FlyBry
Full Access Members
Installed these the first Saturday after I bought it. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5628069&cc=3444715&pt=13824&jsn=919
Front Brake Pad Replacement - Gen4
- Thread starter Overtow
- Start date
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Thanks Overtow - I will give that a try and then off to the dealer depending on what I find. At the moment it seems most notideable when baking in a straight or nearly straight line fro m45 mph to a slow/stop. Good thing it's still under warranty......
Finally had a chance to try your suggested diagnostic.....and.....couldn't discern any difference right or left - the rumble is there any time I am braking from say 40mph or faster. Hard brake or just slowing, doesn't really matter. Guess I'll have it checked when I have the tires rotated and balanced.
Yes I remember living in MD my 1982 Truck rusted so bad you could see the street through the doors. Living in AZ now my 2010 Ford Van with 200,000 miles is clean on the underside with zero rust. The calipers look new, etc.
infidel1911
New Member
anyone know what the torque specs are for the main caliper bolts and the slide pins, for front and rear?
Front:
Slide pins: 27 ft.lb
Caliper bracket: 184 ft.lb (the manual wants you to discard bolts)
Rear:
Slide pins:26 ft.lb (discard bolts)
Bracket: 258 ft.lb (discard bolts)
Chris Miller
New Member
2 things. It looked like you used a new pad to push in the caliper. Next time use the old ones so as to not damage the new pad. The other is a question. All my other cars, the brake pads had squealers. Anyone know why does the brake pads not come with squealers? I had to replace the front rotors (2 more bolts per wheel) bc I didn’t hear anything till it was metal on metal? Thanks
Not sure what the Fords have but BWW uses sensors and few other makes do also. I think since many pads are interchangeable with other makes they tend not to put them on anymore or it depends on the pad brand. I have always felt my brakes degrading before the pads hit metal.
lefty hack
Well-Known Member
Great tutorial Overtow. I did the rears last year as they wore out way before the fronts. I didn’t even need new pads yet but the front rotors needed replaced or turned. I opted to replace. I have these brakes and rotors on another car of mine. Live them. Also maybe Overtow said this but just in case….. you just need a bigger hammer to get the rotors off 
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zak99b5
Full Access Members
Good write-up.
One suggestion—if you use the C-clamp on the caliper to compress the piston a bit after you remove the wheel, it’ll pop right off after you remove the slide pins. No need to pry/fight.
One suggestion—if you use the C-clamp on the caliper to compress the piston a bit after you remove the wheel, it’ll pop right off after you remove the slide pins. No need to pry/fight.
GlennSullivan
Full Access Members
If the "rumble" is a vibration coming from the front, it could be warping of the front rotors. All 3 of my Gen 3 Expeditions had this issue and the rotors needed to be trued / cut early on in their life. Cut rotors, problem gone, even though the pads were fine.
Is this correct? Ford wants you to discard the rear slide pin bolts, but not the front ones?
duneslider
Full Access Members
I haven't looked at the manual but I don't discard everytime but I do put a little blue loctite on. I did once have a caliper bolt come loose.
Yes, they want you to discard the bolt for front pads too, not the slide pin. The rear motorcraft pads came with the two new bolts.
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