Is it normal A/C performance ???

[TobyU]

Clean that condenser. Anything under 45 is good for a R134a system. Some get colder but some struggle to stay below 50.

Is this idling or sitting still at 1200-1500 RPM or rolling down the road at a constant 35-40 mph?

You need to get some gauges on it to see what the readings are.
I am guessing you are a little low on refrigerant. Does it cycle the clutch on and off ever? What about if you hold rpms in park at 1500? Does it cycle clutch?
If your low side is barely above the low side switch cut out which is about 22 psi it would be low enough to not cool its best but still keep compressor on all the time.

I never have worked in 117F temps so I would have to refer to charts. but in 85-95 temps the low side should not be over 40-42. 32-37 is good if it's cold and sweating a lot on the accumulator bottle and the low side line.
This is at 1200 rpms as the low side will be a good deal higher at idle.

 

[bobmbx]

Clean that condenser. Anything under 45 is good for a R134a system. Some get colder but some struggle to stay below 50.

Is this idling or sitting still at 1200-1500 RPM or rolling down the road at a constant 35-40 mph?

You need to get some gauges on it to see what the readings are.
I am guessing you are a little low on refrigerant. Does it cycle the clutch on and off ever? What about if you hold rpms in park at 1500? Does it cycle clutch?
If your low side is barely above the low side switch cut out which is about 22 psi it would be low enough to not cool its best but still keep compressor on all the time.

I never have worked in 117F temps so I would have to refer to charts. but in 85-95 temps the low side should not be over 40-42. 32-37 is good if it's cold and sweating a lot on the accumulator bottle and the low side line.
This is at 1200 rpms as the low side will be a good deal higher at idle.

There won't be much sweat, if any, in Saudi Arabia.

 

[TobyU]

There won't be much sweat, if any, in Saudi Arabia.

Nope

 

[Mubarakma]

The high side pressure is a good indicator of how well the condenser is condensing the refrigerant. When there are issues the high side pressure can get extremely high.

One of our students forgot to turn on the condenser fan on the trainer he was using. The high side pressure was 450+, low side was climbing and hit 60+ when I shut it down. Needless to say it wasn't cooling very well.

Another thing to check is the drain. If it is clogged the evap will be covered in water and not cool well.

Thank you very much still I didn't do anything but today I tried something early morning while going to duty means highway driving what I did is I kept rear A/C off and I use cruise control to maintain 120 km/h "75 mph" for about 40 minutes at same speed and atmosphere temperature was 32 degrees Celsius "89.6 degrees Fahrenheit" temperature gauge reading was 40 F during whole highway driving and 44 F inside city so I got more cool during highway driving .
I suggest everyone who has temperature gauge to take a photo if A/C running with reference to atmosphere temperature .In my case it's clear for me that I have to look at cooling system from flush & replace coolant will try to make it 40/60 or 50/50 , Thermostat and radiator/condenser service and cleaning other than that everything is working well.
Thank you again
Regards

 

[TobyU]

4 degrees colder on highway with higher rpms and more airflow over condenser sounds about right and 44 is also cold ac.
Even in the old days of the 80s with R12, 42 - 45 degrees in the center duct with fan on high and engine speed at 1500 RPM was considered excellent performance and properly charged. Some did get colder than this but that was considered hitting the parameters that needed to be.
Also, I have seen many of these vehicles with rear AC systems that will perform better and get colder if you have the rear AC on at least on position 1 or 2 as opposed to it being turned off in the rear.
Without gauges it's hard to tell but it sounds like if anything you might only be 5-8 oz low of refrigerant.
I wouldn't really suspect the cooling system of the vehicle having a problem. You would be able to tell if the engine is running hotter from the temperature gauge on the dash and I have seen plenty of cars that were darn near overheating that still had an Ice Cold Air Conditioning.

 

[Dustin Gebhardt]

Have you hooked up a set of gauges and read the high and low pressure readings?

 

[Grey ghost]

When's the last time you change your cabin filter?
I'd also recommend having your windows tinted with the ceramic film it's amazing what that stuff does.

