Exhaust Manifold 2007
- Thread starter af2002
- Start date
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BIG GREEN FORD
Full Access Members
No way you have to take the engine off for a Cracked exhaust manifold. That's just crazy. Its easy with the engine out but they don't HAVE to take it off
01yellerCobra
Full Access Members
I haven't actually removed an exhaust manifold, but in working around the engine it seems like there's enough room to pull the manifold with the engine in the truck.
Bedrck47
Full Access Members
This is for the right side Make a copy, take it to the dealer and ask them why they want to pull the engine?
Then give them a copy and tell them where to stick it and find another service shop.
this procedure was copied from
SECTION 303-01: Engine 2007 Expedition/Navigator Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Procedure revision date: 08/10/2006
Removal
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the RH inner fenderwell. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Remove the RH engine support insulator. For additional information, refer to Engine Support Insulators .
Remove the 2 bolts and the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Remove the 8 exhaust manifold nuts, studs and the exhaust manifold.
Discard the exhaust manifold nuts and studs.
CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These may cause scratches and gouges resulting in leak paths. Use a plastic scraper to clean the sealing surfaces.
NOTE: Clean the sealing surfaces with metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gaskets. Clean the sealing surfaces with metal surface prep.
Inspect the exhaust manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00 .
Installation
Using new exhaust manifold gaskets and studs, position the 2 gaskets and exhaust manifold and install the 8 studs.
Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Using new exhaust manifold nuts, install the 8 nuts.
Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft) in the sequence shown.
Position the exhaust manifold heat shield and install the 2 bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the RH engine support insulator. For additional information, refer to Engine Support Insulators .
Install the RH inner fenderwell. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Then give them a copy and tell them where to stick it and find another service shop.
this procedure was copied from
SECTION 303-01: Engine 2007 Expedition/Navigator Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Procedure revision date: 08/10/2006
Removal
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the RH inner fenderwell. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Remove the RH engine support insulator. For additional information, refer to Engine Support Insulators .
Remove the 2 bolts and the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Remove the 8 exhaust manifold nuts, studs and the exhaust manifold.
Discard the exhaust manifold nuts and studs.
CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These may cause scratches and gouges resulting in leak paths. Use a plastic scraper to clean the sealing surfaces.
NOTE: Clean the sealing surfaces with metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gaskets. Clean the sealing surfaces with metal surface prep.
Inspect the exhaust manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00 .
Installation
Using new exhaust manifold gaskets and studs, position the 2 gaskets and exhaust manifold and install the 8 studs.
Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Using new exhaust manifold nuts, install the 8 nuts.
Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft) in the sequence shown.
Position the exhaust manifold heat shield and install the 2 bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the RH engine support insulator. For additional information, refer to Engine Support Insulators .
Install the RH inner fenderwell. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Bedrck47
Full Access Members
if you need information for the left side let me know
Crang94
Member
I am about to do this job on my 07 EXPY. I was thinking of replacing g the manifold with headers. I found a set priced well and good rating (summit racing brand) but not for my year EXPY.
Any recommendations?
Also. How like l'y will the studs break and I would have to drill them out of the head (in which case the motor will need to be removed or the cab separated from the chassis)
Any recommendations?
Also. How like l'y will the studs break and I would have to drill them out of the head (in which case the motor will need to be removed or the cab separated from the chassis)
i am having a shop do mine and i hope that this will NOT happen...stud breaking.. that would suck. I had it done on my 97F150 and no bueno..... good luck. I am having mine replaced after Memorial Day (or is it Labor Day)... i cant keep the two straight to save my $%#$%$
alincosma
Member
I had mine replaced without taking the engine out. My mechanic was able to change it without pulling the entire engine out, he got under the car and with some effort replaced this way. Less time and not as expensive off course.
Crang94
Member
I would like a copy of that (left side) if possible. My work is to replace both sides and scheduled for Oct 17/18 in Ottawa.
I bought the Dorman replacement manifolds. Not as refined as the Ford ones, and I couldn't afford the headers that were available. I sure hope that I don't break any studs.
Thanks in advance.
Crang94
Member
The instructions posted are for the passenger side I believe.
Let us know how it goes. My job is in 2 weeks.
so mine finally got done..but my mechanic stated he had to basically take the front suspension component off, undo another piece and move the engine a bit to get to the bolts that broke off. it took him 4 days to complete the job ( in and amongst his other auto repairs he does) but he got it done. It cost me 180 plus 104 for the part so I really have no complaint. Just seems like you should have had to move the engine even a little bit to get to the part... I can't believe that Ford would make it that way... seems counter productive but then we are talking the automotive industry where some things just cannot be explained. lol.....
Crang94
Member
My manifold update
So I changed my passenger side manifold this past weekend. It was a job.
Removal was easy, mor or less.
