How often do you swap out your brake rotors when doing pads?

[Fasttimes]

Need to get new pads, just curious what the consensus is on rotor replacement at the same time. My local shop swaps them out every time I take it there for a brake job, so I started doing my own pads lately instead. Figured if there was no scoring on the rotor face why change it?

 

[Shantheman73]

Need to get new pads, just curious what the consensus is on rotor replacement at the same time. My local shop swaps them out every time I take it there for a brake job, so I started doing my own pads lately instead. Figured if there was no scoring on the rotor face why change it?

I change the rotors whenever I do the pads.

There might not be scoring, but the pads mate to the rotors. When changing pads, it takes some time for the new ones to mate to the old rotors.

Additionally, I absolutely despise driving a vehicle with rotors that get warped. If you end up having to do the rotors before the pads are necessary...you’re basically doing two brake jobs when you could just do one and get ‘er all done at once.

There’s nothing wrong with NOT doing the rotors mind you, but I prefer to always do the pads/rotors together.


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[07navi]

As a former mechanic; excessive rotor changing is a ploy by garages to rip you off. My Excursion has over 200k miles on it with the original rotors. The trick is to not overheat them to the point of warping and pedal pulsations and listen for the slightest metal to metal contact, then put new pads in right away, and a bit of scoring never hurt anyone. I have owned at least 50 vehicles, never bought a rotor (for myself), and never had any brake problems.

 

[TobyU]

I only do them when needed. When they are warped or so grooved or rough you can feel them when you stop.

I always get at least 2 sets of pads sometimes 3 before I do the rotors.

I use local parts stores lifetime pads (store brand semi metallic most all the time) and just the standard lifetime ones. I don't even spring for the 6-12 more "Select" ones. All marketing on these anyway. Same compound as far as I can research but they pre-install as slightly thicker stick on backing plate/shim/silencer and charge you more.

For decades people have been convinces by shops to "always do (or at least turn) rotors with all new pads" or if you do left rotor you have to do right too or same with calipers.

This is not true except for it makes some people feel better.
Similar to the fact that the American people were trained that you must change oil every 3mo/3000 miles for over 30 years.

An new pad will seat in and work just fine on an old rotor as will an old pad with plenty of meat on it will work just fine on a new rotor if you were ever in that situation.

The caliper pins and the caliper piston not sticking or brake hose sticking and the caliper being able to slide freely on its mounts so it can squeeze evenly is FAR more important to even braking and long life than old vs new or components all being replaces at same time.

I used to have two sayings.... You selling it? Don't worry about it.
And Good enough for lease return.

I know...some people get all cautious because "It's your brakes!" Safety and all that.
Really kind of (one of my Dad's sayings) Straining a gnat and swallowing a camel...

People will go out and put new calipers and rotors and pads on a car and feel so good...BUT completely not realize the 12+ year old car its on has badly rusted brake lines and all those new components will matter very little when they hit the pedal and a line squirts fluid out and pedal sinks to floor.
This is often what happens on cars in rust belt states.

I has lost count of how many cars have done this to me.
Not like you crash. You still have either front or rear---for a while. Not great brakes but also with some parking brake use and lighter pedal application you can finish out the day by filling up master cyl 2-3 times and going easy.

New rotors make no difference in real world what commonly happen events.

People say " I want to have best brakes as possible so it is worth it to me"
In reality you would notice little to no difference in stopping ability or even distance in comparison panic tests....So it is really a moot point but people will do what makes them feel better..BUT they shouldn't and the industry shouldn't tell people there is a right and wrong way!

 

[07navi]

I only do them when needed. When they are warped or so grooved or rough you can feel them when you stop.

I always get at least 2 sets of pads sometimes 3 before I do the rotors.

I use local parts stores lifetime pads (store brand semi metallic most all the time) and just the standard lifetime ones. I don't even spring for the 6-12 more "Select" ones. All marketing on these anyway. Same compound as far as I can research but they pre-install as slightly thicker stick on backing plate/shim/silencer and charge you more.

For decades people have been convinces by shops to "always do (or at least turn) rotors with all new pads" or if you do left rotor you have to do right too or same with calipers.