 

[Dave-S]

This may sound really smart-alec like, but is not intended to be... do you have split controls for your rear cabin on the back of the center console?

I raise this on the basis it happened to me just last month. My kid got cold and used the rear controller to turn the hot/cold knob to warm. I didnt know/realize it. I thought my AC was needing recharging for 2 weeks.

 

[Joedirtyshirt]

I have a 2017 was also disappointed in A/C performance , My 2004 Taurus made cooler air, I believe the system just is not big enough for this vehicle, and at this point in ownership it is the only thing I would complain about, I still am totally in LOVE WITH IT

 

[mquick5]

i always run the a/c in recirc mode to keep re-cooling the cabin air vice outside air.

You should run it on fresh air, until it starts to cool. Once the trapped hot air is out of the vehicle, switch to recirculate.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[max78]

This may sound really smart-alec like, but is not intended to be... do you have split controls for your rear cabin on the back of the center console?

I raise this on the basis it happened to me just last month. My kid got cold and used the rear controller to turn the hot/cold knob to warm. I didnt know/realize it. I thought my AC was needing recharging for 2 weeks.

I have had that happen to me so many times its not even funny! The other one that gets me is my buddies will turn on the heated seats while I'm not looking.

 

[Mubarakma]

Thank you very much to all of you now there is little improvement on A/C performance after replacing the coolant, thermostat and cleaning the radiator I'm able to see 42-44 F on city and 40 F on highway driving I believe still there is area of improvement because the radiator is in bad condition even after cleaning will be replaced next summer along with flushing cooling system overall I'm happy with what I'have now again thank you all

 

[TobyU]

Thank you very much to all of you now there is little improvement on A/C performance after replacing the coolant, thermostat and cleaning the radiator I'm able to see 42-44 F on city and 40 F on highway driving I believe still there is area of improvement because the radiator is in bad condition even after cleaning will be replaced next summer along with flushing cooling system overall I'm happy with what I'have now again thank you all

Cool! Literally. I consider anything under 45 at idle or around town perfect for 134A subpar crap.
There are 134a systems that get REALLY cold. I had a 2000 LHS that we had just put a junk yard compressor on as the old one was damaged in a wreck that hit 29 coming out the center vent on a side road when I didn't have the fan blasting on full.
Rare for r134 to get cold enough to frost though.
I have an 87 Buick Grand National with GM R4 junk compressor that was retroed to 134a and I have a pic of the black metal low side lines coming out of AV bottle that are icing up and growing in size along with the AV bottle /can being frosted over completely.
That's cold for a retro. But the car has a huge condenser up front.

 

[Mubarakma]

Cool! Literally. I consider anything under 45 at idle or around town perfect for 134A subpar crap.
There are 134a systems that get REALLY cold. I had a 2000 LHS that we had just put a junk yard compressor on as the old one was damaged in a wreck that hit 29 coming out the center vent on a side road when I didn't have the fan blasting on full.
Rare for r134 to get cold enough to frost though.
I have an 87 Buick Grand National with GM R4 junk compressor that was retroed to 134a and I have a pic of the black metal low side lines coming out of AV bottle that are icing up and growing in size along with the AV bottle /can being frosted over completely.
That's cold for a retro. But the car has a huge condenser up front.

Thank you
Really I'm happy now with A/C currently our atmosphere temperature is more than 46 Degree Celsius"114.8 degrees Fahrenheit" it will reach to 50+ degree Celsius "122 degrees Fahrenheit" normally in July temperature will be in the range of 46-52 which is extremely hot and while you drive if open your window you might be looking like this​

​

 

[yellowdogrods]

New to forum and just found it this evening while searching for possible answers to my wife’s complaints about my truck’s ac (2015 F-150) being much colder than hers (2017 Expedition).

