Intermittent no crank no start

[kmb333]

Hi my 2011 Ford expedition el 4x4 has intermittent no crank no start issue. Usually starts in the morning with no issues but after traveling, it does not crank or start intermittently even in neutral it won't start.
Odometer shows up in the display and the anti theft blinks normal so its not Pats issue.
When we try to crank it, the relays click.
The battery is new, the starter is also fine. Updated the PCM to latest software but problem persists.
Do I need to replace my PCM?
Please advise thank you.

 

[Motorcity muscle]

What is the voltage at battery when the relays click?

 

[kmb333]

Update: tried to start her up on PARK, nothing happens.
Placed on Neutral, shaked the shifter boom engine cranks and starts.
Any help?

 

[inmanlanier]

check this out - I'm having the same issues. Maybe we can combine the posts... https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/pats-issue-no-start-no-crank.46705/page-3

 

[Trainmaster]

If shaking the shifter solves your problem, you need a neutral safety switch or its equivalent, or rge shifter's out of adjustment. I'm not familiar with the specifics, but that's where you have to start.

 

[Hamfisted]

Do you have a laptop and the ForScan app installed ? With the key ON move the shifter through it's ranges and watch on ForScan for the position the PCM is receiving from the position switch in the transmission ( 6R80 = internal neutral switch...). If the position reported is different than what you have selected you need a new internal safety switch. Which involves pulling the valve body down from the tranny to access the position switch.

Replacing the Neutral Safety Switch on Ford 6R80 Transmission Video




.

 

[inmanlanier]

There was a lengthy post here with more broad symptoms for some folks: https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/pats-issue-no-start-no-crank.46705/page-3#post-452974 In my case it turned out to be the connection between the ECU and the harness. The ECU is in the engine compartment - IMHO a very poor design. The large connector simply had some marginal connections. The connector was cleaned, reconnected and that solved our problem. This was after we systematically tried multiple checks throughout the process.

If you are going to focus on the neutral start safety switch (shifter) - make sure its repeatable. One of our challenges was the nature of the failures. It would start once or twice, then after that no start. It would lead you to believe the last trick tried where it did start was success when it was not - simply a red herring.