Engine Dies Idling Please Help!

[MattMan]

Hey everybody,

It is my first post here and I am not too car-savvy. I think I know the problem and possible solution, but looking for some help.

Problem:

I was driving home from work ~4.5 miles. It was 90F outside and I was in stop and go traffic.

My 2000 Ford Expedition died at an idle. RPM's started to drop, red battery light came on and truck died. I put on hazards, restart the truck, and doesn't even try to turn over. I twist the keys all the way towards me and try to restart. It started! Thankfully for a second I didn't know what I was going to go besides have someone push me off the road. I made it home by revving the engine in neutral when I noticed the RPM's dropping.

When I got home I checked the fluids (again I'm not engine savvy and figured it was the best spot to start. Oil was way higher than the "Do Not Add More" spot. The ATF fluid was at the cold mark if not below, appears to be low.

Background info:
-~144,000 miles
-I bought it a few months ago from a trusted family member
-I replaced the air filter yesterday
-I gave it an oil change yesterday. I put 6 quarts of 5w-20. I decided to use 5w-20 from looking at the forums and the clerk at Autozone said it is recommended. After I started the oil change, I decided to break out the manual which said to use 5w-30. The old oil change sticker says they also had 5w-30. I also could not get the oil filter removed due to the restricted space it is in. I even bought a oil filter wrench (plastic band that clamps when handle is levered) and couldn't get it out. I decided I would buy another wrench next time I do an oil change.
-As I was doing the oil change I noticed the tank forward of the oil tank appeared to be leaking very slowly. I remember the previous owner saying a seal leaks very slowly and it isn't worth it to replace it.
-I measured 6 quarts from the measuring guide on the side of the oil containers. I didn't check the dip stick, doh...
-Truck was idling funny when I moved it into a parking spot (~20 yards) I thought maybe the oil just had to go through the system first.

Solution:
Leave the truck in the parking lot until I redo the oil change with 5W-30. Change oil filter (any recommendations on wrenches to get in the tight spot?). Add ATF fluid that is recommended in the manual.

Any other recommendations or thoughts?

I know I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I also don't have a ton of money to spend and need this car to last a few years till I run it into the ground.


Thanks for your help and time. I appreciate it.

-Matt

 

[stamp11127]

Welcome to the site. I deleted the duplicate post in the engine section. This way all the responses will be on one thread.

Please update your signature with the specifics of your expy, that way we know what we are dealing with prior to posting fixes or ideas.

There are different types of oil filter wrenches out there. I prefer the "band clamp" style if there is room directly under or in front of the filter to get it on. The one you are describing reminds me of the Walmart/Fram junk wrench. It is a good paper weight.
This is the type I grab first:
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-...zsLDRfODGkyiTNGu70VKCbO2T1P3D0ux0xhoCO5jw_wcB
If you decide to get this type, they come in various sizes. Make sure you have the correct diameter range for your filter.

Is your CEL ( check engine light) on?
Crappy idle can be from clogged egr passages, bad IAC's if equipped, need a tune up etc.

Oil only acts as a lubricant and heat exchanger.

If you add trans fluid, make sure it is what the manual calls for - Mercon V if I remember correctly. Don't use anything else or you will be sorry.

 

[MattMan]

Thanks Stamp

Stamp thanks for merging the thread and replying. I'll update my signature this evening or tomorrow. Where is the best place to find this (the title, serial number, manual, inside door panel)? All I know is that it is a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer edition with a Trition (sp?) V8.

The check engine light is not on. No lights go on until it really start to die then the check battery light comes on in the lower right of the dashboard.

That tool, Heavy Duty Oil Filter Wrench, looks exactly what I need. Do you have to use a breaker bar or just your hand? The oil filter is in the front left (looking from the trunk) right by the upper extension arm. I can basically fit my arm up through a tunnel shape. I know it shouldn't be this hard from previous oil changes on my previous Jeep Grand Cherokee V8.

So do you think there is no need to change the oil again? I know I need to drain some anyway since it is overfilled, correct? I know coincidence isn't causation, but in this cause I feel it is.

I'm really excitied to figure this problem out and appreciate all the help. Since i've been biking around it allows me to be able to find the solution over a few days. I just don't want to do any damage to the vehicle, learn a few things, saving money wouldn't hurt either. Thanks for all the help!

