I hate duplicating work but looks like I’ll be duplicating work!

[Black]

Plans are 2” lift utilizing Bilstein 5100 adjustable struts for the front and Bilstein 4600 rear shocks with Readylift 2” rear spacer, BDS Upper Control Arms, and 285/75/17 tires.
I planned to do everything all at once so I do not have to duplicate work or lift the truck and run factory 18” wheels with HT Goodyear’s.

Well my rear driver shock it DEAD!!! She had been weeping slightly for a bit so I knew it was coming. But the puddle in the drive and the huge thud going over speed bumps confirms it.



I have been parts collecting and have lower spring perches and the rear spacers. Have money for the Bilsteins.
So I can do the 2” lift minus UCAs (the struts don’t have to come out to replace the UCAs but will need another alignment).
But pretty sure the truck would look a bit ridiculous lifted 2”s on factory HTs.

So do I just put in the rear shocks and duplicate some of the rear work later to put the spacers on?
Do I do front and rear so I have better shocks/struts all around and duplicate the work again and have to get a 2nd alignment as well?
Do I just go ahead and lift it, align it, and when I get new wheels slap those on and get aligned again?

 

[Yupster Dog]

In my experience, don't rush the lift. Just replace the rear shocks. I hate doing things twice as well but more times than not anything I rushed before I was ready to do ended up being more time, more money and more headache.
Besides when you go to do the lift you will get that back off twice as fast then you can put your undivided attention on the front.

 

[Vancouver Bob]

Hmmm... would the cost of the front Blisteins cover the cost of the rear UCA's? Was thinking maybe you put the funds you have into getting everything done on the rear... new shocks, spacers, UCA's. You'd end up with a little more rake. Maybe that's a bad idea for reasons I'm not thinking of. Just a thought. Looks wise, it's a work in progress so keep your eye on the prize and not worry too much about the looks while you get there.

 

[Black]

There are no rear upper control arms.
The UCAs are the least of worrying about duplicating work as they can be installed without removing the strut assembly.

Wheels and tires are the biggest bump in the budget. I have another toy up for sale that will cover them so hoping it sells sooner rather than later and we’ll have no issues.

 

[Vancouver Bob]

Well, hopefully your funding comes in and you'll be good to go. Be sure to post pictures!

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

The factory rears (and the Motorcraft replacements) are garbage. I had multiple prematurely blow out on me. (Not sure if that's what you had.) As to whether to do it twice or not, I guess that depends on how long it would be before you have all the parts. You can obviously drive without the working shock for a little while, but I wouldn't go too long on it.

 

[Black]

Being that the rear is shot I’ll likely just put the Bilsteins in the rear for now.
The rears are far less labor intensive to get out and put the spacers on and no real need for an alignment.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Starting in 2014 model year, the rear suspension incorporated Nivomat hydraulic payload leveling and trailer load leveling system. I am pretty sure this is standard equipment.

Any replacement shock should have this feature or you will likely experience sag in the rear.

 

[Black]

Starting in 2014 model year, the rear suspension incorporated Nivomat hydraulic payload leveling and trailer load leveling system. I am pretty sure this is standard equipment.

Any replacement shock should have this feature or you will likely experience sag in the rear.

Nivomat is not standard on the XLT it is an option with the 202A package.

 

[Black]

I have rear Bilsteins on the way. The thuds and ride deterioration is very noticeable and the rears need be done.
I’ll just duplicate the work on the rears to add the spacer when I can get tires. Fortunately the rears are a lot less work than the front also won’t have do compress the spring just bolt the spacer on.
Wanted to get new wheels and go with 34s on 17s but in a cost saving measure will likely just keep my stock wheels and run 34s on 17s.