Constant whirring sound in the engine compartment 2000 Exp.

[HighSierra49er]

I came home from running errands tonight and shut off the Exp. and a loud continuous sound in the engine compartment was heard. Sounds like electric cooling fans, but don't have any. I disconnected the ground to the battery and the sound disappeared. Re-connect the battery and the sound comes right back. The truck starts really easy, and doesn't seem to be related to the sound, but I have to think maybe I have a relay issue with the starter, or a stuck solenoid. What else could be making a loud sound resembling a motor running and not turn off with the key? Starter drive?

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance...

 

[1955moose]

If you had a stuck starter, you'd know it. It would grind! Not a pretty sound. Theirs only so many things that make a sound like a fan. Our vehicles use a clutch fan, not electric.I think you have something dragging with one of the assessories or possibly the engine itself. Rule out the obvious, check oil/coolant make sure your not overheating. Narrow it down. Let us know what you find.

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[stamp11127]

Which side of the engine compartment is the sound coming from?

 

[HighSierra49er]

The noise seems most pronounced on the driver's side of the engine compartment. The sound is a bit like a leaf blower, only subdued. I felt around the components in the area hoping to detect some vibration indicating a motor running, but unsuccessful. The battery ground wire remained disconnected overnight, and when I reconnected this morning the expected spark hit when reconnecting the ground and battery terminal. I'll spend some more time trying to isolate the source of the noise.

I sure can't complain about this happening. With the exception of a weak fuel pump being replaced a couple of years ago, and an alternator swap when the truck was relatively new, this is the only issue I've had in 18 years of service.

 

[HighSierra49er]

The sound, while maybe not as loud, is not unlike a starter motor that hasn't engaged, similar to what you would expect with a bad starter drive. In my case, the truck starts easily with no noise, nothing out of the ordinary.

 

[RonB1964]

The approach I would use is to listen closely where the sound is coming from, then start pulling fuses one at a time from the fuse block under the hood and under the dash to isolate the circuit, then debug from there. Check the user manual for the circuit name and be sure to keep the fuses locations straight.

 

[HighSierra49er]

Ron, your response is just too logical for me to have considered on my own. I'll start the process and get the problem isolated through the fuse box. Thanks much, and of course I'll report my findings.

 

[HighSierra49er]

I pulled seven rows of assorted fuses and relays without luck. On the final and last row, the very first fuse stopped the noise.

Engine compartment - Location 102, 50 AMP, Anti-lock Brake Module. With the fuse removed, all engine functions and accessories seem to work properly, except I'm sure I have no anti-lock features. I will later today reinstall the fuse and then try to isolate further with the cabin fuse box.

Any ideas why we would be getting a noise that might be associated with the anti-lock brakes, or might this protected circuit function with other accessories?

 

[1955moose]

I was just reading about another expedition owner that had a similar issue. I'd pull both front wheels and be sure theirs nothing interfering with the abs sensors. Are you getting any abs light on? The 50 amp fuse/ breaker may be shorted causing your issue with the abs pump. At this point I'd run a diagnostic on the abs system, see what pops up.

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[HighSierra49er]

Learning of having an abs pump and its location has been super helpful. I reconnected the battery and now knowing of the pump, found it, and it's definitely the culprit. Further searching around I found this You Tube video of the diagnosis and repair. Solenoids in the control module seem to stick on occasion, creating this constant-on issue. I'm now heading in the right direction for repairs. I'll advise when everything is back to normal.

I've had nothing pop up on the dash telling me of ABS issues, and also stopped on my way home tonight at O'Reilly Auto Parts and they put their scanner on my OBD II system and not one occurrence showed up of any ABS issues. I would have thought that if nothing else, having removed the fuse would have triggered something.

This forum has been so helpful to me in many instances where I was able to fix a simple issue myself, and it's all been educational. Never would I have considered a pump operating the ABS. Thanks for all the assistance.

 

[HighSierra49er]

This morning I rotated the tires on the Exp. and checked to make sure that all ABS sensors were not fouled or defective. Nothing out of the ordinary was found. I also checked my pre-start service lights in the dash and found that the ABS light was defective, the only light in the cluster to not light up.

The local auto parts stores are asking between $331 and $392 for a rebuilt module. Several web based companies offer to rebuild your module at a much lower price and two had 100% positive feedback from customers. Most of the shops rebuild numerous variations of this module for GM, Ford, and Chrysler vehicles. The module will be on its way tomorrow morning for a seven day turnaround for rebuilding.

The only option with Ford is to purchase a complete assembly of the pump, motor and module in the $700 ballpark.

