My manifold update
So I changed my passenger side manifold this past weekend. It was a job.
Removal was easy, mor or less.
Remove starter
Remove Fender liner (and clean the crap that build up behind it
You will need a large assortment of extensions, preferably 36,24,18,12,6 and 3"
Universal joint
13mm deep socket 6 point
Hacksaw for cyl 3 top stud. Cut the stud down so a short socket can fit. Or a 6 point 13mm box wrench
My 2 #1 cyl studs broke in the head. I put like 5 in lbs of torque. They just fell out.
The down pipe bolts should be 15mm but mine were rusted smaller. Got 1 off, cut the stud of the other one from the wheel side.
Manifold came out easy when all studs were out of the block. My stud nuts took the studs out of the head
Dealing with the broken studs on #1 cyl was tough. Drill and easy out (reverse tap) took some skill. 2 people, an inspection camera (snake cam) for addition Al perspective really helps. Also cobalt drill bit and a 90 degree air drill are a must. A Center punch that you push and it snaps a mark helps too
The drill bit needed to be cut short bu 1/2" on the shank. I used a 1/8" drill bit
The studs the,selves were turning in freely but would not turn out without help
I broke not 1 but 2 taps in 1 stud after getting the first tap out by some sort of miracle. I thought it had beat me. The second tap was secure, so I reverted to using the Drexel with cutting disc to slot the stud(it was 1thread below the surface) and then using a gear wrench key with a flat screw bit managed to remove the stud. My first attempt was to job weld a small bolt to the stud and simply unwind it but the bond did not stick. It would have been a cool trick. I got the idea from an early spark plug removal tool. It glued a wire to the porcelain. I guess I had the wrong glue. I used a straw as a sleeve to ensure it didn't get stuck to the walls, but it might be asking for more problems.
I needed to unbolt the motor mount from the bottom (21mmdeep) x2 which came out as a stud and bolt together and lift the motor to facilitate drilling. Also removed the intake plastic to giv e the motor some more travel. Do not dent your oil pan as I did.
Reassembly is easiest if you do not install the studs, position the manifold on the down pipe with the flange in place then slide the gasket in and install the studs. I used Ford high temp anti seize on the studs and a blob on the gasket between the ports for sticky factor.
A long handle gear wrench with swivels head would help in reassembly.
I found it difficult to get a torque wrench in there. A 1/4" drive model might be better if it goes high enough
Other tools that might help
3/8 and 1/4" drive 13mm deep with universal joint built in
3/8" drive 15,14 deep.
