Blackwater
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Anybody using ice wax? pros and cons please! What about bar clay?
ice wax?
- Thread starter Blackwater
- Start date
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davesexplorer
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I just use the mothers wax that comes in a round metal container, nothing special but it looks good and helps the mud/crap run off of it.
OP
OP
Blackwater
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Do you use the carnauba? I have used to before but it didn’t seem to hold up as well as good old turtle wax. Seemed I had to do more applications in a period of time. Most of my friends are fans of mothers though. I have been a big fan of turtle wax and never thought I would use something else but they make the Ice wax so….
I broke and went and picked some up right after posting the thread. I went to the local car wash and waxed her up a little. Temp was great for it here tonight!
Cons so far and might come to change when I see it in day light is there didn’t seem to be that much…really no difference in shine on the paint. The big plus and this makes me want to say this stuff is the ****! True to what’s on the box you can polish your plastic and rubber. Lol I like the fact that there was no white paste marks and you don’t have to go back to use Armorial on your plastic’s and is does and great job bringing it back to black. I had issues with the rubber around all the mirrors and windows. Couldn’t get armorial to absorb and it was always streaky. Plus it is a pain to go back and be careful with a rag not to get armorial on the pant and windows.
Plus 1 in my book just for the plastic waxing and it looks so much better then armorial.
Lets just see how its going to look in the morning and how long will it last?????????
I broke and went and picked some up right after posting the thread. I went to the local car wash and waxed her up a little. Temp was great for it here tonight!
Cons so far and might come to change when I see it in day light is there didn’t seem to be that much…really no difference in shine on the paint. The big plus and this makes me want to say this stuff is the ****! True to what’s on the box you can polish your plastic and rubber. Lol I like the fact that there was no white paste marks and you don’t have to go back to use Armorial on your plastic’s and is does and great job bringing it back to black. I had issues with the rubber around all the mirrors and windows. Couldn’t get armorial to absorb and it was always streaky. Plus it is a pain to go back and be careful with a rag not to get armorial on the pant and windows.
Plus 1 in my book just for the plastic waxing and it looks so much better then armorial.
Lets just see how its going to look in the morning and how long will it last?????????
davesexplorer
Full Access Members
I do end up applying the mothers pretty often at least in the summer so I cant really say how long it lasts, we'll see tomorrow I've been slacking off it's been about a month and I just went off-roading earlier this evening.
Now that I saw what the bottle looks like I think I have one in my garage, I'll have to give it a try.
Now that I saw what the bottle looks like I think I have one in my garage, I'll have to give it a try.
Oh man, there are so many options on could use for detailing.
Turtle Wax is somewhat looked down on by people of the detailing world. Usually subpar looks/duration. Granted, I have heard the ICE line is rather easy to apply and use.
Depending on what look you're trying to go for, you can use a sealant or a carnuba wax. Generally speaking, a sealant will give you a shiney, almost "seran-wrap" look, while a carnuba wax will usually give you a deeper, "wet" look. Usually, lighter colors will benefit more from a sealant, while darker colors will want more of the dark, wet look.
For my white Expy, I like using Collinite 845 IW, or Wolfgang's sealant. Both have held up pretty well, and looked nice and shiney. On my friend's blue S4, he's liked using P21S 100%, as well as the Natty's red and blue.
You should read through the detailing sticky found in the detailing seciton over at F150online for more info on waxes, as well as glazes and paint correction.
As far as clay bars, you should use them every so often, maybe 2-3 times a year, or when you can feel "roughness" in your paint. Just remember that you need to wax after claying since a clay bar will take off old wax. Either way, you should be good using either the Megs, Mother's, or Clay Magic found at most auto stores or in the car section at Target/Walmart.
Turtle Wax is somewhat looked down on by people of the detailing world. Usually subpar looks/duration. Granted, I have heard the ICE line is rather easy to apply and use.
Depending on what look you're trying to go for, you can use a sealant or a carnuba wax. Generally speaking, a sealant will give you a shiney, almost "seran-wrap" look, while a carnuba wax will usually give you a deeper, "wet" look. Usually, lighter colors will benefit more from a sealant, while darker colors will want more of the dark, wet look.
For my white Expy, I like using Collinite 845 IW, or Wolfgang's sealant. Both have held up pretty well, and looked nice and shiney. On my friend's blue S4, he's liked using P21S 100%, as well as the Natty's red and blue.
You should read through the detailing sticky found in the detailing seciton over at F150online for more info on waxes, as well as glazes and paint correction.
As far as clay bars, you should use them every so often, maybe 2-3 times a year, or when you can feel "roughness" in your paint. Just remember that you need to wax after claying since a clay bar will take off old wax. Either way, you should be good using either the Megs, Mother's, or Clay Magic found at most auto stores or in the car section at Target/Walmart.
cardude427
Active Member
I used their interior stuff and was not impressed but have not gotten a chance to use their exterior stuff. As for clay bar it's good to use a couple times a year depending on how much you drive and where you drive. A guy named Junkman2000 as a bunch of good detailing videos on youtube, although he uses Adam's his techniques can be transferred to mothers/turtle wax products.