 

[1955moose]

Just for the heck of it, I pulled out my 2000 owners book and found that the #102/ 50 amp maxi fuse is in fact for the four wheel anti lock brake module. It's an amazing time we live and drive. I remember not too long back when you had to pump your brakes, and pray you didn't hit what was in front of you. Ain't it wonderful that you just mash hard on our 5800 pound sleds, and magically we get to go home for dinner.

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[kythri]

I've had this same issue, and the fix was replacing with a new (or in my case, used) ABS pump.

I believe the issue is in the electronics module of the pump, rather than the mechanical pump itself, but it seems nigh impossible to separate that module, so I said screw it, and replaced the whole assembly.

 

[deweysmith]

They CAN be separated but no one will sell you just the module. You can pull one from a scrap yard or something, or you can separate them and tear apart the control module. They are pretty simple to rebuild if you are handy with a soldering iron, there are just a few terminals that need to be reflowed. YouTube tutorials abound, and there are people on eBay that will do it for you for a nominal fee.

 

[Brooks Moorhead]

This might sound strange...but bare with me. Have you ever replaced or resealed the windshield? If not, this may be your solution. My '00 Expedition began having a problem with the heating / air fans turning on full blast when I turned the ignition off. It would completely drain the battery. After a lot of heartache and research I learned that this generation of expedition and F-150 would allow a leak in the windshield. It's not visible or easily detected. The water would run down the pillar and collect behind the dash. Eventually it begins to drip into the GEM module and create all sorts of electrical issues with various electrical symptoms.

This may not be your problem, but would be worth checking out. Fixing the leak fixes the cause of the problem, but you may need to dry out the GEM as well before symptoms subside. Just pray there is no long term damage from it (there wasn't any for me).

Good luck with your fix!

 

[kythri]

If the ABS module is running non-stop, this wouldn't be a GEM-related issue.

Not discounting all of the issues that a wet GEM (or, in my estimation, more of a wetness-related short issue in the fuse box rather than the GEM itself), but the ABS module taking a dump is a not uncommon issue.

 

[HighSierra49er]

Knowing that the screws likely would be an issue, I early in the morning applied a bit of penetrating oil to them. In order to get a solid bite to the T-5 Torx screws to prevent damage to the heads, I ended up using two extensions and one swivel to get the ratchet up to an area where I could get some leverage on the screw heads and have the socket directly on the screws. Also completely removed the air filter canister to give me as much room in the area as possible. All four screws did break loose with a slight snap sound, and at that point it was easy to remove them with my fingers. The screws are only 1/8" diameter and it would seem that it takes a bit too much torque to break them loose. I was waiting to find that I had twisted a head off, but they came out in perfect condition. The two electrical connections were quick work. The module is on its way to a eBay electronics shop that specializes in this type of repair. All in all it wasn't a bad job and took about 30 minutes overall.

 

[Jon Hedges]

The problem is the ANTILOCK brake module/servo that sits on the brake ma automatically or by the brake master cylinder and pumps the brakes to keep you straight in a skid.

The one in my 2000 Expy did the same thing years ago. I simply pulled fuse 102 and to this day pump the brakes my self.

 

[1955moose]

Glad you got it off OK. Factories Love using red lock tite, works great but a real s.o.b.. You might want to use a little blue loctite during reassembly.

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[Gumbyalso]

See this string: "ABS controller gone bad" Here's what I posted in that string:
I have a 2000 Expedition I've had since new. In 2009 at 166,000 the electronic module of the ABS system went bad. Like wpatters1229 describes in the string I noted above, the pump just kept running at a high pitch, even with the key off. I pulled the electrical connector to the ABS to kill the pump. Later I pulled the electronic control module off the ABS assembly and shipped to ModuleMaster in Moscow, ID. They repaired and returned my module for $155 with a five year warranty. While it was being repaired I covered the hydraulic portion of the ABS that I had left in place with a plastic bag and a zip tie to keep the dirt out and just drove it without the ABS. Having had many vehicles in my life without ABS, this was not an issue. My rebuilt module has now been working for 129,000 miles and eight and half years. So the entire repair cost me $155. I just looked on the internet and Module Master in Moscow still appears to be in business. And I'm a firm believer in ABS. It's probably saved me from a few accidents. And we have ABS (aka anti-skid) in many aircraft including passenger jets and fighters (like that Phantom in the picture to the left). There would be a lot more blown aircraft tires without it. Aircraft anti-skid pre-dates the ABS we have on cars and trucks. My $.02 - it's easy to pull and replace the electronic control module and you don't have to disrupt the hydraulic portion. I'd pull the electronic module and send it Module Master. At least that's what worked for me. In 2009 Ford would only sell the complete unit and it was $650 back then. You can also buy an aftermarket electronic control module at many parts stores.