How much disassembly to do full timing setup? 2008

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jcmeyer5

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I want to do timing chains, guides, tensioners, phasers (locked out), and oil pump on my 2008. I dont know the providence of this truck, and its making a lot of racket.

My problem is that I tried to start this project last weekend, and after nearly 3 hours, I couldnt get the driver side valve cover off. I had the coils out, the harness away, PVC tube off, vacuum tube off, the dipstick tube unbolted (gonna have to replace that, its rusted and the dipstick is stuck). The valve cover was free, just not coming off. I dont know if it was the hose to the coolant tank that was in the way or something I couldnt see. I put it back together to try another day

So I am looking for someone who has been there. For my next attempt at it, what all do I NEED to take off that isnt part of the engine? I am looking at taking out the coolant tank/airbox assembly (necessary?). I know the fan and shroud need to go. What else?
 

JollyRoger

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FordTechMakuloco has a great 4 part series on YouTube that walks you through the entire process. It's very detailed and interesting...I've watched it a couple times. I'll need to do the same thing eventually, and I'm confident I could pull this off after watching his videos a few times, but may just bite the bullet and pay to have it done. Anyway, go here for part 1:
 

rjdelp7

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There are plenty of videos on you tube. One guy claims, that engines are not worth fixing. There may some other damage and recommends replacing the whole engine. Ford makes tool to change the phaser, without front cover removal. Its called a cheese wedge or something. It locks the chain against the cover. It saves a ton of labor. Good luck!
 

peterwells

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So I'm doing a similar job myself, car in question was built in 04/2008. I did remove the coolant reservoir, and a line from the brake booster, I did not remove the harness that goes down the front of the driver's side to the oil pan (oil level/pressure?). The reservoir is straightforward to remove, couple of bolts and a hose quick connect (pick out the retaining metal clip and it pulls apart).

For me the passenger side valve cover was more of a fight, the AC lines at the front get in the way. I removed the battery tray that has the washer reservoir attached (needed to remove passenger headlight to access electrical connections and hoses).

Last tip I'd give is that the radiator and shroud are awkward, take your time.

Peter

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jcmeyer5

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Okay, so I did this job last week. I DID end up taking out the coolant reservoir/air box, but I think if you are just doing phasers, you can simply detach the coolant line to the reservoir and get the valve cover off that way. I of course took much more out than that because I did all the timing components.

I was successful. I replaced the oil pump, timing chains, guides, tensioners, phasers (opted for locked out units), timing gasket, and valve cover gaskets. The truck ran smoother and quieter than ever before (even when I bought it back with 80k miles on it). It ran so well that we decided not to trade it in on the 2014 Explorer Sport we just purchased.

I have had a couple set backs. First, the driver side valve cover gasket slipped out of the groove when installing, which caused a massive oil leak onto the exhaust pipes (if you live in northern Indiana and notice the mosquito population has plummeted... you are welcome). I pulled the valve cover again, cleaned it up, and used some RTV to tack the gasket in place. No more leakes.

The second setback is the vacuum line that goes to the booster that comes off the back on the intake. I think it popped off. The truck was running perfect, then it started running not perfect, and the power was gone from the power brakes. I havent found a good explanation of how to get to it or fix it. I'll start another thread for that (after I search of course).
 
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