OP
OP
Blackwater
Full Access Members
I use to detail in Manheim, PA. home to one of the largest auto auctions on the east coast I believe. That place was nuts on action day. Even though I have seen a lot of product used turtle wax seemed to be used more by the larger recon shops.
gto78
Active Member
I'm a detailing fanatic and have been an active member over on autopia.org for many years. They are the gurus in detailing and they've tried every product you can think of. I've also tried tons of different products and have my own opinions of them.
I've tried ICE detailing spray but not their wax. A friend of mine told me to try it because he loved the wax, it was real easy to apply. I tried the spray, and was seriously disapointed. It's horrible. It runs right off the paint, unlike other detail sprays that seem to stick and "soak in" when you wipe them on. It's like oil and water, they don't mix. The paint looks and feels the same before and after applying it. Honestly I think 100% of it gets absorbed by the detailing cloth and zero is sticking to the paint. All I did was waste my time with that crap.
If you're not into detailing and don't really enjoy spending hours each month doing it, then use synthetic wax instead of carnauba. Synthetic wax will look as good or better than carnauba and iin addition, it will last for 4-6 MONTHS!!!! Carnauba only lasts for a few weeks, and honestly only looks good for about a week until the first time it's washed.
My favorite "wax" sealant I use is called Rejex. It's frikin awesome stuff. It goes on and wipes off extremely easy. It's suuper slippery stuff and practically nothing can stick to it. It lasts about 5-7 months in Florida where we have high heat followed by harsh down pours that normally melt and rinse off regular waxes. Rejex also has an ultra shiny finish that looks wet. Some synthetics are not liked because they leave a plastic or clouded finish, but this stuff is twice as glossy as any carnauba. A lot of my customers use it on their airplanes because planes are a pain to wash, and you pretty much just rinse it with a water hose to get the dirt off.
Other synthetic waxes I like are Jeff's Werkstatt, and Mothers.
I've tried ICE detailing spray but not their wax. A friend of mine told me to try it because he loved the wax, it was real easy to apply. I tried the spray, and was seriously disapointed. It's horrible. It runs right off the paint, unlike other detail sprays that seem to stick and "soak in" when you wipe them on. It's like oil and water, they don't mix. The paint looks and feels the same before and after applying it. Honestly I think 100% of it gets absorbed by the detailing cloth and zero is sticking to the paint. All I did was waste my time with that crap.
If you're not into detailing and don't really enjoy spending hours each month doing it, then use synthetic wax instead of carnauba. Synthetic wax will look as good or better than carnauba and iin addition, it will last for 4-6 MONTHS!!!! Carnauba only lasts for a few weeks, and honestly only looks good for about a week until the first time it's washed.
My favorite "wax" sealant I use is called Rejex. It's frikin awesome stuff. It goes on and wipes off extremely easy. It's suuper slippery stuff and practically nothing can stick to it. It lasts about 5-7 months in Florida where we have high heat followed by harsh down pours that normally melt and rinse off regular waxes. Rejex also has an ultra shiny finish that looks wet. Some synthetics are not liked because they leave a plastic or clouded finish, but this stuff is twice as glossy as any carnauba. A lot of my customers use it on their airplanes because planes are a pain to wash, and you pretty much just rinse it with a water hose to get the dirt off.
Other synthetic waxes I like are Jeff's Werkstatt, and Mothers.
smo0othride
Full Access Members
I bought some ice wax a few months ago, but havn't got around to using it yet... I probaby will with in a week though. There were 2 major reasons why I bought it: First, it says you can put it on in direct sunlight and heat and will still work just as well. Second, it says it will improve the look of black rubber and plastic trim pieces, instead of turn them white like most waxes. I will try it out and post what I think of it. Normally I use the NXT Generation wax by Meguiars. That stuff does an excellant job, it makes your paint shine a lot more then other waxes.
For wax bars, if you want smooth paint, they will make a world of a difference. If you use one make sure to keep it moisturized and turn the wax often or else you will end up scratching the paint with the dirt the bar picked up.
For wax bars, if you want smooth paint, they will make a world of a difference. If you use one make sure to keep it moisturized and turn the wax often or else you will end up scratching the paint with the dirt the bar picked up.
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gto78
Active Member
Good idea, I forgot to mention that. Clay bars will make a day and night difference in how your paint feels. Some clay bars have a rougher finish, some are smoother. I like the "Pinnacle" brand clay bar. I use it with a spray bottle of water with a few drops of dish soap in the bottle. I use it after washing the paint. I don't apply any pressure to the clay bar or else it sticks to the paint and leaves little smear looking skid marks on the paint that are a pain to wipe back off.
The clay bar turns dark black after wiping each section from all the carbon soot and "fallout" contaminants it pulls out of the pores of the paint. I always fold the clay bar in half after each section and use a new fresh section of the clay bar for each fender or door etc. If you put your hand inside a sandwich bag and slide it over the paint before and after you clay bar, you'll notice a major difference. Before it will sound like sand paper, after it will be silent and slippery.
The clay bar turns dark black after wiping each section from all the carbon soot and "fallout" contaminants it pulls out of the pores of the paint. I always fold the clay bar in half after each section and use a new fresh section of the clay bar for each fender or door etc. If you put your hand inside a sandwich bag and slide it over the paint before and after you clay bar, you'll notice a major difference. Before it will sound like sand paper, after it will be silent and slippery.
