Crossbar additional mounting hole

[s1000pre]

I have a 2022 Max and just purchased a Thule XL carrier. In the rear position (rear crossbar at rear, front crossbar mounted center) the carrier doesn’t allow the tailgate to open completely. In the forward position, the carrier covers most of the panoramic roof. If I drill and tap an additional mounting hole in the rail just forward of the center mounting position, I can move the carrier far enough forward to clear the tailgate. Has anyone drilled and tapped an additional mounting hole for the crossbar mounting screw? I would like to use the OEM front hole for the rear crossbar screw, and add a new hole for the front crossbar screw.

 

[TheDoug]

I have a Yakima box and I was able to use the middle hole position to allow tailgate to open. I forget the model and length of mine but it only covered the back seat (second row) sunroof section. With the box on I left the shade closed anyway.

I personally would not tap a new hole but that's me... I am guessing it could be done though

 

[wakeboarder]

I have a 2022 Max and just purchased a Thule XL carrier. In the rear position (rear crossbar at rear, front crossbar mounted center) the carrier doesn’t allow the tailgate to open completely. In the forward position, the carrier covers most of the panoramic roof. If I drill and tap an additional mounting hole in the rail just forward of the center mounting position, I can move the carrier far enough forward to clear the tailgate. Has anyone drilled and tapped an additional mounting hole for the crossbar mounting screw? I would like to use the OEM front hole for the rear crossbar screw, and add a new hole for the front crossbar screw.

I think the material is thin, so I don’t think you will get enough threads if you tap it. You could possibly install the rivet style nuts. You need a special gun to install them.

 

[duneslider]

Yeah pretty sure you can't tap it and have it work, you will need to install some sort of rivnut to do it. I don't have a sun roof so I don't have issues...but I do have 3 bars on mine to help distribute the load better when the big box is up there. The factory bars seemed pretty flimsy to me.

 

[ColoradoJon]

I paid a friend that used to work at a rack shop and he drilled and used a rivnut to do it. The material isn't something you can tap on my 19. I don't know if it has changed much for the 22. I used a rear factory hole and drilled forward of it for the second hole. I think most rack shops will do it but I am not sure the cost.

 

[s1000pre]

I drilled a 23/64 hole and inserted a 6mm rivnut which worked great. This allowed me to use the front oem roof rail position for the rear crossbar hole, and the new rail rivnut hole for the crossbar front mount. I filled the oem rivenut with the plastic insert which you can see to the rear.

 

[rpw2021]

I drilled a 23/64 hole and inserted a 6mm rivnut which worked great. This allowed me to use the front oem roof rail position for the rear crossbar hole, and the new rail rivnut hole for the crossbar front mount. I filled the oem rivenut with the plastic insert which you can see to the rear.

Great tips. I assume you used a rivet nut setting tool to install the rivnut? Aluminum rivet nut?

 

[s1000pre]

Yes, Astro Pneumatic tool. I used stainless rivenuts. Aluminum won’t hold as well, and the roof rails are metal, not aluminum. I didn’t want to risk the chance of galvanic corrosion.

 

[s1000pre]

The 6mm rive-nut worked great!

 

[5280tunage]

I've used these style rivnuts many times, for things like oh-crud handles on A-Pillars, etc. So they are quite strong if installed right, and you don't need any special tools for them.

https://www.grainger.com/product/5NNP1?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6fafBhC1ARIsAIJjL8lpQgloCQ_wiChsNWdYURHrnin_LcOvMtw0YtR3PVRMZgVuQ9tCnaoaAkFWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[duneslider]

I've used these style rivnuts many times, for things like oh-crud handles on A-Pillars, etc. So they are quite strong if installed right, and you don't need any special tools for them.

https://www.grainger.com/product/5N...YtR3PVRMZgVuQ9tCnaoaAkFWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

By no special tools I assume you are referring to the nut and bolt method? I have done it that way and had mostly good success, there is a little learning curve. I will say that using the right tool for it is easier but you do have to buy the tool. I have never used one of the air/electric tools but can only assume they are super nice if you do them often.

 

[Jettix2]

Man you guys are braver than me......I've got a Thule XL box, and have to have the crossbars in the forward position to fit on the roof......as it is, the factory crossbar screws seem very minimal for the size of the thule Box, and I've actually got adapters coming to use my Thule Crossbars from prevous vehicle as it seems way more sturdy than the factory crossbars. This will be my setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkZPhzTn9_U

 

[s1000pre]

Keep in mind, the factory roof rails are lighter allowing a few more pounds to be stored in the box. The factory screws are more than adequate, it’s all shear strength which the factory screws provide far more than you would add to the box.

 

[duneslider]

The screws are WAY stronger than the crossbars. The plastic on the crossbars will break WAY before you need to worry about the screws. The weight limit on the roof is also pretty low and its pretty easy to overload the big boxes on the roof. I actually used 3 bars with my big roof top basket, made me feel a little better, not sure it was necessary but I had it so I used it. I had an extra because I broke one and had to buy a replacement set.