Crank/No start Solved; Now the Important Question...Did I bust a valve?

[Christopher Tilp]

Well, a month after breaking down a hundred miles from home and several mis-diagnoses later, the problem is discovered.....but first a list of my trials as I failed forward:

1: Got a "professional" diagnosis of bad fuel pump....dropped tank (with 20 gallons of gas inside and replaced)

2: Modded an external relay to the fuse block

3: Replaced the Crank Sensor

4: Finally broke down, removed valve covers and timing cover. Went to manually crank the engine over and noticed the drivers side cam was not spinning...drivers side cam phaser bolt (The TTY that should have been tightened 90 degrees over) was finger loose. The pin was not broken, but had separated and turned sideways and worn itself out of the journal on the cam shaft. Minor damage to journal channel and exterior face of cam shaft)

Plan going fwd is to JB weld the journal to fill the damaged space when I install the new phaser, and hope that I didn't bend a valve when the cam was not turning....already bought all the parts, so I might as well roll the dice. Here's some pics of the damage

 

[1955moose]

Well that blows. I wouldn't do the JB weld deal. I know you'll get 20 posts here telling you to. I don't believe it would hold up. To do the job right, and hope for it to last, that damaged cam will need to be replaced. Maybe you can find a sound used one. If I was getting dirty working on your SUV, I'd also pull the heads, and inspect each valve. You don't want to do this big a job, just to find out you've got a bent valve or 2. It's just more labor, and some head and intake gaskets. Better to know now, than throw your hammer through the windshield later.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Cooper]

Just get one from a junkyard. Can't be worst than JB wielding something.

 

[Hamfisted]

You have to ask, why did it fail, and fix that issue before wasting the effort to repair the damage. Did you remove the cam and inspect the bearing surfaces? Is the cam seized ? The early 3V motors often starved the cam for oil pressure at idle. The cure was to replace the stock oil pump with the Melling unit and run 10w-30 synthetic oil. Have you changed the oil pump to the upgraded high volume Melling oil pump ? New camshafts are about $100 each, that would be my choice. Check your camshaft part number before ordering.


http://www.freedomracing.com/ford-p...m-5l1z-6250-e-5-4l-4-6l-3v-camshaft-left.html