How many miles on your 2nd Gen Ford Expedition?

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fe731as

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We have an '03 EB 4x4. (August 2002 build date), 238k miles. Mechanically, near perfect - cosmetically not so much*BUT self-induced(teaching my 14yr old how to drive, pushed my daughter's dead 07 Escape, Idaho snow bank...).
Replaced:
new fuel pump assy @ 96k miles
driver front wheel brng/hub assy @ 165k
serpentine belt + tensioner(bearing failure) @ 200k

Original engine, original transmission.
Mobil 1 5w-30 since about 44k miles. Engine has slight oil leak into the valley, but haven't found it yet.
I'm lucky - we've been in the desert southwest for all but 2 years of the vehicle's life - so no rust anywhere, and no leaks. Otherwise, near standard maintenance schedules for everything else.
Needs:
New tires (again)
Wants:
New radio
driver seat cover
 

CaptainKrunch

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First post here. This is going to be detailed as it might have some useful information for somebody for years into the future. I have a 2003 Expedition, Eddie Bauer. It only has 109k on it so it really doesn't fit among these high mileage guys. I bought it used in 2007 and it had about 42k on it. I bought it as a second vehicle and ended up crashing my main vehicle around 2012 or so and it has been my daily driver since. I have a short commute to work.

95% or my driving is city driving and I drive it pretty hard. I have gone through several batteries and still can't figure out why other than having a short commute. Parasitic draw is only 75 ma with aftermarket remote start. Original alternator went out and replaced with parts store alternator. The transmission went out about 87k. The snap ring inside the main clutch failed. Also when I took the pan off, the overdrive "servo" spring assembly was all jacked up, crooked and the snap ring holding it was in pieces. That cost was about $3300 for a rebuilt and I had them install a heavy duty machined steel main clutch by Sonnex.

Right rear passenger door switch gave me the door ajar issue. When I narrowed it down to this down I found the switch just fell apart so I bypassed it by connecting the wires together as I didn't feel like replacing the switch.

Things I have done as maintenance items are to drain and refill rear diff with synthetic gear oil. Fuel filter. Drained and refilled transfer case with correct Ford fluid. Mobil 1 5w20 with Motorcraft filters. Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses. Replaced spark plugs at about 100k with motorcraft plugs with no problems. Flushed coolant. Replaced 8 ignition coils at same time with aftermarket that had good ratings on Amazon. Flushed brake fluid. Replaced front rotors and pads with power stop rotors and ceramic pads. Installed ceramic pads on rear. This week I replaced all 4 struts with Bilstein 4600's because the ride was a little rough on our crappy roads. So far it seems like a better ride but I have only driven it about 5 miles since.

Optionally, I removed rear dvd player/screen and replaced it with an aftermarket 15 inch dvd system. I installed a pioneer 2330 NEX radio which i really like.

The big issue I had when I first got it that has caused me a ton of headaches was the leaky windshield and water dripping down on the central junction box fuse panel on the passenger side. Records showed the dealer tried to seal the windshield prior. After pressing on the windshield I could see daylight between the seal and frame of the truck. I went and had an OEM windshield installed for around $330. That problem went away. But ever since then with the battery jumping my heated and cooled seats stopped working and I have spent hours researching and testing. It appears they CCSM modules need reprogramming. It has been years that they have not worked. I called the dealer today and they want $180 each for the 2 modules to reprogram. Plus taxes and fees. F that. I might buy used modules and hope they still have programming.

The rear heat/ac blend door actuator has been clicking for a few years and I have been lazy so I just unplugged it a long time ago and didn't use the rear heat/ac. I ordered a new $35 part yesterday and I will replace it next week.

Had to replace the rear glass liftgate seal because the other one couldn't keep water out even after bending out the flange the seal attaches to.

The driver's side window, especially in the cold, would strain to go up. Usually this is just a quick spray of silicone on the side of the window channels. The issue with mine is where the glass seats into the rear metal bracket inside the door. The glass was not secured in this bracket and when it was cold it was more loose. As a result the bracket would tilt forward or back and cause a binding when going up. I lifted up the glass and cleaned out the bracket the best I could and then use the RV GOOP adhesive and filled that bracket. I set the glass back down in and squeezed more GOOP around like a fillet seal. I love that GOOP for all kinds of stuff. This was a couple years ago and I have not had a problem since.

