Looking to Buy a 2nd Gen Eddie -- Years/Options to Look For?

[thadius856]

Hey all. First time poster. Read a bunch of articles here and on mobile over the last few days. Still pretty limited on my knowledge... hopefully somebody here can help me out or direct me to stuff already posted that I missed.

I know for sure that I want:

• 5.4L
• 2WD
• Eddie Bauer trim
• Heavy duty tow package

After that I get a bit lost.

• Which is better: the 03/04 with 2V and 4R70W, or the 05/06 with 3V and 4R75E?
• Did the 2nd gen come factory with anything besides 3.73's?
• Are there any other options I should be keeping an eye out for?

I have ample time to sit and wait for the perfect Expy. Don't want to rush into not having an option that I'll regret later.

Huge thanks in advance and Like's to everybody that helps.

 

[DetroitDarin]

I'd stay away from the 3V engine if I did it over again; also I think 2004 they were still drive by cable - the old fashioned way. Now it's drive by wire and the computer ultimately decides how much gas to give the engine regardless of the pedal.

Check out the radiator support - holds up the headlights too. That thing can get nasty-rusty

 

[Canadianguy]

The 3v engine offers a bit more horse then previous 03/04 models. Two things to note with 3v engine is the infamous spark plug breakage and the cam phaser issue. These are two issues I personally have dealt with my 05.

 

[igozumn]

I work in the parts department of a Ford dealer. Just picked up an '03 about 4 weeks ago. I didn't want anything having to do with cam phasers or solenoids. That alone, sent me to the '03 and '04 model years. I also didn't want any auto suspension options. I looked at so many '97-02 Expeditions online, I got to where I could tell which suspension it had just by the way it sat, LOL. With the '03-04, just look underneath and look for coil springs on the front AND rear suspension. I too, preferred 2wd with heavy trailer tow. No sunroof. No DVD entertainment system. Just more stuff to go bad or have problems with. Most of the CD6 radios have issues with the CD player. I'm waiting to replace mine with an aftermarket head unit. Knocking, popping in the front end could be either ball joints or sway bar end links. I ended up replacing everything on mine. It has 167,000 miles on it.

Take it for a drive and listen to it. Excessive wind noise could be collapsed weatherstrips, tweaked door frames or latch issues. Groaning from the rear end limited slip clutches could be more trouble.

Ask if the spark plugs have been done. The '03-04 generally don't have breakage issues, but they could have that one plug that blows out.

Half the lock and window switches in mine didn't light up. Ok. More than half. Run the rear air controls to see if you hear any popping. The blend door motors are not durable. If you are looking at one with heated and cooled front seats, make sure they work. If you're checking it when cold, hit the heated half and the switch should light up red. To check the cooled half, I believe you have to have the A/C on. Hit that half of the switch and it should light up blue. Mine weren't working when I bought it. Luckily, reprogramming both climate controlled seat modules brought them both back to life.

Look at the A/C compressor and see if there is any green oil hanging off of it. If you end up needing a new compressor, well, they aren't cheap from Ford.

Inspect the rear tail gate for corrosion or paint bubbling, especially around the handle area. They are aluminium and Ford had issues getting the paint to stay on. Hopefully they have figured it out with the new F150. Weatherstrip around the liftgate glass opening can shrink. New ones fit better, but not perfect. Open the liftgate glass and push the weatherstrip out in the corners to check it.

There is a place or two in Texas that reproduces the front seat covers. The Seat Shop is one.

If you're buying one to use the 3rd row seat for passengers, you might look at the 40% (RH) seat. On that seat, the LH side hinge cover and seat belt receptacle can have issues from the shoulder belt on the middle seat getting hung up during up/down movement.

Look at the heater hoses and control valve on the passenger side of the engine for any signs of coolant leakage.

Check that the power pedals move more than an inch. I hadn't checked mine until I found a post (reading every page of ALL the forums while at work has merit) regarding an issue with the gear inside the mechanism. Like the blend door motors, the plastic gear breaks. Curless Automotive sells a brass gear ($85) to fix it. My gear showed up today. Should take 20-30 minutes to replace it.

If the turn signal on the bottom of the mirror looks like it has junk in it, it is most likely the chrome coming off the reflector inside leaving the black base plastic underneath showing. It's all glued/molded together, so replacement is the only option.

Step up on the running boards and inspect the roof panel seams in the channels next to the roof rack for rust.

Mirror motors. I had to replace one. Not too hard. The option for the mirrors to dip/tilt when in reverse can be turned off, and that helps save the wear and tear on the motors.

I prefer no tire pressure monitoring system, but others may prefer the safety of such government intervention and additional maintenance costs.

 

[thadius856]

My email just now decided to show me replies to this topic. Yikes!

Thanks to everybody that responded. I had read several of the pre-purchase threads, so I had a fair idea what to look for on these.

I don't have any use for the 6CD changer. I'll take a few CD's with me if I go to look at one. If it's broken, more buyer leverage for me.

If the turn signal on the bottom of the mirror looks like it has junk in it, it is most likely the chrome coming off the reflector inside leaving the black base plastic underneath showing. It's all glued/molded together, so replacement is the only option.

