coolant in cyl#5 spark plug hole

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Bowesmobile

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I started having a mis-fire Sunday in cyl #5. Pulled the spark plug out and the boot was wet with coolant half way up. I pulled the plug cleaned out the hole. Re-installed the plug and it fired fine for about 5 min. Then stated mis-firing again. I'm thinking its a intake gasket leaking coolant into the cyl. #5 spark plug well. But does this sound likely to anyone else? It has 230k on it and the intake probably hasn't had the gasket replaced, ever. Is this something that I can tighten the intake and it'll re-seal? Its probably best to just replace the gasket. But Until I'm ready to do that I was wondering if tightening the intake will possibly work.
 

metaldrgn

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Another known problem is that the heater lines leak onto the cops and may have caused it. Did it get on the connector?
 
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Bowesmobile

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So here's an update. I have an all aluminum intake. So that rules out the leak between the plastic and aluminum cross over. I watched it run, but not all the way until it was hot. So the upper hose could be leaking, or the gasket for the thermostat. It could still be the intake gasket at the head interface. But we'll see. Oh and the 4.6L in 1997 didn't have C.O.P. . Its a coil pack at the front of each head.
 
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Bowesmobile

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Last night I spent an hour working on removing the intake. I'm down to the last two bolts at the far back and the intake will come off. In the process one of the vacuum tubes for the EGR Pressure sensor broke off as I grabbed the rubber line to remove it. I think it was cracked already because it didn't take much pressure and it fell off. So I ordered a new one from the parts store. Not too bad for an hours worth of work!
 
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Bowesmobile

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Worked on it again tonight. Pulled the intake off. I found thick plastic in the bottom of the valley under the intake. It was all broken and shattered looking. Did these intake have a heat shield of sorts to prevent heat soak? In any event, I have some work to do. I need to get it all cleaned out and I'm considering massaging the intake runners with my die grinder. Just open them up a bit and see if there's any improvement in power or MPG.
 

metaldrgn

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You could try port matching but it probably wouldn't help much since you aren't doing it to the heads as well. There are probably some edges you could smooth out a little though inside the intake.
 

BrandonB

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Worked on it again tonight. Pulled the intake off. I found thick plastic in the bottom of the valley under the intake. It was all broken and shattered looking. Did these intake have a heat shield of sorts to prevent heat soak? In any event, I have some work to do. I need to get it all cleaned out and I'm considering massaging the intake runners with my die grinder. Just open them up a bit and see if there's any improvement in power or MPG.

From what I understand that thick black plastic is to reduce noise - mine is all shattered too.
 
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Bowesmobile

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You could try port matching but it probably wouldn't help much since you aren't doing it to the heads as well. There are probably some edges you could smooth out a little though inside the intake.

Oh, I can touch the heads without removing them. I wont be able to do the combustion chambers or the exhaust. But every little bit counts.

BrandonB,
Thats what I thought the black plastic was. Yeah, it wasn't long for this world it seems. It appears it made a good nest for some small critter at one point.
 
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Bowesmobile

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I was back at it last night. I was cleaning out all the debris from the valley. I have been de-greasing the intake, from all the years of neglect. Cleaning all the intake ports with intake cleaner. (Note to self. Get more cans of intake cleaner.) I was also able to lay the new gasket on the heads for a look to see how much material overlap there was. Well, WOW, there's a lot of material I can remove! Or massage away from the edges. I'm just going to do a gasket match on the intake and heads, then leave it at that. Its easier than doing a port match. Which in the end the ports will be matched. It will also be a smoother transition since the edge of the ports will be flush with the gasket not leaving a ridge or gap between the port edge and the gasket that is tucked back from the port wall edge. Its been a while since I've done this. It should be fun! I'll take pic's when I'm done.
 
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Bowesmobile

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So I put everything back together over the weekend and now I have 3-4 injectors that are not firing. I'm pretty positive I plugged all my connections back in properly. Does any one have the location of all the connectors for the fuel injector wiring harness. I'm going to check for an open circuit tonight and ohm out the injectors. I shot some cleaner in each one and I'm hoping I didn't clog some of them.
 
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bedrck46

would suggest that you get a copy of the

Ford workshop manual on DVD. Can be obtained from seller "morpheousking" on e-bay. Cost about $20.00 Much better than Clymer, Haynes or Chilton and also includes wiring diagrams

Don't waste your money on a Clymer, Haynes or Chilton Manual.
It is well worth the $20.00 just make sure you get the DVD for your year as the seller has different DVD's for different years
 
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Bowesmobile

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Thank you for the diagrams. I'm going to get a copy of the Ford workshop manual. Does it seem plausible that three or four injectors could have clogged by spraying cleaner in the inlet. When I pulled everything apart I thought a quick shot of intake cleaner wouldn't be a bad idea. But thinking back at this point. It might have been a bad idea.
 
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bedrck46

Can't give a answer on that. Maybe others will chime in. The prints were from the DVD so that will give you a good idea on the DVD
Would suggest to check the connectors to see if there is any corrosion or bent pins also use some dielectric grease on the connections and make sure everything is properly seated
 
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Bowesmobile

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Bedrck46, Thanks for that! Its something that I have been swirling around in my head that could be a culprit. I'm doing more checking and digging tonight hopefully.
 
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