you don't care to drill on the pan, you can buy replacement pans that already have a drain plug. That is what I did.

http://www.expeditionforum.com/thre...r-change-and-pan-drain-plug-kit-install.8199/

 

[JExpedition07]

On the 6 speed you just drop the pan and replaced filter. You are replacing 90% of the fluid and the remainder is no big deal. You cannot flush these trans as the thermal valve will not open up and allow fluid to flow. Never have these flushed as flushing machines have fluids with general additive packages that will not suit your trans 4 or 6. use the ford factory fluid.

In fords own words on the 6R75&80:

This transmission has an internal thermal bypass valve contained within the case. The thermal bypass valve will not allow the use of any type of transmission fluid exchange machine to be used on this transmission.

 

[08T1]

Drop pan and change. Drive till next oil change then change again.

No worries after that for a while.

JMHO
CJ

 

[1955moose]

I agree with Jexpedition, you cause more chance of damage with any flushing. I don't agree with the 90 percent part of fluid being drained. I'd say more like 70 percent, 4 quarts or more is in torque convertor. But that's still better than taking a chance flushing. We've had this discussion in the past, and agree that early, and often fluid/filter changes are the key to a long life of any automatic transmission. The owners of long term life of their transmissions, whether 4 or 6 speed, happen with constant service intervals, along with a proper transmission cooler if used for severe duty, like Towing heavy trailers.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

old school for me, drop the pan, gently blot dry droplets, inspect, change the filter and button back up being careful to NOT over torque the bolts. take old fluid to automotive chain store for disposal.

change interval when towing, for me anyway, was 25K. I added the mag-hytec pan, holds an extra 8 qts of fluid & has a 1" magnetic drain plug and o-ring for sealing around the flange, B&M inline trans filter with temp sensor and gauge to keep an eye on it.

 

[poppie]

I've never had any issue flushing my 07 expy, have the dealer do it aprox every 30,000 miles, going on 115,000 miles and no issues what so ever,and whats up FORD with having the trans dipstick underneath on the expy's ,really,back when I was younger and they had converter plugs I used to do my own trans fluid change,that went away with my 2002 F 350 PSD pick up,flush that one too,every 30,000 miles.

 

[Tocapet]

My '09 EL had a leaky electrical plug to the tranny. I bought the replacement sleeve, dropped the pan, changed the filter and sleeve, and filled it back up with Mercon LV. That was 3 years ago. No problems .

 

[rjdelp7]

I bought a electric extraction pump on Ebay for $17. My 48K, 2001 Lincoln, had a fluid/filter change. The fluid was not cherry red, after another 2-3yrs of driving. I extracted, about 4.5qts(everything in the pan). It worked well, was quick and pain free. The transmission, does shift smoother. However, transmission fluid is dyed. They actually sell a red dye, to add to old stuff. The color, may be meaningless. A burnt smell, can indicate a problem

 

[kekman]

Just remember that regardless of which transmission you have, it is a basic hydraulic/mechanical device. The life of any hydraulic system is in the hydraulic oil: proper type, maintained often, filled to proper level but not over-filled. We trailer our boat over most of eastern US. I change oil and filter every 50K. I just gave my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee to my grandson that had 274,780 miles on it with no problems- trans or engine never rebuilt. Tow capacity was 5500lbs and our trailer net was 5200lbs- so we did something right. With the 6R transmission and the thermo check valve preventing complete drain, I will probably change at 50K instead of 100K per manual and drop oil out after another 10K @ 60K since you can not get all of it out at one time. Cheap insurance. Will service the 4wd at same time.

I would add that I always change the filter and clean out pan and bottom of Trans as best as I can. Don't leave any metal regardless how fine behind. That is why flushing is not a good SOP. Additionally, I will put a super-magnet around the drain plug to localize metal shavings and make easy cleaning. If pan is non-metallic, I replace the plug with a magnetic plug.

I never put additive packages in unless OEM requirement- only causes bigger problems downstream and masks bigger problems. I manage a very large fleet of semi-tractor/trailers with most having high pressure hydraulic systems operating throughout the N American continent. Keep to the above and operate within 80% of design parameters, you usually will not have a problem. Life is in the blood- and in this case- the blood is the hydraulic oil!