I have had to recharge the a/c system a time or two. I have gauges to do that "properly"

Installed a larger rear Belltech 5550 sway bar recently. That made a big difference but I need to drive it more to see if there are any downsides. Yes this bar fits the 4x4. I paid about $200 at Jegs. I actually ordered the Roadmaster bar from etrailer and both sites said their rear bar would fit my truck. No way in hell was it even close. I sent it back and still waiting for a refund. I have been conversing with Roadmaster and they were genuinely concerned about it and asked me for pictures and such so they may have the right bar at some point.

I like my Expedition so much that in 2016, when i was a complete idiot, accidentally running a red light causing a guy to hit my right rear quarter panel, that I told the insurance guy I was not going total this car and that I was going to repair it no matter what. He worked with me and although I was right on the line for totaling it, we got it fixed. They had to use a donor panel and a bunch of other parts.

I also have the typical breakdown of the driver's seat bottom which is causing my seat cover to be damaged. I ordered a new foam seat bottom from the seat shop for about $125 and it will be here tomorrow. I may replace the actual cover at some point but not now.
 

jstar

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2003 XLT 2WD with 101,000 miles. Just picked it up last week!

What are you guys doing about rocker rust? My inner rockers are starting to go...I also found a hole in the passenger side floor pan about 3" across. The interior is stripped to address that. Looks like previous owner spilled something and left it. Does anyone know if 2007 inner rockers will fit a 2nd gen? I know 2nd gen outer rockers are a 99% fit. Other than that this vehicle doesn't need much attention. I also removed the rear bumper cover to wire brush and repaint the trailer hitch.
 

RichardH

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2003 EB. Picked up at 144K 9 months ago, now has 150,035. Runs great, but did spend a few bucks to get it up to *****, about $2500 in repairs/maintenance after all said and done. Also going to try the clay bar/lubricant & wax in a few weeks.

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Ty Markle

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New member first post... 03 5.4 4x4 217k
Fuel pump (tank drop, ouch).
I've blown 7 spark plugs (smh, I blame the guy that changed them).
Driver's side hub needs some love.
Mother board (that's when I learned my 03 is a early 03 and my mother board was incorrect so my check charging system light is always on. Everything is fine and they can't fix it with out putting in the correct mother board. (Another header shaker)
Rear air accuator knocks every once in awhile.
Side window molding started flaking off. Come to find out it's chrome like the Navigaters underneath so that was a nice surprise. Looks a lot nicer chrome.
Transmission just started slipping a couple weeks a go, I need to fix it.
TPS sensor needs replaced for the 2nd time. Bought that yesterday and will be doing that soon.
Alternator (had rebuilt).
Ashtray won't stay closed, I doubt yours does either. ;)
Moonroof leaks every now and then.
Has leaked oil since I've had it. Bought it with 37k miles on it. Supposedly they had a few of them with bad head gaskets that leak outside instead of inside I don't know how true that is.
Side molding rattles...or did, took me forever to source it and fix it. :) Electrical tape wrapped around the metal hinge the door locks to when shut helps with a rattle too.
My tailgate is starting to have paint popping in places. Not anywhere as bad as I've seen some others though.
My door sills have rusted really bad!!! That is crap too if you ask me. You'd think we've built cars long enough to where we shouldn't be putting up with any rust as soon as we are.
I'm sure I've forgotten a few things and everything considered it's been a great ride. I sold Ford's for years and if I could buy a new one I'd do so in a heart beat.
 
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LoneStarLoner

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2003 EB 5.4 RWD just hit 131,000. Purchased into 2014 with 85k on it. It has been an excellent truck for my wife and I and our three dogs. Replaced ball joints, had a complete tune up done, and replaced rear hvac temp control modules. Biggest issue was vehicle security module and having the interior lights turning on by themselves. Once that was replaced, keypad worked and had no other issues. Other than some minor repairs like a power window switch, it has been super dependable. (Still need to replace adjustable brake/gas pedal gear.) I did upgrade the stereo to a Bluetooth receiver (no video) and plan on ditching the super dated DVD player in the rear when I get around to it. Getting the hood and roof painted next weekend since both of the sides have been painted (had a couple of people reverse in to me on each side) Also put a set of KR 20”s with some Bridgestone dueler Alenza h/l plus 80k tires. Rear sway bar upgrade is next along with trying to find a more modern roof rack for it.

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Plati

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2003XLT 4x4 5.4 ... purchased new in 2003 ... 182K smiles
Runs like a BEAST.
Rocker panels beginning to show a little rust
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btw ... this shows that rocker panels rust FROM THE INSIDE OUT.
It's raw metal inside there, with big holes that allow water/salt IN

IMHO every Expy owner (in the rust belt) should oil the inside of their rocker panels annually in the fall and then close off those big holes with plugs or tape
 
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