Losing transmission fluid.

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James McCracken

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2004 4.6L 4x4

obviously I have a leak.

At first it appeared to be coming from the dip stick area however after replacing it it’s still leaking.

Possibly a pinhole leak in the a line that’s spraying? Problem is I can’t locate it without running. It doesn’t leak while just sitting still.

So today I Jack the right side up and get under it while running in Neutral. As I’m looking around I see a good bit of fluid dripping from the rear of the transmission on the top left. Is there some sort of weep hole if it’s over filled?

Before jacking it up I had zero fluid back there so I’m certain it’s still a leak on the right front area. UNLESS it’s leaking from the top right and it’s running back to the left rear due to being jacked up.

best I can tell I can’t see any lines on the top side though and all the fluid while driving is getting on the right side frame and dip stick.
 

Trainmaster

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I had a leak where my dipstick tube rotted a hole in it. But if it's spraying while running I'd suspect a cooling line or connector? Look at them. Forget where it's dripping from the case -- that always fools you. It runs down and around and drips from the low point. Get up there with a light and a mirror.
 
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James McCracken

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I had a leak where my dipstick tube rotted a hole in it. But if it's spraying while running I'd suspect a cooling line or connector? Look at them. Forget where it's dripping from the case -- that always fools you. It runs down and around and drips from the low point. Get up there with a light and a mirror.


I guess what I really need to know is if their is a week hole on top anywhere.
 
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James McCracken

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I doubt it. A vent maybe, but short of the cooler lines, there's the bulkhead connector where the wires pass into the case. They often leak and there were recalls for the o-rungs on them, but nothing that would shoot fluid under pressure. That would be a cooler line.

Ok thank you. I’m going to get it up on ramps in the front and Jack stands in the rear and put it in drive see if I can pin point the leak. I’ve already rinsed under it a few days ago so it should be easier to spot.

I did notice the cooler lines are held together with a black clip to keep them from rubbing I’d assume.
I slid the clip forward. Don’t see a leak while sitting but the line is worn down where the clip was. I’ll find out once it’s off the ground.
 

Plati

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Ok thank you. I’m going to get it up on ramps in the front and Jack stands in the rear and put it in drive see if I can pin point the leak. I’ve already rinsed under it a few days ago so it should be easier to spot.

I did notice the cooler lines are held together with a black clip to keep them from rubbing I’d assume.
I slid the clip forward. Don’t see a leak while sitting but the line is worn down where the clip was. I’ll find out once it’s off the ground.
Maybe I'm paranoid, ok I AM risk aversive, but your plan sounds dangerous.
Maybe its just me?
Lost a good friend doing something like that a few years ago. Pickup truck crushed him.

I dont know what you rinsed it with. When I was trying to identify my rear diff leak I sprayed the whole area thoroughly with brake cleaner. Leak was obvious after that.
 
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James McCracken

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Maybe I'm paranoid, ok I AM risk aversive, but your plan sounds dangerous.
Maybe its just me?
Lost a good friend doing something like that a few years ago. Pickup truck crushed him.

I dont know what you rinsed it with. When I was trying to identify my rear diff leak I sprayed the whole area thoroughly with brake cleaner. Leak was obvious after that.

I suppose it could be dangerous but since I don’t have a lift or the money to take it to a shop I don’t have much of a choice.

after doing this it appears that the fluid is coming out of the vent tube. It’s possible that it has too much fluid in it. Originally the leak was on the right side. I’m 99 percent positive it was from the dip stick. I think it was over filled after that now causing it to come out of the vent tube.

I still have to get my front brake issue taken care of also.

It was warm out and I was coming home from work the front right caliper stuck. Got externally hot.
Well I went to remove the caliper last weekend and could not get the lug nuts off. My Milwaukee impact would not budge them neither would a breaker bar. Pretty sure they’re now seized into the studs after getting that hot. Weather has been cold so no issues since then. Till today again warm out after the cold spell and now it’s wanting to stick again.
I can’t fix it if I can’t get the darn wheel off. I’ve never had the wheel off since I’ve owned it so hard to say if it’s from the brake getting hot or if it was already like that.
 

