Misfire/ poor running Eddie Bauer

[nick8102]

Hi,
I have a 1997 Eddie Bauer that just is running poorly if you floor it, it wont rev over about 3000 rpm and runs rough but if you ease the gas the truck can rev up and runs decent

Any ideas on what this could be? I was thinking an o2 sensor or maybe an injector this sound like a good place to start?

 

[BANGEREXPO76]

Do you have a CEL? Codes?

 

[nick8102]

I will be getting them very soon I was just checking to see if its something that was super obvious before I do a code read on it.

Also as a side question does anyone know where to get pre bent brake lines for the eb? Mine are rusted out all the way back

 

[FordandPolaris]

I would say start with the COP's and spark plugs if you are not going to pull the codes. Just in case you didnt know, Autozone, O'Reilly's, and pretty much any parts store in general has a code reader you can use for free. Post the codes back here and it will be just as good as taking it into a shop.

 

[nick8102]

Thanks, I have a code reader from a buddy just gotta get the truck to my shop to use it, also the biggest thing that worries me is that this is a bad vale/ lobe on the cam does this sound at all like a possibility?

 

[toms89]

I would first check for vacuum leak.. Crack in the rubber elbow on the back of the manifold found in the following link.

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f27/rough-idle-p0171-p0174-heres-what-you-need-check-first-4926/

Cops and sparkplugs are also a problem area with these as FordandPolaris mentioned but generally create a noticeable misfire..

 

[toms89]

Thanks, I have a code reader from a buddy just gotta get the truck to my shop to use it, also the biggest thing that worries me is that this is a bad vale/ lobe on the cam does this sound at all like a possibility?

Mechanical issues are far less common.. Generally vacuum, ignition or fuel related issues.

 

[Jeff532003]

Could of blown a plug. I'm not sure when they updated the heads but originally their was only three threads into the aluminum to hold the plug and they've been known to blow out. You can timesert it for a nice permenant fix. I've never done one but I hear its not to bad of a job. Just follow directions.

 

[nick8102]

With the lack of threads in the head should i be very worried as i put the new plugs in?
Also with the blown plug how will i be able to tell? Will it simply look like a stripped block?

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

when my (#3 passenger side) puked just over 2 years ago, it blew the cop off (sounded like a shotgun went off) leaving plastic pieces everywhere and unfortunately the plug hit the fuel rail and ricocheted then repositioned itself back inside the original plug well ontop of the piston....yeah who'd of thought that could happen & not have an explosion, but the borescope didn't lie.

cracked the head leading to a complete rebuild as I had 147,774 at the time of failure. funny thing is it didn't throw a code, but made one heck of a racket sounding just like a blown head gasket.

This was the second plug change, first @ 47,724 back in Monterey, CA, and the second here in the South @ 132,660 due to a misfire on #5 by CEL.

Vortech literature recommends changing plugs every 50,000 miles to maintain peak performance of the Super Charger and it was pushed approx 35,000 over the change periodicity, so the puked plug may have happened even sooner perhaps had I changed around 100,000.

PanHandler.

 

[toms89]

With the lack of threads in the head should i be very worried as i put the new plugs in?
Also with the blown plug how will i be able to tell? Will it simply look like a stripped block?

If you blew a plug you would know. If it got to the point to ejecting it you would have heard it followed by many other symptoms.

If you have a loose plug ready to blow many times you will hear what sounds like and exhaust tic but generally it runs fine.

 

[toms89]

With the lack of threads in the head should i be very worried as i put the new plugs in?
Also with the blown plug how will i be able to tell? Will it simply look like a stripped block?

I would be concerned but no sense in worrying.
Torque them too tightly and you can damage the threads. Too loose and they can loosen up over time and damage the threads.

Factory spark plug torque specs are 15 lb-ft (As printed in the 2000 expy ford shop manual)
NGK also recommends against the use of anti-seize as the plugs come with a zinc coating that resist corrosion and the use of it will skew the torque readings causing you to over torque the plugs. I believe motorcraft plugs are similar in design.

You will hear many theorys and opinions on the net on the proper way to install them though. I won't argue one way or the other...

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

our other tell-tale indicator was an occasional smell of gas that no one could diagnose....if i had only known.

PanHandler.

 

[Jeff532003]

Like panhandler said you'd know if it blew a plug out because it would just be sitting there not screwed in. I don't think they all blow as spectacularly as his did but you should be able to notice. As far as stripping the cylinder head it's always a possibility with aluminum heads. I recommend blowing out the hole with compressed air then shooting a little PB blaster down there to lubricate it and loosen it up. Don't squirt to much or you'll have to crank the engine with the plugs out. If to much liquid gets in to the cylinder then you reinstall a plug it can cause hydrolock. Not a good thing. A squirt or two will be fine though. Go slow when removing them. If they're stuck don't jam your ratchet, apply slow steady pressure to try and break it free. When reinstalling coat the threads with never seize so that next time they'll come right out.
One more thing. To tell if they stripped as you pulled them out, look at the threads of the old plug. You'll see the aluminum in between the threads of the plug if you did in fact strip the hole.

 

[Jeff532003]

NGK also recommends against the use of anti-seize as the plugs come with a zinc coating that resist corrosion and the use of it will skew the torque readings causing you to over torque the plugs. I believe motorcraft plugs are similar in design.

You will hear many theorys and opinions on the net on the proper way to install them though. I won't argue one way or the other...

This is actually good information to know. I didn't realize some manufacturers where coating them in zinc now. About time they realized steel and aluminum don't play well together.

 

[nick8102]

So I finalky did a code read out and the code I pulled was P0352 and I was told that the rear apark plugs have never been changed probably a coil in one of the back two cylinders?.