Fan issues

[JExpedition07]

I figured I should stop hijacking the other browser thread. So my fan started to not work intermittently. I replaced the blower control module, no difference. I then replace the plug that checked out bad, no difference again. I then replaced the module again and it ran for most of today then started surging and stopped working again. Anyone have any ideas I’m lost. The whole setup behind the glovebox is brand new and the fan still only works here and there.

My mechanic is swamped and too busy to get me in now for 2 weeks.....should I just swap out the motor and wheel and hope for the best or replace the HVAC head unit control? This is driving me insane. It’s not a loose connection because the fan will work some startups and others not and when it does run it runs all the way through.

 

[JExpedition07]

Good voltage through new connector to new relay....which I assume means the main head unit is sending the signal to energize fan. What is the difficulty on replacing the Blower Motor Assembly in these trucks? Anyone done it?

 

[JExpedition07]

Just an update I located the fan motor and checked connections all seem ok. I tapped the fan housing with my hammer lightly and it jump started and ran.

Knowing this it’s a motor, ordered a Motorcraft. Basically the module was a waste, however the connector was shot.

 

[Beckta10]

Just an update I located the fan motor and checked connections all seem ok. I tapped the fan housing with my hammer lightly and it jump started and ran.

Knowing this it’s a motor, ordered a Motorcraft. Basically the module was a waste, however the connector was shot.

I don’t know if this will help, but I pulled this from nhtsa.gov. Might check it out and see if it helps?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JExpedition07]

New fan motor arrived this morning, will update on replacement procedure later:

 

[JExpedition07]

Problem fixed with new motor, works great! Blower install took about 20 minutes with removal and installation of new unit. I looked online and there aren’t any videos/ instructions for our model year. The book rate is high and shops and dealers want to remove the entire dashboard, NOT NEEDED!!

Yes it’s a fight to get it out but it’s doable. Peel back your carpet first thing and unplug the old unit. Twist it and it will drop out as it’s held in by tabs. You have to work the old one out past the sound deadening and same when going back in. I used my long screwdriver to slightly flex the fan cage to get it to drop into the housing.

 

[Beckta10]

Glad you got everything fixed! It's crazy the dealer is trying to charge for an entire dash removal. I took mine out at one point as well and while it's a tight fit and you need to get just the right combination of ratchet extensions in there, it's totally doable.

 

[TobyU]

One of my town car fan motors sticks every now and then. I can tap on it or open glove box and give it a spin and it will be fine for weeks.

 

[jeff kushner]

I'll give it to JE, you don't f around with stuff.....BAM, you get it done! Fwiw; I've found that with electrical stuff, working backwards from the problem seems to give me more success & buying less parts, which I'm famous for doing when restoring bikes. Wiggling.....although it sounds so fundamental, still works.

Glad you fix it brother!

jeff

 

[Plati]

I've done a lot with cables & harnesses over the years. Used to design them for minicomputers in the early 80's. Wires are crimped to terminals which are them set into connectors. You can have a bad crimp or the terminal might not be seated into the connector so it doesn't mate properly with the corresponding terminal. Insulation displacement terminals might not make good contact with the wire. Sometimes the terminal is slightly bent so it doesn't mate tightly with the corresponding terminal. Wires have been known to lose continuity inside a bundle or inside the insulation on the wire. Terminals or any electrical connection can surface corrode so it doesn't make good electrical contact. Its maddening to chase it down. Volt/Ohm meter helps.

I'd say the most common intermittent I've seen is it looks like the terminal is ok in the connector but in reality its not seated. When you plug that connector into its mating connector - one terminal doesn't fully engage with its partner. Sometimes you have to pull the terminal out of the connector and bend the locking tab back out a bit so when you push it back into the connector it seats solidly.