This is not true except for it makes some people feel better.
Similar to the fact that the American people were trained that you must change oil every 3mo/3000 miles for over 30 years.

An new pad will seat in and work just fine on an old rotor as will an old pad with plenty of meat on it will work just fine on a new rotor if you were ever in that situation.

The caliper pins and the caliper piston not sticking or brake hose sticking and the caliper being able to slide freely on its mounts so it can squeeze evenly is FAR more important to even braking and long life than old vs new or components all being replaces at same time.

I used to have two sayings.... You selling it? Don't worry about it.
And Good enough for lease return.

I know...some people get all cautious because "It's your brakes!" Safety and all that.
Really kind of (one of my Dad's sayings) Straining a gnat and swallowing a camel...

People will go out and put new calipers and rotors and pads on a car and feel so good...BUT completely not realize the 12+ year old car its on has badly rusted brake lines and all those new components will matter very little when they hit the pedal and a line squirts fluid out and pedal sinks to floor.
This is often what happens on cars in rust belt states.

I has lost count of how many cars have done this to me.
Not like you crash. You still have either front or rear---for a while. Not great brakes but also with some parking brake use and lighter pedal application you can finish out the day by filling up master cyl 2-3 times and going easy.

New rotors make no difference in real world what commonly happen events.

People say " I want to have best brakes as possible so it is worth it to me"
In reality you would notice little to no difference in stopping ability or even distance in comparison panic tests....So it is really a moot point but people will do what makes them feel better..BUT they shouldn't and the industry shouldn't tell people there is a right and wrong way!

I totally agree with everything you said.

 

[Shantheman73]

I change the rotors whenever I do the pads.

There might not be scoring, but the pads mate to the rotors. When changing pads, it takes some time for the new ones to mate to the old rotors.

Additionally, I absolutely despise driving a vehicle with rotors that get warped. If you end up having to do the rotors before the pads are necessary...you’re basically doing two brake jobs when you could just do one and get ‘er all done at once.

There’s nothing wrong with NOT doing the rotors mind you, but I prefer to always do the pads/rotors together.


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll add that I always do my own brakes. Don’t trust shops anymore...too many minimum wage workers rushing to get cars in and out.

So doing rotors and pads for me are still cheaper than doing just the pads at a shop.


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Plati]

Need to get new pads, just curious what the consensus is on rotor replacement at the same time. My local shop swaps them out every time I take it there for a brake job, so I started doing my own pads lately instead. Figured if there was no scoring on the rotor face why change it?

For me ... depends on my current financial situation, the goals for the vehicle, condition of rotors, front or rear, other factors. My 2003 BEATER I might have just slapped some new pads on if rotors not too bad. My 2014EL I want the vehicle in as close to like new condition as possible when I do something like brakes since I drive this on long trips and maintain it to high standards.

On an older Expy, the rear rotors can build up a corrosion ridge inside the rear due the parking "brake in hat" crappy design making it difficult to remove rotors if you wait a long time to do it. I've had to use a sledgehammer to get old rotors off. So I'd just as soon replace rotors with pads and start fresh.

Even front rotors can be difficult to remove if on there too many years. Doable though.
Generally I find it better to take things apart and clean up rust when servicing.

Over the years I've had no issue with just doing pads. Never had a problem.
They seat right in to the mountains and valleys in the old rotor.

Situational. Rotors seem cheap though if doing the work yourself.
But if I have to choose between a couple cases of BEER and new rotors?

 

[07navi]

For me ... depends on my current financial situation, the goals for the vehicle, condition of rotors, front or rear, other factors. My 2003 BEATER I might have just slapped some new pads on if rotors not too bad. My 2014EL I want the vehicle in as close to like new condition as possible when I do something like brakes since I drive this on long trips and maintain it to high standards.

On an older Expy, the rear rotors can build up a corrosion ridge inside the rear due the parking "brake in hat" crappy design making it difficult to remove rotors if you wait a long time to do it. I've had to use a sledgehammer to get old rotors off. So I'd just as soon replace rotors with pads and start fresh.

