How often do you swap out your brake rotors when doing pads?

[07navi]

'04 Expy bought new, has 195,000 on original rotors.

Yea, they last forever unless they warp. My Excursion has 200k miles on the original rotors. One of the rotors was rough from a pad that was metal to metal when I bought it but I took a grinding disc to it. Overall I have had ZERO problems with the brakes and glad I never weakened them by turning the rotors. Sure they look nice and new after turning but so do my shoes after shining them.

 

[TobyU]

Yea, they last forever unless they warp. My Excursion has 200k miles on the original rotors. One of the rotors was rough from a pad that was metal to metal when I bought it but I took a grinding disc to it. Overall I have had ZERO problems with the brakes and glad I never weakened them by turning the rotors. Sure they look nice and new after turning but so do my shoes after shining them.

Yes, no reason to do anything to them as long as they're not warped or pulsating.
Also, there is a lot of information about rotors that are warped and then turned will rewarp again quickly.

 

[rjdelp7]

Take a large hammer and knock the crust build up(if any) on the outer edge. 2-3 sets of pads per rotor, maybe more. My originals got changed at 90K. My mothers 42Kmi Lincoln MKZ were completely shot and severely rusted on the back side. It was not noticeable until I pulled them off. Mercedes dealers always change rotors with pads. If money isn't an issue just change them.

 

[Calidad]

As a former mechanic; excessive rotor changing is a ploy by garages to rip you off. My Excursion has over 200k miles on it with the original rotors. The trick is to not overheat them to the point of warping and pedal pulsations and listen for the slightest metal to metal contact, then put new pads in right away, and a bit of scoring never hurt anyone. I have owned at least 50 vehicles, never bought a rotor (for myself), and never had any brake problems.

What he said

They swap out quality stock rotors for cheaper stuff but your paying $$$.

I had all kinds of brake issues on three different vehicles yrs ago all were “dealer” / shopified brake “jobs”. I quit taking them to shops and did my own. From that point on zero issues!!!! Except once my brand new Rotors on my 150,000 mile Landcruiser were specifically noted to be left alone during a axle/knuckle seal job. At pickup they proudly stated they turned my rotors for me given they were off for the job. I asked them to grab a micro meter we measured and no joke they turned 60% of the meat off my new rotors. This was a dealer. I even had my parts dept papers in the glove box. The service manager walked over and personally carried my new rotors out to the truck.

My Subarus all were 180,000 with original rotors still in spec, same with the VW and at 150,000 my Landcruiser which had tiny discs was getting some high spots so I simply replaced them given they were 19yrs old. My Sequoia same deal.
All I do is check spec and put new pads on. Haven’t had a single issue or pulseing breaks since taking over the brakes from the “shops”

 

[parkerdoug383]

Need to get new pads, just curious what the consensus is on rotor replacement at the same time. My local shop swaps them out every time I take it there for a brake job, so I started doing my own pads lately instead. Figured if there was no scoring on the rotor face why change it?

 

[Machete]

Quality rotors are inexpensive. Replacement every time is simple, adds 15 minutes to each corner. I also find for my style of driving and towing new rotors mated to fresh pads gives me better stopping power and longevity over longer intervals.

So since it’s cheap and easy why not if it’s better overall.

 

[TobyU]

Quality rotors are inexpensive. Replacement every time is simple, adds 15 minutes to each corner. I also find for my style of driving and towing new rotors mated to fresh pads gives me better stopping power and longevity over longer intervals.

So since it’s cheap and easy why not if it’s better overall.

Any extra stopping ability is slight but you can notice more when towing.
Very little to no difference if the old rotors are turned because this gives you just as good of a surface as a brand new rotor but as I mentioned before most of the time, rotors can't be turned anyway. At least this is my experience but this is when the rotors and pads have had many many miles together. People who change their brakes at 30 or 40 thousand on they still have supposed to have pad left should be able to turn the rotors. My theory is there was no point in taking them apart in the first place.
So, vs just slapping a new set of pads on old somewhat grooved rotors, putting new rotors on with a new pads well normally give at least a slightly improved feeling.
I will also say they when you have older rotors and put new pads on the braking will actually get better in just a few days.
But either way you go, your vehicle should be able to be safely stopped no problems.

 

[07navi]

Quality rotors are inexpensive. Replacement every time is simple, adds 15 minutes to each corner. I also find for my style of driving and towing new rotors mated to fresh pads gives me better stopping power and longevity over longer intervals.

So since it’s cheap and easy why not if it’s better overall.

see post # 31

 

[Jay Echstenkamper]

Every other set of pads. I alos take the brakes apart everytime I rotate the wheels and make sure everything slides right and apply brake lube to the slides since the pistons only apply pressure from one side of the caliper. The piston sides always wears out with 75% left on the otbd side. This cuts that in half and prevents overheating the inbd side of the rotor. As for the rear they wear half as fast as the front. Also at this time I spray all the little moving suspension components with the best spray lube in the garage and really smooth out the ride.

 

[TobyU]

Every other set of pads. I alos take the brakes apart everytime I rotate the wheels and make sure everything slides right and apply brake lube to the slides since the pistons only apply pressure from one side of the caliper. The piston sides always wears out with 75% left on the otbd side. This cuts that in half and prevents overheating the inbd side of the rotor. As for the rear they wear half as fast as the front. Also at this time I spray all the little moving suspension components with the best spray lube in the garage and really smooth out the ride.

I guess you mean the stats are just for your vehicle. Wow many times the inner pad will wear out before the outer pan it's not necessarily always the case. Somewhere absolutely evenly and even on occasion I've seen the outer pad wear faster.
You are correct it's very important for the caliper pins to slide freely. When you put it back together with the piston Preston you should be able to slide the caliper with just mild to moderate hand Force back and forth on its pens. Otherwise you will get where issues and you can even get a pad that is worn excessively from the front to the back of the pad.

Some cars have rear brakes that last many times longer than the fronts. I have had vehicles be on their third or fourth set of front pads and the rear still had at least 20%.

Not every one of the same make and model and year of vehicle is the same either and driving style has a lot to do with it.

I don't have any set time frame or every other or set up like that that I follow. I do them when they need them.