It's time for an engine rebuild

[dj_mindframe_99]

so my 99 E.B. developed a lifter tick, or a rod knock today.

the Warranty company (ASC) paperwork says that basically the engine and all internal lubed parts = covered.

A call to the best place in my area reveals his experience is that they will find a reason to not warranty it....what ever it doesn't really matter it probably is my fault anyway, no big deal.

The tech said it would be $3,700 +tax to totally rebuild the engine

this is where I need you guys, what do you think I should do with the engine now that it is broken?

should I,
1, just rebuild it as it is for $3,700 and tax. at local place

2, rebuild it and have a littler hotter cams installed bored a little over, you know, a light or mild sort of upgrade. at local place.

3, buy a used replacement and "hope for the best" at a low low price.

4, buy a crate engine of either stock or mild performance parts

or any ideas you guys have, remember the baseline for the rebuild is $3,700 if the cost of your idea is higher it must be justified and not silly, this is still my daily/weekend warrior.

The two cents on my own question is I like the idea of spending just a little more to bore it and clean it up a little more, cause if it's broke and its gonna be that much to fix I might as well pay a little more and get something I can be more proud of that's newer/better/stronger/faster.

and I appreciate all comments/ ideas, silly or otherwise.

and on a more fun side note, I don't care what you guy say, I have shorty headers and they are going on!! but that's only because I'm sick of looking at them in the garage. and I want that space back.

 

[JUST4FUN]

most likely the warranty co would (if they cover it ) will give you a check fo the value of the expy. it not worth them fixing it.

 

[JUST4FUN]

also it might be an exaust leak out of the manifold so dont jump the gun too fast. your in MI so they use salt on the roads

 

[02expi]

I bought an 02 with a bad motor and after thinking about it all decided to find a low mileage motor and go that route. I found a 39 k motor for 1400 plus shipping @ 225 and installed it myself. I couldn't be happier!! Lots of work to change it but worth the effort, and I knew it was done right when I finished.

 

[dougmcp]

There are myriad things that can be done for a tick, a rod knock is a whole different story, a stethoscope would find the culprit pretty quickly.
I wouldn't consider anything replacement/rebuild related until I did a compression check.

 

[dj_mindframe_99]

oh it's even worse now, I took it out on the highway the other day and I could hear the bearings or the piston rings scraping away. sounded like I was dragging it down the highway, sweet.

so I am going to have the engine rebuilt (as long as the block is still good) and find out about the following setup;
comp cams #102200 more aggressive than stock across the board, no tuning req'd
upgraded pushrods, and maybe polish the intake/exhaust ports or something to that affect, you know...bench work.
the engine will be gone over top to bottom and cleaned, bored, honed, decked, checked, and rechecked. they will replace all the seals and recondition or replace everything else. comes with a 5 year 250,000 mile warranty.

on the outside of the block, I will be putting E-3 plugs in, I just have to remember to take it back in about 300 miles to get them all re-torqued. (that's the trick to keeping them from blowing out)
underdrive pulleys, gotts mod, k&n cai, better MAF, throttle body spacer, magnaflow cat-back, superchips tuner, I'll finally have my electric fans installed.

Once the engine is rebuilt and counting all the other stuff to make it better, the engine should be no less than 300 HP with torque to match, making for a formidable vehicle.

 

[jacks3am]

Build it lightly with flat top pistons, ported heads, long tubes, maybe a cam if you feel like it

 

[dj_mindframe_99]

the head porting I'm in for,

I wouldn't be interested in spending my money on long tube headers right now.

now those pistons you mentioned, with my block being bored out a little bit, how do I make sure I get the right pistons? don't they have to be spec'd to the new bore diameter?
I ask because I don't know, I might be interested in spending $700 on flat top pistons if I knew for sure that the one's I buy would fit. or should I leave it all up to the people at the engine shop who have been building these for 30 years?

 

[jacks3am]

http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/man594000c-8.htm

pick your bore and have it machined at the shop accordingly!

 

[dj_mindframe_99]

I've put it on the list, I will be going over all my options with the mechanic when I limp the truck in for repair.

once I get it decided what all I can do, shouldn't do, and can't afford to do. I'll let you all know what that setup is, what the overall output will be, and my cost involved.