Even front rotors can be difficult to remove if on there too many years. Doable though.
Generally I find it better to take things apart and clean up rust when servicing.

Over the years I've had no issue with just doing pads. Never had a problem.
They seat right in to the mountains and valleys in the old rotor.

Situational. Rotors seem cheap though if doing the work yourself.
But if I have to choose between a couple cases of BEER and new rotors?

Choose the beer, waaaay too many rotors are needlessly replaced.

 

[aagitch]

If my rotors are performing just fine at the time of brake pad change, the only way I would still replace the rotors is if they were rusty looking and you could see them with the wheels on. They would be replaced with coated rotors. I can't stand looking at a nice vehicle with rusty (non-pad contact) areas on rotors.

 

[Aspen03]

I slapped some cheap rear pads on mine about 6 weeks ago. Rotors were fine though kinda crusty looking, I'll do painted/coated ones. Planning a full brake job this spring anyway. The fronts will probably be due by mid April based on my current mileage habits. I have a little pulsing in the pedal but not terrible. I want to do it once so it's getting new rotors and pads all around. It should last awhile and I need replace parking brake components anyway so the rears will be off again.

 

[07navi]

If my rotors are performing just fine at the time of brake pad change, the only way I would still replace the rotors is if they were rusty looking and you could see them with the wheels on. They would be replaced with coated rotors. I can't stand looking at a nice vehicle with rusty (non-pad contact) areas on rotors.

Yea those slightly rusted rotors ruin that whole car, I have to hide my eyes sometimes.

 

[Trainmaster]

I use ceramic pads, which are easier on the rotors than metallic. I usually get two or three change of pads before I have to change rotors, perhaps 100,000 miles or so. Sometimes they rust so bad they have to be changed also. That's not uncommon with the rears, again at perhaps 100,00 miles along with the parking brake shoes and hardware.

 

[Black]

I always at least have the rotors turned. $20 a pair is a no brainer to start fresh. If they aren’t thick enough to be turned they get replaced.
Make sure to sand the rust off the hub face and torque lug nuts properly.

 

[TobyU]

I always at least have the rotors turned. $20 a pair is a no brainer to start fresh. If they aren’t thick enough to be turned they get replaced.
Make sure to sand the rust off the hub face and torque lug nuts properly.

The prob is they will rarely be thick enough to turn
They design it this way to sell rotors.
It really is all a scam from the ground up.
If they aren't pulsing then knock the outer edge off with a file, grinding disc, sanding pad etc and get all the life out of them.

 

[07navi]

I always at least have the rotors turned. $20 a pair is a no brainer to start fresh. If they aren’t thick enough to be turned they get replaced.
Make sure to sand the rust off the hub face and torque lug nuts properly.

More of a yes brainer, why needlessly remove more and more metal? That's why my Excursion has the original rotors at 200k miles and they have worked great in the 12 years I owned it.

 

[Black]

The prob is they will rarely be thick enough to turn
They design it this way to sell rotors.
It really is all a scam from the ground up.
If they aren't pulsing then knock the outer edge off with a file, grinding disc, sanding pad etc and get all the life out of them.

Never had an issue getting 2 turns out of them.
Over the years have used PBR, Brembo, Bosch, MotorCraft, and NAPA Premium.

More of a yes brainer, why needlessly remove more and more metal? That's why my Excursion has the original rotors at 200k miles and they have worked great in the 12 years I owned it.

Because you know for sure you are smooth as can be and free of contaminants.
Considering you can generally get 2 turns out of a good rotor. That’ll take one at least 100k miles. I have only driven 2 cars more than 100k.

I have had lots of cars and can only think of once did I buy a second set of rotors (per axle). That was my wife’s Highlander I put Brembo pads on with Bosch rotors.
Those pads started screaming and grinding after about 3 months. I pulled them and the pads had pretty much disintegrated and scored the rotors all to hell.
I am presuming I got a set of counterfeit pads. No way was I going to risk those rotors even after a turn.

Brakes are one of the most important safety features I want good life out of them but me driving a vehicle 200k miles likely will never happen.

I generally buy used vehicles so if I can’t figure out what brand brakes are on it they get replaced pretty quick.