Remove starter
Remove Fender liner (and clean the crap that build up behind it
You will need a large assortment of extensions, preferably 36,24,18,12,6 and 3"
Universal joint
13mm deep socket 6 point
Hacksaw for cyl 3 top stud. Cut the stud down so a short socket can fit. Or a 6 point 13mm box wrench
My 2 #1 cyl studs broke in the head. I put like 5 in lbs of torque. They just fell out.
The down pipe bolts should be 15mm but mine were rusted smaller. Got 1 off, cut the stud of the other one from the wheel side.
Manifold came out easy when all studs were out of the block. My stud nuts took the studs out of the head
Dealing with the broken studs on #1 cyl was tough. Drill and easy out (reverse tap) took some skill. 2 people, an inspection camera (snake cam) for addition Al perspective really helps. Also cobalt drill bit and a 90 degree air drill are a must. A Center punch that you push and it snaps a mark helps too
The drill bit needed to be cut short bu 1/2" on the shank. I used a 1/8" drill bit
The studs the,selves were turning in freely but would not turn out without help
I broke not 1 but 2 taps in 1 stud after getting the first tap out by some sort of miracle. I thought it had beat me. The second tap was secure, so I reverted to using the Drexel with cutting disc to slot the stud(it was 1thread below the surface) and then using a gear wrench key with a flat screw bit managed to remove the stud. My first attempt was to job weld a small bolt to the stud and simply unwind it but the bond did not stick. It would have been a cool trick. I got the idea from an early spark plug removal tool. It glued a wire to the porcelain. I guess I had the wrong glue. I used a straw as a sleeve to ensure it didn't get stuck to the walls, but it might be asking for more problems.
I needed to unbolt the motor mount from the bottom (21mmdeep) x2 which came out as a stud and bolt together and lift the motor to facilitate drilling. Also removed the intake plastic to giv e the motor some more travel. Do not dent your oil pan as I did.
Reassembly is easiest if you do not install the studs, position the manifold on the down pipe with the flange in place then slide the gasket in and install the studs. I used Ford high temp anti seize on the studs and a blob on the gasket between the ports for sticky factor.
A long handle gear wrench with swivels head would help in reassembly.
I found it difficult to get a torque wrench in there. A 1/4" drive model might be better if it goes high enough
Other tools that might help
3/8 and 1/4" drive 13mm deep with universal joint built in
3/8" drive 15,14 deep.
So I changed my passenger side manifold this past weekend. It was a job.
Removal was easy, mor or less.
Remove starter
Remove Fender liner (and clean the crap that build up behind it
You will need a large assortment of extensions, preferably 36,24,18,12,6 and 3"
Universal joint
13mm deep socket 6 point
Hacksaw for cyl 3 top stud. Cut the stud down so a short socket can fit. Or a 6 point 13mm box wrench
My 2 #1 cyl studs broke in the head. I put like 5 in lbs of torque. They just fell out.
The down pipe bolts should be 15mm but mine were rusted smaller. Got 1 off, cut the stud of the other one from the wheel side.
Manifold came out easy when all studs were out of the block. My stud nuts took the studs out of the head
Dealing with the broken studs on #1 cyl was tough. Drill and easy out (reverse tap) took some skill. 2 people, an inspection camera (snake cam) for addition Al perspective really helps. Also cobalt drill bit and a 90 degree air drill are a must. A Center punch that you push and it snaps a mark helps too
The drill bit needed to be cut short bu 1/2" on the shank. I used a 1/8" drill bit
The studs the,selves were turning in freely but would not turn out without help
I broke not 1 but 2 taps in 1 stud after getting the first tap out by some sort of miracle. I thought it had beat me. The second tap was secure, so I reverted to using the Drexel with cutting disc to slot the stud(it was 1thread below the surface) and then using a gear wrench key with a flat screw bit managed to remove the stud. My first attempt was to job weld a small bolt to the stud and simply unwind it but the bond did not stick. It would have been a cool trick. I got the idea from an early spark plug removal tool. It glued a wire to the porcelain. I guess I had the wrong glue. I used a straw as a sleeve to ensure it didn't get stuck to the walls, but it might be asking for more problems.
I needed to unbolt the motor mount from the bottom (21mmdeep) x2 which came out as a stud and bolt together and lift the motor to facilitate drilling. Also removed the intake plastic to giv e the motor some more travel. Do not dent your oil pan as I did.
Reassembly is easiest if you do not install the studs, position the manifold on the down pipe with the flange in place then slide the gasket in and install the studs. I used Ford high temp anti seize on the studs and a blob on the gasket between the ports for sticky factor.
A long handle gear wrench with swivels head would help in reassembly.
I found it difficult to get a torque wrench in there. A 1/4" drive model might be better if it goes high enough
Other tools that might help
3/8 and 1/4" drive 13mm deep with universal joint built in
3/8" drive 15,14 deep.
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