Coolant Outlet Tube

[Shaun M Johnson]

1997 Ford Expedition XLT SOHC VIN L 5.4L v8 Modular 330 Windsor 4WD

I have the aluminum intake manifold with the coolant outlet tube located in the rear right (passenger side) underneath the engine firewall. The tube connects to the heater core. The engine was just rebuilt. The tube leaks at the base where it meets the intake manifold. Note that the installed coolant tube is brand new. I have since ordered another new tube to replace the other one being that I know it won't come out without a fight. My question is... how can I ensure a good seal since this is a lot of work to do, and abusive to the intake manifold gasket. I'm thinking high temp RV gasket maker around the tube before installing will solve my issue but, for how long? Is this the best route beyond buying a new intake manifold? Some people JB weld there tube. What happens when that tube goes bad? I'm thinking this isn't a good idea. I'm hesitant on buying a new manifold because I don't want to convert from aluminum to plastic. So, what I want to know is, what do you guys think is the best way to install the tube and "guarantee" a tight seal? One last thought, in the photos you will notice the installed tube is banged up around the base flange. That is because I beat the tube into place with a large flathead screwdriver. I will install it with a slip-over pipe this time or a make-shift press to avoid boogering up the flange again. The tube started leaking after adding the initial 3 1/2 gallons of coolant to the system after the engine install. It also leaks when rolling over the engine, despite that it wouldn't start. Please spew your knowledge all over this thread

 

[craig sargood]

Pictures???

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

I'm working on it. Tendonitis is painful and I was finishing updating my dual fan thread. I didn't figure I'd get a response this fast. Here you go.

 

[Trainmaster]

It's pretty low pressure and doesn't get too hot, so you should be able to use the same stuff that gaskets thermostats. I'd be curious if the manual calls for any sealant at all, or if Ford uses it. If the surfaces are both smooth, and you should check, just about anything should work, because the fit should be very tight and the sealant should just be aiding installation and filling a tiny gap.

Also possible, as I'm sure you've considered, that the installation method caused some clearance issue with the fit. You sure it's leaking at the flange?

The choices I see are silicone, gasket shellac or Teflon pipe dope. I'd go with the silicone. Since that works with thermostat housings just about forever, it should be fine here and offer a little flex.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

It's pretty low pressure and doesn't get too hot, so you should be able to use the same stuff that gaskets thermostats. I'd be curious if the manual calls for any sealant at all, or if Ford uses it. If the surfaces are both smooth, and you should check, just about anything should work, because the fit should be very tight and the sealant should just be aiding installation and filling a tiny gap.

Also possible, as I'm sure you've considered, that the installation method caused some clearance issue with the fit. You sure it's leaking at the flange?

The choices I see are silicone, gasket shellac or Teflon pipe dope. I'd go with the silicone. Since that works with thermostat housings just about forever, it should be fine here and offer a little flex.

I couldn't find any information regarding the pipe inside of the Haynes manual. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't be here. I also didn't find much information on the internet. When you say silicone, are you referring to silicone caulking, like for housework? As I said, I do have high temp red gasket maker. The fit is absolutely tight. As mentioned, I had to beat the pipe into place. I did not miss and hit the intake. I also had to cleanup that pipe hole a bit to even get the pipe into it. This intake was in bas shape before I had the flanges machined and then I finished it by cleanup and paint. Teflon pipe dope? Really? My experience with plumbing tells me teflon tape/dope always leaks in time. Thank you greatly for your input so far. My new pipe will be here by the 7th with my new starter from MMR. I would love to have a solid plan by the time it gets here. I don't want to lose another starter as this leak ran onto my starter causing it to fry.

 

[Yupster Dog]

I couldn't find any information regarding the pipe inside of the Haynes manual.

This is where @1955moose usually jumps in and tells you to throw the Hanes manual in the trash and go on eBay and buy a ford repair manual cd for 20-30 bucks. And I would have to agree with him.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

It's helpful in its own way. There's also a lot of missing information and a dysfunctional layout. I'm going to look up your suggestion now.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

This is where @1955moose usually jumps in and tells you to throw the Hanes manual in the trash and go on eBay and buy a ford repair manual cd for 20-30 bucks. And I would have to agree with him.