 

[coupe11]

Yeah, I only change them due to damage or if the caliper fails (locks up/drags and heats the rotor up.)

05 Silverado has about 125,000 miles on it. Had to put new rotors, calipers, pads and hoses up front last year when the left side caliper locked up.

86 IROC has the original calipers and rotors on it but by now I'm sure the rotors need to be replaced. I seldom drive it these days but at it's last inspection I was told the rotors were getting close to the minimum thickness.

I'll be replacing the rear rotors/pads/parking brake pads on the 14 Expedition before long. I didn't notice (when I bought it) that the right rear caliper was gouged up pretty badly. If I'm going to replace one rotor I'm replacing both. Replacing the rotors means I'm replacing the pads. I really have to stand on the parking brake pedal to get it to hold the Expedition in place so I figure those are on the thin side, too.

Looks like someone put new pads on the rear of it, they just didn't replace that rotor.

 

[07navi]

Never had an issue getting 2 turns out of them.
Over the years have used PBR, Brembo, Bosch, MotorCraft, and NAPA Premium.




Because you know for sure you are smooth as can be and free of contaminants.
Considering you can generally get 2 turns out of a good rotor. That’ll take one at least 100k miles. I have only driven 2 cars more than 100k.

I have had lots of cars and can only think of once did I buy a second set of rotors (per axle). That was my wife’s Highlander I put Brembo pads on with Bosch rotors.
Those pads started screaming and grinding after about 3 months. I pulled them and the pads had pretty much disintegrated and scored the rotors all to hell.
I am presuming I got a set of counterfeit pads. No way was I going to risk those rotors even after a turn.

Brakes are one of the most important safety features I want good life out of them but me driving a vehicle 200k miles likely will never happen.

I generally buy used vehicles so if I can’t figure out what brand brakes are on it they get replaced pretty quick.

 

[07navi]

Plenty smooth and no contaminants but to each their own

 

[TobyU]

Never had an issue getting 2 turns out of them..

Most of the ones I deal with are Factory original rotors and many have never been turned but they are often on their second or third set of pads.
You might be able to turn them the first time you replace pads but rarely can you do it the second time. Now maybe you replace your pads you're right pads before they are fully used.
I never replace a brake pad until it hits the chirper or until it's down to those same similar end of life thicknesses.
That would make a world of difference. If you believe these garages and stuff and what they tell you when they rotate your tires they will tell you you're down to 20 or 30% and need new brake pads when you're actually at 70.
If you replace your brake pads after 35 to 50,000 miles and they were capable of going 75 to 85 or more then the rotor erosion is going to be so little that you probably can turn them.
But when you use the entire life of the pad and get 65 to 80 thousand miles out of the set it's highly unlikely they will be enough rotor thickness to turn them. Definitely not on the second set of pads.

I rarely purchase a vehicle with under a hundred thousand miles.
I did just buy two vehicles in the past year, one with 49k and the other with 84k but that is a real rarity for me and I just happened to find some really low mileage old ones.

The vehicles I buy are usually at least on their first replacement set of brake pads and sometimes rotors.
There's really little reason to worry about them. When the pads wear thin you will hit a wear indicator and hear them chirping or you will feel them grinding or often if you pay attention you can feel a difference when the pad material starts to get thin and know you better inspect them, or you can look in through the wheel and around back with a bright flashlight and usually tell without having to remove the wheel or if the rotors get warped you'll feel a pulsation or surging in the pedal.... so really it makes little difference. The car is going to stop just fine. When there is a problem and needs attention, it will let you know.
As I said earlier, these types of issues even warp rotors and such don't really reduce your braking ability or make the car less safe. But what does, and what most people overlook and fail to even inspect, are the brake lines and the things that over the years will get rusty and dangerous and right on the verge of popping a pinhole and squirting brake fluid everywhere and losing pedal pressure and a great deal of your stopping ability.
Even with high quality, high performance rotors calipers brake pads and the slider pins and everything in perfect working order make little difference when you happen to have to stop very hard one day and you popping crusty spot on a brake line and your pedal sinks down to the floor and gets mushy.