Are you referring to the driver/passenger side mirrors? I wasn't aware there was lights on them (bonus!) but I'll be sure to check those.

 

[igozumn]

Yes, on the bottom of the exterior mirrors. You can do an image search on google and see the turn signal lens on some of them. Not sure if it was standard for the Eddie Bauer or just a regular option. Have to dig into an old sales brochure at work to see how they're listed.

 

[Bedrck47]

On the 03 there has been many reported problems with a few relays in the fuse block The relays are soldered to the circuit board inside of the fuse block. The 03 also has had reports of the windows , radio not working due to a splice in the pink wire that runs under the drivers side kick plate.

The 05 and 06 models have the Fuel Pump Drivers Module which has known problems of corroding but that is normally due to road salt.

If you were to do a search on those items here on the forum you will get some good information.

 

[igozumn]

I sold a fuse block to a shop the other day for an '03. Asked him what the issue was. He said it was the fuel relay issue as mentioned above. I didn't think to ask him for the old one, so I could tear into it and have a look-see.

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

I have an '05 Eddie Bauer with 128,000 miles on it. It's pretty much loaded and I've not had any major issues. I've had it for a year and a half. I bought it with 119,000 miles on it. I did have to replace the air compressor for the air suspension. I really like the air suspension, it rides great. I do have issues with the radiator support and I know that at some point I will have to take care of that.

Everything works and it's like anything else you have pay to keep it in good condition unless you have the ability to fix it yourself.

 

[Goats]

On the 03 there has been many reported problems with a few relays in the fuse block The relays are soldered to the circuit board inside of the fuse block. The 03 also has had reports of the windows , radio not working due to a splice in the pink wire that runs under the drivers side kick plate.

The 05 and 06 models have the Fuel Pump Drivers Module which has known problems of corroding but that is normally due to road salt.

If you were to do a search on those items here on the forum you will get some good information.

Are you talking about the relays under the hood,as for kick plate do u mean the dead pedal

 

[Bedrck47]

Are you talking about the relays under the hood,as for kick plate do u mean the dead pedal

Read the attached links as they will explain the issues with the fuse block and the purple wire problem I have also attached a pic of the purple wire problem

The purple wires are under the sill plate on the drivers side and behind the kick panel.

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f41/po430-code-non-start-issue-22423/#post180859

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f16/...-auto-headlight-not-working-25453/#post208117

Refer to page 4 on the above link and see attached pics

 

[igozumn]

The fuse/junction block behind the passenger side kick panel on the A pillar.

 

[DonahueRyan4]

I've got a 2003 Eddie Bauer 4WD
-5.4 L (330 cid) 2 valve V8

Mine has all options EXCEPT
-Navigation
-heated seats
-traction control
-TPMS

I have never had any problems with it, except for a new catalytic converter at 135k miles.

The only thing I'd look for is paint bubbling and/or peeling. (Both of which you can see on my expedition below) however this has been determined to be a factory defect

 

[2004XLT]

Everything already stated great info. I would choose a 2V (03-04) over a 3v (05 or newer) just because of the breaking plug issues. I was concerned that a 2V 4.6 would be way too weak (supposed to be even slower than a 1st gen with the 4.6 due to weight added in 2nd gen) however I was happy with it after test driving. You may consider a 4.6 simply because the smaller engine seems to preserve the transmission better. The Ford Triton modular V8 engines are already a pain to replace spark plugs on, no need to make it any worse. Check the edge of the hood, rear tailgat, roof and wheel wells for any bubbles in the paint, rust, etc. Make sure all interior lighting works especially on the window and lock switches on all 4 doors if you're concerned about that. Check for rust or corrosion on the lines that come out of the radiator, I had one start leaking and the other one is on it's way out. Radiator support, look under the front bumper and look around the front body mount, that's where the rust will be the worst.

 

[thadius856]

Update

Realized I never came back and thanked everybody for all the great info. I certainly read it!

I ended up stumbling upon a '01 XLT that was an amazing deal. It was a few things I didn't want ('01, XLT, white, 4.6L), but it was in amazing condition. Garage-kept. Perfect interior. Not a single stain or leather rip.




I checked just about everything you guys mentioned, and every single thing checked out.

No tailgate bubbling
6-CD changer still works 100%
All weatherstripping great condition
All doors closed smoothly
EVERY switch light works
Hood/hatch hydraulics brand new
A/C compressor good and blows cold in front (rear needs a recharge)
3rd row seat never sat on
2nd row fold-down seat fully functional
Mirror motors work
Power pedal work
Running boards good
No rust anywhere, even the radiator supports. The bushings are still fresh!

No TPMS (meh), no sunroof (meh), no DVD (good, tablets work better anyway).

Professionally lowered and with 20" wheels. I could care less, but the (short) wife is happy about it!

A paint chip missing from the driver's door handle and the driver's window squeaks a little when going past 1/3 down.

35,305 miles. Dealer serviced every time with CarFax to prove it all. $5,500.

For that price, I could maybe get an '03-'04 with 150k miles in fair condition in my market.


I do wish I had the Eddie exterior trim, but I think I'll live.