Coolant Outlet Tube

[Shaun M Johnson]

1997 Ford Expedition XLT SOHC VIN L 5.4L v8 Modular 330 Windsor 4WD

I have the aluminum intake manifold with the coolant outlet tube located in the rear right (passenger side) underneath the engine firewall. The tube connects to the heater core. The engine was just rebuilt. The tube leaks at the base where it meets the intake manifold. Note that the installed coolant tube is brand new. I have since ordered another new tube to replace the other one being that I know it won't come out without a fight. My question is... how can I ensure a good seal since this is a lot of work to do, and abusive to the intake manifold gasket. I'm thinking high temp RV gasket maker around the tube before installing will solve my issue but, for how long? Is this the best route beyond buying a new intake manifold? Some people JB weld there tube. What happens when that tube goes bad? I'm thinking this isn't a good idea. I'm hesitant on buying a new manifold because I don't want to convert from aluminum to plastic. So, what I want to know is, what do you guys think is the best way to install the tube and "guarantee" a tight seal? One last thought, in the photos you will notice the installed tube is banged up around the base flange. That is because I beat the tube into place with a large flathead screwdriver. I will install it with a slip-over pipe this time or a make-shift press to avoid boogering up the flange again. The tube started leaking after adding the initial 3 1/2 gallons of coolant to the system after the engine install. It also leaks when rolling over the engine, despite that it wouldn't start. Please spew your knowledge all over this thread

 

[craig sargood]

Pictures???

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

I'm working on it. Tendonitis is painful and I was finishing updating my dual fan thread. I didn't figure I'd get a response this fast. Here you go.

 

[Trainmaster]

It's pretty low pressure and doesn't get too hot, so you should be able to use the same stuff that gaskets thermostats. I'd be curious if the manual calls for any sealant at all, or if Ford uses it. If the surfaces are both smooth, and you should check, just about anything should work, because the fit should be very tight and the sealant should just be aiding installation and filling a tiny gap.

Also possible, as I'm sure you've considered, that the installation method caused some clearance issue with the fit. You sure it's leaking at the flange?

The choices I see are silicone, gasket shellac or Teflon pipe dope. I'd go with the silicone. Since that works with thermostat housings just about forever, it should be fine here and offer a little flex.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

It's pretty low pressure and doesn't get too hot, so you should be able to use the same stuff that gaskets thermostats. I'd be curious if the manual calls for any sealant at all, or if Ford uses it. If the surfaces are both smooth, and you should check, just about anything should work, because the fit should be very tight and the sealant should just be aiding installation and filling a tiny gap.

Also possible, as I'm sure you've considered, that the installation method caused some clearance issue with the fit. You sure it's leaking at the flange?

The choices I see are silicone, gasket shellac or Teflon pipe dope. I'd go with the silicone. Since that works with thermostat housings just about forever, it should be fine here and offer a little flex.

I couldn't find any information regarding the pipe inside of the Haynes manual. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't be here. I also didn't find much information on the internet. When you say silicone, are you referring to silicone caulking, like for housework? As I said, I do have high temp red gasket maker. The fit is absolutely tight. As mentioned, I had to beat the pipe into place. I did not miss and hit the intake. I also had to cleanup that pipe hole a bit to even get the pipe into it. This intake was in bas shape before I had the flanges machined and then I finished it by cleanup and paint. Teflon pipe dope? Really? My experience with plumbing tells me teflon tape/dope always leaks in time. Thank you greatly for your input so far. My new pipe will be here by the 7th with my new starter from MMR. I would love to have a solid plan by the time it gets here. I don't want to lose another starter as this leak ran onto my starter causing it to fry.

 

[Yupster Dog]

I couldn't find any information regarding the pipe inside of the Haynes manual.

This is where @1955moose usually jumps in and tells you to throw the Hanes manual in the trash and go on eBay and buy a ford repair manual cd for 20-30 bucks. And I would have to agree with him.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

It's helpful in its own way. There's also a lot of missing information and a dysfunctional layout. I'm going to look up your suggestion now.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

This is where @1955moose usually jumps in and tells you to throw the Hanes manual in the trash and go on eBay and buy a ford repair manual cd for 20-30 bucks. And I would have to agree with him.

Do you by chance mean this?

 

[Yupster Dog]

Do you by chance mean this?

View attachment 30360

That would be the best you can get, as that is what the technicians use at the dealership.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

Perfect, thank you.