How to remove factory front rotors

[Yupster Dog]

The bracket is defiantly strong enough.

The brackets I took off were still lined up perfectly I put the new rotor and caliper on before I changed them.

If you take it slow tighten release turn rotor, tighten release turn rotor, and repeat.
the brackets will still be looking good.

The only thing that gets scared up is the rotor you are getting rid of.

The only reason I change the brackets is putting a lot of force in a different direction than it was intended on the bracket. And I don't take chances with brake system.

After all day bending over prying with pipes and swinging hammers big and small, sitting down with a bolt and a socket wrench popping it off? What is your time and energy worth?

There is a huge difference between the force a sledge hammer and the constant force you get with the bolt. You are only getting 1/4 of the force you think your getting with the sledge because everything you are hitting is moving and you loose all your force.

 

[tdappleman]

The bracket is defiantly strong enough.

The brackets I took off were still lined up perfectly I put the new rotor and caliper on before I changed them.

If you take it slow tighten release turn rotor, tighten release turn rotor, and repeat.
the brackets will still be looking good.

The only thing that gets scared up is the rotor you are getting rid of.

The only reason I change the brackets is putting a lot of force in a different direction than it was intended on the bracket. And I don't take chances with brake system.

After all day bending over prying with pipes and swinging hammers big and small, sitting down with a bolt and a socket wrench popping it off? What is your time and energy worth?


There is a huge difference between the force a sledge hammer and the constant force you get with the bolt. You are only getting 1/4 of the force you think your getting with the sledge because everything you are hitting is moving and you loose all your force.

Let me say I'm a mechanic - just sold my shop after 11 years to semi retire. So I have plenty of experience plus ASE certification to go with it. I've seen caliper brackets break and also weaken from things like this which leads to failures down the road. My time is worth quite a bit so was my customer's time which is why I would only recommend the sledge and penetrating oil + heat if necessary.

 

[tdappleman]

I don't understand the aversion to using PB Blaster or other penetrant. Why would it contaminate the new rotors or pads if you were careful to wash it all off, and wash your hands/put on a fresh set of gloves?

I guess this method would be fine if you didn't care if your caliper bracket got bent, e.g., you were putting on a new one.

I'm about to do this job, so we'll see.

There is no reason to avoid using a penetrating oil. Once the rotor is off the hub has to be cleaned well anyway to ensure the new rotor sits flush. The new rotors have to be cleaned as well - have plenty of brake clean on hand. Gloves are what I always used - changed them after the old parts came off and the hub cleaning was done.

 

[Frank Wilson]

On my old f150 I used Sawzall an gingerly cut a kerf across the rotor face. Light tap with a hammer and it split open a couple thousands and fell off.

 

[purevw]

Rotors and drums have been seizing to hubs for as long as I can remember. I've always used an air chisel with a hammer bit. Just give a quick shot to the areas between the wheel studs. It's never failed and never damaged anything. I agree with the others that PB parts blaster will do no harm, as you should clean everything with Brakleen regardless.