Fuel Gauge

[z168]

thanks for the detailed post Bedrck. Do I jump the male or female C148?

 

[Bedrck47]

to be honest I forget but you want the one that goes toward the firewall

 

[Bedrck47]

should be the male

 

[ExplorerTom]

So the point in hooking up resistors to the harness is to see what? If the gauge can be fooled into working thus showing that it's good and it's the sendor that's bad?

On my ScanGauge, I programmed an Xgauge to show fuel level. I can only assume that it gets its reading from the same sendor. If my ScanGauge reading is showing 0.00, then I can probably rule out my dash gauge being bad- it's the sendor, right?

 

[stamp11127]

The point of hooking up the resistors is to supply the gauge with a min and max readings to verify the gauge.

Yes, the gauge you programmed uses the same sender. As long as the min and max resistance is met, and the gauge is accurate, then the problem is elsewhere. Keep in mind that corrosion adds resistance to the circuit which will give incorrect readings. If the 0.00 is measured resistance then the circuit is open.

 

[z168]

should be the male

Thanks again - will try it

 

[ExplorerTom]

It appears mine just started doing this.

Drove to the airport to pick up wife and kids. Got 17.8 mpgs on the total trip (Scangauge). Dropped them off and filled up with gas on my way back to work. Low Fuel light was on, 0 miles to empty was showing. Pumped nearly 24 gallons. Drove 11 miles to work and just as I was about to park, I noticed the low fuel light was still on and gauge was still showing empty.

Also my trip mpg on my Scangauge didn't reset.

The gauge energizes when the ignition is cycled: goes from the "dead" position to an attempt at an "empty" reading.

I ordered a new Delphi fuel pump and finally got around to tackling this project. Luckily, it was very obvious why my gauge didn't work when I took the fuel pump out (old left, new right):


Anybody see it?

The foam float had wallowed out the hole to the point where it could slip off the shaft. It was floating in the tank by itself.


I probably won't have this long enough for it to be a problem again, but I did this:


HOWEVER, if you are going to change your fuel pump, I strongly recommend you get a new tank pressure sensor at the same time. You need to transfer it from the old pump to the new pump. It's a 1/4 turn thing to release. Or, in my case, it's a lot of struggling and fussing and then the connector snaps in two.

Link:
Amazon.com: F88e-9c052-aa-

It's cheap online. NAPA had it for $90 but it would take a few days to get it. Didn't even want to know what it would cost at the dealer.

 

[z168]

Hey Tom, dumb question: Would it be a bad idea to pull my fuel pump and fish out my float and reattach em?

 

[ExplorerTom]

Wouldn't be a "bad" idea. But these pumps are known to have a limited life. While it's out, it would make great sense to replace the pump at the same time.

And the sendors are known to fail as well- at least that's the rumor. The sendor issues may all be linked to the float coming off. I'm not sure.

And if you do replace the pump, either get one with a new tank pressure sensor, or make sure to have a new one on hand. If you can reused the old one- great. Return the new one. If you snap it off like I did, you'll have it.

 

[Bedrck47]

It's cheap online. NAPA had it for $90 but it would take a few days to get it. Didn't even want to know what it would cost at the dealer.

Less than $50.00 on e-bay