fuel pump issue- would you agree?

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stamp11127

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You get what you pay for....don't know the exact brand I bought but it was a name brand that started with D.
 
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Jay87LX

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I went ahead and ordered a new pump and a set of Tank straps and mine, being from up here in the northeast are a bit rusty. I ordered from 1A auto. I'll report back once everything is installed
 
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Jay87LX

Jay87LX

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well, I installed the new pump today, truck started right up, then on the way home it cut out for a split second onm the highway but came right back, like I said it was a split second, then when I got off the exit and stopped at the light it died but I was able to start it right back up.
It seems to be happening when the truck gets hot- any ideas?
Faulty relay when it gets hot possibly?
 
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bedrck46

you could possibly swap the fuel pump relay with the trailer charge relay if the trailer relay is installed.
you may also want to pull the fuel pump relay and check the plug connections for any signs of corrosion clean them and coat them with dielectric grease also check fuse # 10 in the battery junction box under hood

also check the PCM relay and fuse #30 in the central junction box under dash

make sure all contact points of the relays and fuses are clean
 
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Jay87LX

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Ok. I will try all that. I also want to add that I know some expys have problems with leaking windshields leaking down and causing electrical gremlins but i dont believe that is my cause as it has not rained here in a long time so the truck hasnt gotten wet.
Also when it does cut out i still have power like radio, lights, ac fan etc.
also i know my battery is on the way out. It dies last week when i was cranking it trying to get it to start, i charged it while i was doing the fuel pump today but i know its still weak

Is there a chance i have a intermittent faulty PATS key as the PATS system controls fuel flow?
 
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stamp11127

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I think once the pats gives the ok to start it is a passive system until re-armed.
You can swap relays or jumper the fuel pump relay and drive for a while. Just remember to pull the jumper after the drive or the pump will continue running.
If I remember correctly Mass is a salt state in the winter, you may also have a corrosion problem with some of the electrical causing a power failure to the pump or possible the pcm.
For sheets and giggles check your battery cables for corrosion at both ends. Your interested in the first few inches of the cable at each end. You shouldn't see any build up and be nice and clean.
Don't condemn the battery without a full charge and then a load test. I use the old style toaster type tester, not the new fancy electronic razzel dazzel.
 
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Jay87LX

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do you know which ports in the relay or rather the distribution box to jump?
 

toms89

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When I had pats disable the engine I still had adequate fuel pressure. It either cuts injectors, ignition or both.

When yours shuts down is it always at closed throttle and if so is it immediately after you close it??

That's how I was reading your first few post. That's what led me to believe min airflow is not correct. Also why I did not suspect fuel problem. I would suspect fuel pressure issues to show up more under heavy load when the fuel demand is higher. You do need more minimum airflow at idle with higher loads obviously.

It can just as easily be electrical depending on the circumstance but you ruled that out in your first post for whatever reason.

Can you describe in more detail under what conditions it stalls? Clues are all in the details.... :)
 
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stamp11127

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OP: all it tells me is the fuel pump relay is in the battery junction box. Jump 30 to 87 where the relay plugs in and the pump is running.
 
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Jay87LX

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Thanks for the info Stamp

Tom,
It seems to happen when I have let off the throttle and am coasting to a stop like approaching a stop sign. Although Like I said in one of the posts it happened as the truck was sitting there idling while I was getting the mail. I have replaced the IAC as well

Although today after the Fuel Pump change as I was driving down the highway at 65mph the truck "sputtered" very quickly. the tack dropped to zero, the ck eng light came on but this happened for no more than half a second then it "caught itself" and continued running at highway speed.
 
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stamp11127

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Fuel pump isn't going to throw codes on the first gens. Pull the codes, I'm thinking egr but want proof before sending you in that direction.
 
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Jay87LX

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that would be my first thing to do if I had codes but it hasn't set any codes yet
 
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Jay87LX

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ok, so today on the way to the shop the truck ran fine, got to work, replaced the battery as it needed one. Left to go home drove all the way with no issues. But same thing as before when I pulled up to the mailbox and left it running it died, got back in, cranked for about 2-3 seconds and started, drove around the complex to my parking space, threw it in reverse and it died, started right back up.
I am at a loss now
New battery
new IAC
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
New plugs about 20K ago
No codes/ misfires etc

Could it be anything with the outside temp as it was cool this morning but hot this afternoon and it has been hot out every other time it died- Maybe a long shot but just trying to help out with as many clues as I can

Could it be a crank pos sensor on its way out or is that something that either works or don't

Edit: I just went to run an errand, temps are cooler and I didn't exceed 30 mph, all in town driving- truck didn't stall- Just trying to add more clues
 
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Jay87LX

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When the engine dies, does anything else electrical shut off?

No, not at all, thats what led me to think it was fuel related, the symptom was similar to it running out of gas, like today when i got out to get the mail and it died when i got back in the radio and A/C were still on
 

stamp11127

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Fuel pressure reading right after it dies would let you know if the fuel pump is shutting off.
How much rust is on the vehicle? If fuel isn't the problem the pcm may be losing power which would be a quick shutdown vs stumble as it is running out of fuel.
 

toms89

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Sounding more and more electrical related as far as random shutdown. That can be difficult to locate as it can be at any number of locations. Though closing throttle stall still sounds like minimum airflow to me?! Did you check the throttle body for buildup around throttle plate. (Can interrupt air flow at min throttle setting)
 
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Jay87LX

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The truck is a northeastern truck so there is rust
Looks like I will need to buy a fuel pressure guage
When all this first started and I changed the IAC I cleaned the throttle body


Stamp, Are you thinking a rusty ground connection from the PCM?
 

stamp11127

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If it is a poor connection it can be on the positive or negative side. We need to establish if it is a fuel pressure problem first before tearing into the electrical.

Logic to live by:

'...when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.'

Sherlock Holmes Quote
 
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Jay87LX

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I think I figured it out and fixed it
I went to the shop today, cleaned the TB again as well as the MAF.
As soon as I started to pull out of the shop it died and wouldn't restart. Cranked a few times and it finlaly fired up as well as set the CEL and then it died and wouldn't start.
I hooked up our Snap On MODIS and checked the code...P0320
P0320 Ford Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

I also cranked the engine over and noticed the MODIS wasn't showing and RPM which lead me to either Cam position sensor or Crankshaft position sensor.
I replaced both at $20 for the cam and $27 for the Crank. fired right up, took it home, stopped at the mailbox for good measure and it didn't die :)

Thanks again for everyones help!!!!!
 
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