Intermittent no start issue

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08HybridOK

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A few weeks ago I had a no start (no crank) issue; after a few min of trying, took the key out, opened the windows because it was getting hot, it started just fine.

Thought that was weird; maybe something after 13yrs interfered with the PATS part of my key or something.

So Today I have the issue again, turn the key, all the electronics come on, but no crank. I can hear a click low in the dash (assume it's a relay), then a soft thunk sound from somewhere in the engine bay or under the car, can't tell.

Checked the battery has 11.9 vots, tried jumping it any way, still no go. Tried all 3 of my keys, nothing. So off to google I go. See it might be the Netural safety switch; go out & try to start in Netural, and viola, starts right up! Whew.

But now to why? Where do I look, test, replace so it doesn't happen again. Is it just a fuse/relay, or the actual switch I assume on the tranny; if so how hard is it to replace?

Am I searching in the reight direction? I put my ScanGauge on it at the no start, and no codes were found, altho I did get a check engine light.

Thanks for any input!

Bryan
 

stamp11127

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Anything man made wears and/or will need adjustment in its lifetime. It can also be corroded pins in the connector to the switch.
Worse case replace the switch.
 

jbanks

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Just to rule out getting lucky with the back glass and the neutral safety.

You should confirm you are not hearing the firewall mounted solenoid that feeds power to the starter. It is on the passenger side of the firewall near the fender. Have someone crank it while you listen in that area.

If that solenoid is what you hear clicking I would suspect you have corroded/bad battery cables or need a new starter. It's relatively easy to get at the wiring on the starter to check what it looks like.

Since you are in OK and not way up north where the roads see tons of salt it might be unlikely that they are corroded but it's worth a check.

By the way. 11.9volts at the battery is slightly low. Mine always reads above 12.5
 

jbanks

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Here's the neutral safety switch.
3814d1325648591-reverse-lights-dont-work-03_expedition_safety_neutral_switch_r1.jpg


That's the transmission pan. I believe it's the drivers side.

Check out this thread too: http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t815_ds542200
 
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08HybridOK

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Thanks guys, I'll run with these ideas.

Corrosion on what pins?

I do have constant battery terminal corrosion too; on both terminals. I keep taking my battery to the store to tell them it's bad; but they just charge it & say it's fine. I even had Ford test my Alt last time I had it in for a $9 oil change; they said it tested fine. I may just need to buy a new battery before it gets cold.

I did just change the oil the day before this last incident; this time I used ramps. Backed out & parked it a while ( to get a good read on the dipstick); started hooked up a trailer; parked it over night; the no started happened next day.

As far as clicking, it sounds like a relay in the fuse box under the steering wheel. It's the other mysterious sound I'll need a helper figuring out; if/when it happens again.

Thanks for the advice.
 

stamp11127

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The alt can be fine and the corrosion at the battery terminals drops the voltage down to a point that the battery isn't getting charged or it is trickle charged.
Corrosion is a resistor - needs to be cleaned up for a good connection. Once that is done, add a corrosion inhibitor to the terminals. I use the green and red battery post pads w/oil added to them.

In the picture that jbanks posted, the pins are inside the connector that plugs into the switch.

Have the battery load tested for 15 seconds with a load that is half the cca - then take a reading of its state.

What is the voltage at the battery with the engine running?
 

toms89

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My experience with pats is it will allow it to crank fine but just no start.

I believe it is likely in the starter circuit or possibly bad connections as mentioned by the others.
 

jbanks

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I was actually thinking you should check where the wires/cables attach to the starter. They are held on with nuts. Mine had a plastic cover on them that just pulls off.

If you jack up the passenger side it's relatively easy to get at.

If you take the wires off and clean them up, put some dielectic grease on them to help prevent corrosion. You can use it on you battery terminals too, and any other electrical connection! http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/
 
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08HybridOK

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Well I'm feeling more confident in thinking it's the neutral switch; it happened again this morning; just wiggled the shifter (leaving it in park) and it started right up 2nd attempt.

So what's the part#? Does AZ or Oreilley carry it?

Is this it?
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-511-101-Transmission-Range-Sensor/dp/B0089T034C/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Hopefully I saved the post that talked about re-aligning it, something about put it in reverse & adjusting something until the backup lights come on...


If I don't get to it right away, is this something that could leave me stranded somewhere, or will it normilay allow a start if I shift to Neutral?
 
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jbanks

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I'm going to guess it could leave you stranded. :D When you least need to be stranded....

That looks like the right part, but I'm sure you could get it at Oreilly or AZ....

You might also check ROCK AUTO they are a forum sponsor.
 
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08HybridOK

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That would be MY luck; get stranded when I least need to be!

I ordered it; not so much for the price; but I needed a few little things and this part gave me free shipping on everything. Not gonna get time to work on it for a few days anyway...

Now to tackle the corrosion issue! MY 1st 2 batterys had little to no corrosion issue; this last one is a PITA!
 
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