I don't own her yet but could later today.

[Anthony G]

Hello everyone. First time potential owner of a Expedition here, maybe, depending on what ya'll say and the test drive.

I'm looking at a 1998 Eddie Bower 4x4 with the 5.4. I've spent the last couple of days reading what I could on the web, watching a few videos on youtube, time to make a decision. First, the bad news. It has north of 250,000 miles on it. I did not run a full carfax on it but other VIN checks and etc show almost no maintenance records at all. The last one was in 2010. It will need tires by the end of the summer. I haven't been in the truck yet but looking in the side windows shows the drivers seat covered with a seat cover, the rest of the interior looks pretty good. Moving on, the body has no dents, it does have numerous door nicks and other paint imperfections. The original wheels are all there, the glass is good, although I don't remember if I took a hard look at the front windscreen so I can't say for sure the front glass is not cracked. There are no deposits on the tailpipe. Seriously, that tailpipe is barely even black. My finger was completely clean after rubbing on that. No, the tailpipe is not new. it looks the age of the vehicle. I've got a lot of looking to do today, mainly for all the rust spots the web advises to look for....see how she does on the test drive, test the 4x4 system...all that stuff. I'm aware of the spark plug issues with the Triton

The owner wants 1400 for this old beast. What do you all think?

 

[parkerdoug383]

If it passes a good test drive offer him 1200 I don't see how you can go wrong.

 

[stamp11127]

No way the original tailpipe would be that clean with that many miles on the clock.
Keep in mind at the mileage it has:
The engine is worn
The transmission is worn
The cooling system is a known problem if not taken care of correctly - waterpump, heater core and radiator
U joints
Brakes
EGR service
Head gaskets have been known to fail or leak oil

Check the color of the engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant.
None of them should be off color - coolant should not be milk chocolate, oil should not be super brown or black.
My little trick is to look between the driver seat and console. Most people don't clean there when trying to sell a vehicle. It can be a good indicator of how well it was taken care of.

 

[1955moose]

On top of what Stamp stated so eloquently, is the big question, are you talented enough to do the repairs that very likely will be needed? If not, one major repair can be the price of the vehicle. No service records is never a good thing. Oh well, if you do buy it, we'll all have something to talk you through. You might want to have a shop, or talented friend do an A to Z inspection before you buy. 250k is normal miles for a 21 year old vehicle, but still real high for an original everything, no reman motor, transmission.

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[Anthony G]

Thank you for replying. I agree with you. That pipe is too clean. But, it is weathered in and has the patina it should. Maybe it was replaced a couple of years ago. Still should have some carbon or something though. I'll check everything I can think of. I'm decently handy with things and am not afraid to wipe a bit of oil on my jeans. I know this truck is a potentially huge project. I'm just wondering what to do here. Thanks for the tip about the console, thats a new one and a good one.

 

[Anthony G]

On top of what Stamp stated so eloquently, is the big question, are you talented enough to do the repairs that very likely will be needed? If not, one major repair can be the price of the vehicle. No service records is never a good thing. Oh well, if you do buy it, we'll all have something to talk you through. You might want to have a shop, or talented friend do an A to Z inspection before you buy. 250k is normal miles for a 21 year old vehicle, but still real high for an original everything, no reman motor, transmission.

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Think I screwed up the first response but think I got it now. Responded to Stamp and it was a separate post and I can't seem to be able to delete the post with only a quote. Anyway, am I talented enough. Maybe. I feel good about doing front end work, ball joints, tie rod ends and etc. I'm pretty sure I can change the spark plugs, I can remove fuel rails and brackets and such. I always do my own oil changes and brakes and things of that nature. Anything more complex than that, I simply do not have the shop for it. I'm very leery about high mile vehicles so yeah, this one is a bit of a concern. Well, test drive will tell I guess. Thank everyone for their time and effort and great replies.

Till later
Tony
'

 

[stamp11127]

On your test drive cruise around 45-50 mph and watch the tach. The tc may kick in & out of lockup or hunt for gears at other speeds. If the tach bounces rpms (100-200) then there are issues.
Also test the 4x4 operation, there have been quite a few issues with those engaging and with the hubs.

 

[Adieu]

What's the goal?

Cheap general everyday transportation? Offroad build project truck? Camping/hunting vehicle? Cargo hauler?

Are you hoping for something that doesn't require any more expenses at all or planning to sink money into it? How much money are you willing to spend, or how many miles are you hoping to get out of it without spending any?

 

[Anthony G]

On your test drive cruise around 45-50 mph and watch the tach. The tc may kick in & out of lockup or hunt for gears at other speeds. If the tach bounces rpms (100-200) then there are issues.
Also test the 4x4 operation, there have been quite a few issues with those engaging and with the hubs.

Thank you. I'm one foot out the door to go see this vehicle. I'll keep an ear and eye out for torque converter not staying engaged like that, and we are out in the boonies so it is easy to find a fireroad to test the 4 by 4 system. I wanted to run around a bit on bumpy dirt roads to hear and feels things too.

 

[Anthony G]

What's the goal?

Cheap general everyday transportation? Offroad build project truck? Camping/hunting vehicle? Cargo hauler?

Are you hoping for something that doesn't require any more expenses at all or planning to sink money into it? How much money are you willing to spend, or how many miles are you hoping to get out of it without spending any?