 

[black 4x4]

Sounds like you have a bad alternator. When you see the red battery light before the truck dies it means it's not charging the battery and there isn't enough juice to keep the truck running.

 

[MattMan]

Thanks Black 4x4. Is there an easy way to test for it or should I just replace it?

 

[stamp11127]

Since you want to save money you should prove a part has failed before replacing it. You need to add a tool to your tool box if you don't already have it - a digital multi meter. This will give you the charging voltage of the alternator with the engine running. You can start with a cheapy from walmart etc.

 

[MattMan]

Sounds good. Looks like I have some plans for this weekend! I'll be sure to post back with the results so hopefully others can learn.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[AbbadonTD]

You can run your VIN at etis.ford.com

Go to VEHICLE and enter your VIN.

that will get you factory spec for YOUR truck. What each line means...thats a different story.

Welcome. I came from an XJ myself and have been spending the few dry moments of the spring learning this engine.

The oil filter is very easy right? ever change the adapter on an XJ?

Your problem sounds like battery/alternator/relay, or even a sensor, but if it were a sensor, I would expect a CEL warning. Check that your CEL works and they didnt pull the bulb to sell the car.

 

[MattMan]

Checked the VIN

I checked the VIN and this is the info I got:
Duratec 2.5L DOHC Gasoline 4WD 8 Cylinder Engine.

What is the standard way to shorten this for my signature?

FYI AbbadonTD, you link is down.

Also, biking to the AutoZone near my house this is what I'm going to pick up

1. 6 qts Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil
2. Motorcraft MERCON ATF
3. a digital multi meter probably from the tool rental program
4. a Heavy Duty Oil Filter Wrench

I'll report back after I change the oil, oil filter and check the alternator with the multimeter. This will be this evening or tomorrow morning. Hopefully, I get it fixed in time so I can go snowboarding tomorrow evening. Now off to go shopping with the SO.

 

[stamp11127]

After you log on goto "User CP" under the Ford Logo at the top of the screen. Selections will appear on the left, pick the one for "Edit Signature".

Put the year and 5.4 2wd or 4wd is enough. All the other stuff members add is useless but good for bragging rights.

Check to see if the ATF should be Mercon V & go with what Ford recommends, not the person behind the counter.

Don't rent the meter, if anything pick up a cheapie from Walmart or Harbor Freight. At this point you are only needing it for low voltages so the cheapies will work fine. Don't use them on house current though since the safety features may be non existent.

 

[AbbadonTD]

I have not used boards in a long time, so I am still remembering how these things work. You got your info!

Not to start a conversation, but stay away from AutoZone for parts...

Harbor freight has voltmeter for free with other purchase coupons often, use one and get one. The 6.99 jobby is worth its weight in gold (it doesnt weight THAT much...)

Is your truck a native CO truck? it will be on the ETIS site if it had the mods for high altitude done from the factory. If not, you need to tune the engine for the altitude.

 

[arkansasfordfan]

ive had a problem like this not long ago i had replaced my IAC and alt but didnt keep my battery light from going off or from my battery dying i found the problem was a bad IAC and a Blown Mega fuse 175a that it linked between your started relay and alt

 

[Michaelwilson]

I ended up using a giant pair of channel locks on my oil filter the first time I changed it. I think a gorilla put it on.

 

[MattMan]

I F'ed Up

So the result is I was draining the transmission fluid, not the oil. I had way too much oil and way too little ATF. I had it towed to a mechanic and got it all straightened out. The mechanic had to remove the steering pump to access the oil filter and get enough space for tools to do their job. Funny story and I'm not going to be working on my own car anytime soon.

 

[98EXPnSRQ]

I had a friend do that to his CJ7. Except he drained his manual trans of all oil, and put another 6 in the engine and drove it like that for a while. The engine survived and was covered in oil, but the trans needed a rebuild. $hit happens. Live and learn.

 

[AbbadonTD]

You learn more from 1 mistake than 1000 correct first tries.

 

[BAD RONALD]

...The mechanic had to remove the steering pump to access the oil filter...

He did not have to, he chose to. If he charged for this find another mechanic.