Hamfisted

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You know anybody with an air impact wrench ? If that's a battery powered Milwaukee impact, then yeah, it ain't gonna break it loose. It'll take an air impact to do it. Check all your other lug nuts now, and make sure you can break them free. You don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a flat tire and run into this issue.
 

sjwelds

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IDK where these are made, we buy them from our local lumberyard. Got a 3/8" drive, 3 1/2" drive, and 2 3/4" drives.

I've taken truck wheels off with the 1/2".

Yes they are good. We have a couple air guns that we haven't used in years....
 
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James McCracken

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You know anybody with an air impact wrench ? If that's a battery powered Milwaukee impact, then yeah, it ain't gonna break it loose. It'll take an air impact to do it. Check all your other lug nuts now, and make sure you can break them free. You don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a flat tire and run into this issue.


My Milwaukee will do the job under normal circumstances.

it took the one off at the junk yard just fine. These are basically welded to the studs due to the heat from the brake locking up.
 

CaptOchs

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When I replaced a leaking power steering line, I had the mechanic do the transmission lines because they were a step behind the power steering lines in terms of rust. For what it's worth...
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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Are those things really any good? I have a Milwaukee China right angle 3/8" impact wrench that sucks. Tell me which ones are good and I'll try them.

I've got this one. I paid $150 w/ the battery during a holiday sale. Lifetime warranty on all of the Ridgid stuff. Ridgid makes a high torque version also, but that one puts out 620 ft./lbs so it's good for most jobs.
 

Tocapet

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I doubt it. A vent maybe, but short of the cooler lines, there's the bulkhead connector where the wires pass into the case. They often leak and there were recalls for the o-rungs on them, but nothing that would shoot fluid under pressure. That would be a cooler line.

My 2009 EL had that leak. I ordered the bulkhead connector and replaced it. You have to drop the transmission pan because there is a release for the bulkhead connector inside. While you're in there, replace the transmission filter and pan gasket. Button everything back up and fill it back up with new Mercon. That's a pain to do because the filler hole is on the right side very close to the catalytic converter. And the fluid level is critical. There is a little bitty dipstick there. Wear heavy gloves or you will burn your hand. The fluid level needs to be checked with the transmission at normal operating temperature and on level ground, idling in park. Some mechanics just fill the transmission cold with the level just at the bottom of the crosshatch area on the dipstick. At least Mercon is not expensive at the Ford dealer. It has been 6 years since I replaced that bulkhead connector, so I don't remember how many quarts of Mercon it took. Gimme a break... I'm 80 Y. O.
 

Plati

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I had lug nuts frozen on an Audi Fox I had back in 1980 (great car by the way). Nothing worse than either frozen or swollen nuts. The tire shop waaaay over torqued them. I put a 6 foot black iron pipe on the breaker bar (top quality SK) and just leaned on it out horizontal or so. At first even that didn't do it with I added a little oomph and with a "creak" noise it broke loose and I was on my way. 200 pounds at 6 foot length is like 1200 foot pounds I think. Was able to get all the wheels off.

btw.. IMHO no matter how hot it gets, I dont believe thats why the nuts are frozen on. I think it could be corrosion OR over torque --- as if I really know. I dunno.
 
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Hamfisted

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My Milwaukee will do the job under normal circumstances.

it took the one off at the junk yard just fine. These are basically welded to the studs due to the heat from the brake locking up.

Ok. But I have a Milwaukee 18v 1/2" impact and it really struggles to break my lug nuts loose ( 140 ft lbs torque to specs ). Whereas my air gun will pop it off like butter.
But just check your other lug nuts on the Expy to make sure you can get them off on the side of the road if you need to. Been there, done that.
 

BlackCoffee

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I like my 18V Milwaukee, but it does seem to max out at about 140 ft-lbs. Had to take off the front drive shaft from the transfer case when I did the tranny. It took soaking the bolts, heat, and an air impact to get them off. Two of us, and it still took an hour for six bolts.
 
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James McCracken

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You know anybody with an air impact wrench ? If that's a battery powered Milwaukee impact, then yeah, it ain't gonna break it loose. It'll take an air impact to do it. Check all your other lug nuts now, and make sure you can break them free. You don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a flat tire and run into this issue.


Air impact wouldn’t budge them.

checked the others a few minutes ago. Right rear my Milwaukee took them off just fine.

the driver side is just like the front passenger side. They won’t budge.
 
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