Hopefully someone on here might have an idea why this might be. First thing I did was go to WM and buy a can of refrigerant after I checked her Expedition to find the air was not cool what-so-ever. Connected the gauge on the low-pressure port which showed the charge to be only slightly low. Proceeded to add refrigerant as per the directions. After getting it charged mid-way through the green range on the gauge, found I was successful in getting the front air cooled off again and was quite proud of myself! I’m not much of a mechanic but google and YouTube have helped me diagnose and fix quite a few things over the years. However....the rear air is blowing warm air and I cannot understand why. I’m not 100% certain but I don’t believe there’s a separate system or low pressure line for the rear. I think I understand there to be only one system and if you charge the system it should work for both the front and rear. The other possibility I have seen is there could be a bad expansion valve?

Anyone have any experience with this type of thing? If so I’d sincerely appreciate some insight or suggestions. If no ideas, I may just take to the dealer but I prefer to fix myself if possible.

Thank you!

 

[07navi]

There are ac parts way in the back also I think that truck has an expansion valve and not and orifice tube but it does have another evaporator back there and the rear blend door actuator is what usually goes bad. You can access all that by taking the rear panels off. To answer your question about a separate pressurized line; no there is only one and it is accessed at the front. The expansion valve can stick also. If you don't have a gauge set with hoses you will surely need one. They make kits to block off the rear if you want to go that route. Don't let it run out of 134a refrigerant or you will have to evacuate the whole system and recharge. Those with rear air systems take a lot of "Freon". (They don't use Freon anymore.) There is another heater core back there to, much like the front setup.
The evaporator looks like the heater core but puts out cold air. The blend door needs to control where the air from the rear fan is going and the often quits doing that...…..to put it simple.

 

[TobyU]

Usually you will hear clicking from the blend door actuator in the rear when you're going from hot to cold instead of just moving over smoothly. Anytime you hear One clicking when you change the temperature from hot to cold you know there's a problem with the blend door actuator. It will usually stick on full hot or full cold and often not move between the two.
As stated in the last post, you can pop the cover off or some of them have a little top access panel you can get into a little easier and see if the lines are actually getting cold back there. They probably are if your front is pretty cold.

 

[aagitch]

New to forum and just found it this evening while searching for possible answers to my wife’s complaints about my truck’s ac (2015 F-150) being much colder than hers (2017 Expedition).

Hopefully someone on here might have an idea why this might be. First thing I did was go to WM and buy a can of refrigerant after I checked her Expedition to find the air was not cool what-so-ever. Connected the gauge on the low-pressure port which showed the charge to be only slightly low. Proceeded to add refrigerant as per the directions. After getting it charged mid-way through the green range on the gauge, found I was successful in getting the front air cooled off again and was quite proud of myself! I’m not much of a mechanic but google and YouTube have helped me diagnose and fix quite a few things over the years. However....the rear air is blowing warm air and I cannot understand why. I’m not 100% certain but I don’t believe there’s a separate system or low pressure line for the rear. I think I understand there to be only one system and if you charge the system it should work for both the front and rear. The other possibility I have seen is there could be a bad expansion valve?

Anyone have any experience with this type of thing? If so I’d sincerely appreciate some insight or suggestions. If no ideas, I may just take to the dealer but I prefer to fix myself if possible.

Thank you!

Your '17 should get pretty cold both front and back. Mine does well when I'm in Florida for parts of the summer. Although between city and hwy driving I would constantly have to adjust the manual controls to compensate but it always gave me the cold I needed. Here in Kentucky it doesn't get hot enough for me to have to do that. I have Auto climate control now so looking forward to using that down in Florida this coming summer. Oh hell you're in Florida so you now what I mean about the stop and go city driving there.

 

[Trainmaster]

Yes, check the back blend door. If it clicks when you turn the back controls, the actuator motor has to be replaced. Not a bad or expensive job.

 

[yellowdogrods]

Thank you everyone for the excellent responses. I will most likely get it to the dealer as the responses provided sound more in depth than just adding refrigerant. I may piddle with it this weekend for a few minutes, if nothing else, to see what and where everything is and where it is all located so I am more familiar when the dealer is filling me in on what the problem is. Again, thanks to all who responded for taking the time to do so.