Fuel Injection/Emission Problem on 2017

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Psychobot90

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That’s what hacked me off about the dealer—they said the purge was bad, but there could be other problems too. I had already tested the purge and thought it was good. I questioned the diagnostic and they said anything additional was additional whether the purge valve fixed it or not. I decided to do my own parts changing if that is how they operate. With 21K miles, how likely is it there are multiple failures in the system occurring simultaneously? Nil in my opinion, but if there is something else, the PCV is just as easily accessed and replaced if needed. But if it is not the purge valve, I think fuel pressure would be the next suspect—injection pressure sensor.
In my experience with these engines, one bad sensor could throw multiple codes for anything downstream. In the case of the ecoboost specifically, it could throw codes for upstream sensors as well since it's a closed system. Is there any way to verify a bad purge valve? Any way to test the existing part? Your codes could point to any one of several intake/exhaust related sensors. I guess back to my previous question; were you able to squeeze any of the reasoning out of Ford for this diagnosis? Did they provide any other possible culprits? What's your backup approach if the parts swap doesn't clear the codes?

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69Rustang

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In my experience with these engines, one bad sensor could throw multiple codes for anything downstream. In the case of the ecoboost specifically, it could throw codes for upstream sensors as well since it's a closed system. Is there any way to verify a bad purge valve? Any way to test the existing part? Your codes could point to any one of several intake/exhaust related sensors. I guess back to my previous question; were you able to squeeze any of the reasoning out of Ford for this diagnosis? Did they provide any other possible culprits? What's your backup approach of the parts swap doesn't clear the codes?

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The dealer was not forthcoming with information other than a part number and to say they have replaced a ton of the Purge Valves on this model. I initially ruled it out after some diagnostics, but that said, I was not fully rigorous with my diagnostic procedure. To fully test, I should have removed it fully and done a vacuum test and a power cycle to ensure it opens, closes, and seals. I know it opens, I know it can close, and I THINK it seals. That is why I moved on and was looking at the fuel pressure sensor. At that point I could not do testing at the pressures the 3.5 runs, so I took it to the dealer. Unfortunately they may not be capable or care to fully diagnose assuming they have the proper tools. What’s next? Pray I figure that out...
 

Psychobot90

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The dealer was not forthcoming with information other than a part number and to say they have replaced a ton of the Purge Valves on this model. I initially ruled it out after some diagnostics, but that said, I was not fully rigorous with my diagnostic procedure. To fully test, I should have removed it fully and done a vacuum test and a power cycle to ensure it opens, closes, and seals. I know it opens, I know it can close, and I THINK it seals. That is why I moved on and was looking at the fuel pressure sensor. At that point I could not do testing at the pressures the 3.5 runs, so I took it to the dealer. Unfortunately they may not be capable or care to fully diagnose assuming they have the proper tools. What’s next? Pray I figure that out...
Have you checked the PCV? Can you hear it rattling at idle? Is it clean? My bad PCV caused both of your codes to show on my '15.

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69Rustang

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The PCV rattles at idle—definitely listened for that. Actually put my hand on it to verify that was where the noise came from. Not sure if it is clean.
 

Psychobot90

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The PCV rattles at idle—definitely listened for that. Actually put my hand on it to verify that was where the noise came from. Not sure if it is clean.
It shouldn't rattle at idle... if it is, then the spring is bad. If you pull it and it rattles when you shake it then you have a bad part. I bought mine at a local Ford shop for $16. Might be worth exploring that before replacing the purge valve.

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Machete

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Well now my buddies 2018 F150 3.5 EB is dumping too much fuel into injectors.
Won’t start either.
 
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69Rustang

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Two things to update here:
1) I purchased a new PCV valve—there is no spring in the valve. It is loose just like the one in my car. I did not install it as yet as I want to isolate what the problem is, and I don’t believe this is it based on physical inspection.
2) the Purge valve arrived from RockAuto. It took me all of 7 minutes, 12 seconds to install it including two trips to the garage to get the right sized socket. That doesn’t include opening the outer shipping box, but it does include opening the box the part was in. Now I need to do a drive cycle to see if the light comes back on. Remember, Ford wanted $485 to do the same thing? The part was $80 with tax—I’m in the wrong line of work.

I will report back after the drive cycle.
 

99WhiteC5Coupe

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Two things to update here:
1) I purchased a new PCV valve—there is no spring in the valve. It is loose just like the one in my car. I did not install it as yet as I want to isolate what the problem is, and I don’t believe this is it based on physical inspection.
2) the Purge valve arrived from RockAuto. It took me all of 7 minutes, 12 seconds to install it including two trips to the garage to get the right sized socket. That doesn’t include opening the outer shipping box, but it does include opening the box the part was in. Now I need to do a drive cycle to see if the light comes back on. Remember, Ford wanted $485 to do the same thing? The part was $80 with tax—I’m in the wrong line of work.

I will report back after the drive cycle.


Where is the purge solenoid valve located?

PS - Did you assess yourself a mandatory shop supplies charge when you figured the $80 cost?
 
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69Rustang

69Rustang

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The purge valve is right on top of the motor on the left side, PCV is on the right (from drivers perspective. For the shop charge—you bet, the shop supplies fee is 2 Gin & Tonics last night, 2 more tonight. Still under the $485. ;)

I will post a picture of the valve later. It is three hose connections and a 2 pin.
 

07navi

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I hate the stealership even more now. You might as well throw that PCV valve in now if you haven't already. I would have done that first.
 
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69Rustang

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I hate the stealership even more now. You might as well throw that PCV valve in now if you haven't already. I would have done that first.

And lose the opportunity to make a big deal out of repairing this for my wife? This is pure gold! “That is a separate repair ma’am. You owe me...”
 
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69Rustang

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Well, so far so good. I did my best to follow the Ford drive cycle instructions yesterday, then my wife took it out today and put quite a few miles on it. We are flying out tomorrow so it won’t get driven for a bit. But hopefully it is resolved.
 

Psychobot90

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Well, so far so good. I did my best to follow the Ford drive cycle instructions yesterday, then my wife took it out today and put quite a few miles on it. We are flying out tomorrow so it won’t get driven for a bit. But hopefully it is resolved.
Did you install both parts?

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69Rustang

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Just the purge valve. Problem solving means changing only one thing at a time, or you don’t know what caused the shift in results. I put the part in I was most confident was the issue.
 
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69Rustang

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I wanted to circle back and update this—I haven’t had to open the hood since installing the purge valve. All good!
 

MADEXP

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Dang it -- I should have read this post...I just paid Ford $300 to replace my Purge Control Valve (#BL3Z-9B325-C). My Code was: P0443. Arghh....now, on with the drive cycle before I get the emissions test done....arrrgh...again. :) And, yes, I do have the Ford ESP PremiumCare and it does not cover this part. :(
 
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