Do you by chance mean this?

 

[Yupster Dog]

Do you by chance mean this?

View attachment 30360

That would be the best you can get, as that is what the technicians use at the dealership.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

Perfect, thank you.

 

[Trainmaster]

I just tried opening my bootleg 2000 Ford factory disk and it didn't work any more. It probably knew I junked my 2000, so I can't tell you the Ford part number of the sealer they recommend.

When I said "silicone", I meant the stuff you described - the "form-a-gasket" which is usually used for thermostats. Don't know if you need high temperature stuff, since there's water running through it. Red or Blue, just find a good name brand and it should do the job fine.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

I just tried opening my bootleg 2000 Ford factory disk and it didn't work any more. It probably knew I junked my 2000, so I can't tell you the Ford part number of the sealer they recommend.

When I said "silicone", I meant the stuff you described - the "form-a-gasket" which is usually used for thermostats. Don't know if you need high temperature stuff, since there's water running through it. Red or Blue, just find a good name brand and it should do the job fine.

Thank you for your time and wisdom!

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

I was only expecting my new starter to show up from MMR but, to my surprise, my coolant outlet tube and actuators arrived with the starter two days early! The tube was $16, the shipping was $8. If my total was $25 or more, the shipping was free! So, instead of paying $8 for shipping, I got this much need actuators from MaxPow for $10 and got a part instead of wasting the money paying shipping. But, that's not all folks! Since I worked my ass off to fix my credit--I only ended up paying $1.90 for everything because I earned rewards points using my Amazon credit card to buy my truck parts! Brilliant financing, right? I can't wait to try to start the truck again I sure hope it will start. 24 hours to wait while letting the hi-temp silicone gasket maker cure on the coolant outlet tube after it's installed. Then, one more day of putting the truck back together so I can start it! Thanks to my brother Ivan Johnson and his friend at Moody (something) I should have my custom radiator shroud welded and back to me by Friday-Monday! So, one more day to reinstall the fans, wire them in and button up the last few things and I should be on the road again! Oh, still have to tackle my brake problem. Then, it's time to start the body work. Once the body work is done I'll tackle a body lift to get the engine further away from the firewall to allow clearance to the coils/plugs at cylinders 3, 4, 7 & 8. And, I'll spray a protective coating on the frame while the body is disconnected. After this, there's nothing left except for dress-up in the engine bay, suspension lift and some sort of badass cargo/roofrack, rock-ready bumpers with winches. Other than the remaining performance mods in the block and heads... Okay, that's it

 

[Trainmaster]

Good goin' Shaun! Don't monkey-hammer this one!

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

Good goin' Shaun! Don't monkey-hammer this one!

I was going to report your comment but there wasn't an option for "being a hater" just kidding. I'm going to use my o2 sensor socket or a 3/4 copper pipe with the appropriate fittings.

 

[Eugenia Bermudez]

Got my expedition back from the shop where they replaced the fuel pump. Ran good for a few miles then started loosing power and running like crap, worse than before. Took the advice to have the alternator and battery checked except that i just took out the battery and removed the alternator to them both down to auto parts shop and replaced. Runs strong now but now there's a coolant leak somewhere because i can hear it sizzling after i turn it off. So now Ill check hoses to heater core, heater bypass tube and the tube that runs beneath the manifold. If its visible. I love my Ford Expedition! I'm not giving up on it yet!

 

[Hamfisted]

Throw the heater pipe in the freezer overnight just before you go to install it in the intake to shrink it a little before punching it into the intake.

 

[riphip]

Throw the heater pipe in the freezer overnight just before you go to install it in the intake to shrink it a little before punching it into the intake.

If that doesn't get cold enough, go to store (I have Kroger here) & purchase a small block of 'dry ice' (solidified CO2). Will set you back about $2.50-$5 for minimum block. That will shrink it quicker.