Hi
This is not for towing of for other really rough work. It will see some dirt road work and even some off roading, nothing even close to it's limits. I'm basically tired of mid sized vehicles. I want this to be my runaround and I like to keep my cars fairly stock. RIght now, I'm hoping she would go maybe 20.000 miles without having to sink a bundle, thats 3-4 years with the miles I drive a year. To put it into perspective, the trip computer on my current car says for years I average under 30 miles an hour on average. The longest trips I make are about 2 hours one way and I do that 4 times a year or so. Incidentally, I'll find out if I buy it I guess but is this class of vehicle more expensive to insure than a mid size 4 cylinder SUV? Yes I know my mileage will be 1/3 of my current car hehe

 

[Adieu]

Hi
This is not for towing of for other really rough work. It will see some dirt road work and even some off roading, nothing even close to it's limits. I'm basically tired of mid sized vehicles. I want this to be my runaround and I like to keep my cars fairly stock. RIght now, I'm hoping she would go maybe 20.000 miles without having to sink a bundle, thats 3-4 years with the miles I drive a year. To put it into perspective, the trip computer on my current car says for years I average under 30 miles an hour on average. The longest trips I make are about 2 hours one way and I do that 4 times a year or so. Incidentally, I'll find out if I buy it I guess but is this class of vehicle more expensive to insure than a mid size 4 cylinder SUV? Yes I know my mileage will be 1/3 of my current car hehe

Well, for starters, hopefully you're insuring the thing as minimal liability only....

But the reason I'm asking is, dunno if you're aware or not, but you can get Expeditions 10 years younger and half that mileage starting around twice that price --- mostly $3 - 4k, but some cheaper --- from our dear gubmint (Fleet SSV models, typically used by Forestry Services, Fire Marshalls, some police for non-pursuit duties, etc)

The interior appointments of the fleet models are somewhat lacking, but offroad/crap road capability is actually higher than civilian model (skid plates come stock) and maintenance on them is pretty much cheaper than any other vehicle you can buy in America

It'll probably cost you much less in the long run, if you can afford it.

 

[parkerdoug383]

Your overthinking this for the money if you get a good test drive go for it just check the suspension ball joints etc. You could buy a much newer one and if it needs front end work that could be 12 to 14 hundred alone.

 

[parkerdoug383]

Your overthinking this if you get a good test drive go for it just make sure you check the suspension ball joints etc.you could buy a much newer one and if it needs front end work that could be 12 to 14 hundred alone I just made that mistake.

 

[Anthony G]

Well, the good.....
173000 miles, the truck is as clean as it could be underneath. The thing was parked for at least 2 days that I'm aware of in the same spot and there is not a drop of oil under it. The rear dif and the transfer case are a bit wet along the bottom, seeping I bit but not dripping. The motor runs strong, the trans fluid is pink and clean and does not smell burnt. Oil looks good although it was half a quart low. The interior is dirty but elbow grease will fix that pretty well. Oh, the 4x4 system works great in both 4 low and 4 high.
The bad
ABS light is on along with the engine light. The cat's have been removed. The job looks professionally done with good bead on the welds. I'm concerned about the transmission, it seems to judder or shudder a bit right on the up shift from 1-2 or 2-3....can't remember now. Cracked windshield.
Overall, I didn't buy it on the spot due to the ABS light and the possible transmission issue. I couldn't tell if it was a rough pavement or if the transmission really is shuddering a bit. I told him I didn't want to make an impulse buy and decide later. GUy seems to be a bit of a car flipper working from his home. He mentioned selling lots of cars and he had 2 others for sale. so I'm pondering.

 

[Yupster Dog]

It's all about the test drive,
walk the vehicle, all doors open and close properly? All the lights work? any visible damage on wheels? open hood, wires or hoses that go nowhere, cracks in the belt (underside) Check passenger side of engine under heater hoses for signs of leaking. Battery check if you see a year and month also look at connectors. Is the radiator in good condition? check the radiator mount for rusting out. Look under vehicle at each wheel. checking for leaks at the caliper and brake lines. looking for over all rust underneath and major bumps and scrapes to the bottom of anything and look where it looks wet.
Get in the vehicle start it up (cut radio off) and listen for any abnormal sounds. Test everything, all bells and whistles, windows, door locks (all of them don't forget rear door) and test buttons on every door. Foot pedals, seat controls, windshield wipers front and back AC and heat defrost and vent floor and rear AC/heat panel floor mirror adjusters Sun roof Side window vents.
And anything that did not work you can use as a bargaining chip to get the price down so be thorough.

test drive, slow take offs and fast take offs, slow braking and fast braking including slamming on brakes to test ABS. Does the steering wheel have play in it? slow corners to the right and left and fast corners to the left and right.( how did it feel? there should be no jerking at all) go into a parking lot and do tight circles to the left and right.(note if in AWD it will jump on tight circles but no clanking should happen) and while you are in the parking lot check 4 wheel drive high and low and AWD. (how did it switch between them?)Any clanking or jerking should be addressed
don't forget to check the cruise control.
Bottom line do you like the way the vehicle feels?

 

[Adieu]

Wait, 170k or 270k?

Big difference

Also... car flippers are generally hoping for at least a grand per flip, so how much did he pay for it????

 

[1955moose]

The flipper will never say what he paid, I never did, nor was I asked. The check engine light could be due to the missing cats, but could be more. Bring a cheap OBD2 scanner, or ask if he has one you can hook up. Do you guys have smog checks in New Mexico, like here in California? Seller is responsible for it passing here, not buyer, unless negotiated into price. The Abs could be a problem. Why didn't this guy fix the major things? I bought a Lincoln Mark 7 about 9 years back that had abs light on when I bought it. Got good price so didn't worry. About 2 months after I bought it, the abs pump quit completely, and scared the hell out of me. Literally only hard no boost brakes. Sounds like your looking at about $500.00 on up just in parts. That windshield alone is $300.00 for a decent one sealed proper. You might want to take the others advice and find another newer one. Just my 2cents. Members here that start out with this many issues, find way more, the further they dig.


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