Multiple electrical issues....help?

[swagfu]

I have no power to my mirrors...or they aren't working. The switch does nothing and they were both working when I bought the truck about a month ago. Also my driver rear vent window is not working and I don't hear any sound out of it. I bought a new motor for it, but with all this other stuff going on, I am waiting to change it. The left passenger side opened today but wouldn't close until I turned off the truck and started it again. The rear wiper stopped working again. I changed the motor last week and it worked fine until the other day. Now I don't even hear it trying to run. All my windows go up and down fine from the master switch housing in the driver door. I checked the fuses and they all look good.

Any ideas? Anyone in Central Florida good at this stuff willing to help me out for a couple cases of beer?

I don't want to buy new mirrors to come and find out they still don't have power. The vent windows aren't crazy important, but I have them and would like them to work. The rear wiper is fairly important to me I suppose. I don't use it often, but living in Florida, it would be nice to have.

 

[Jimmatt]

You may have a broken wire in the door boot between the door and the body

 

[Bedrck47]

What do you mean by "I checked the fuses and they all look good."

How did you check them? Please explain your procedure.

Also it would be nice to know the year of your expy

 

[swagfu]

I have a 1999 Eddie Bauer. I am only able to visually look at the fuses at this point. I also visually checked the ground points in the foot wells. I may be able to get a tester this weekend. I have never used one, but I am a quick study for most things. The truck runs great and I have no issues there...thank goodness.

 

[swagfu]

You may have a broken wire in the door boot between the door and the body

If it were only the windows and vent window, then maybe, but its also the rear wiper which doesn't go through the door at all.

 

[Bedrck47]

The one thing about looking at fuses is you can see if the fuse is good or bad most of the time. But the bad thing is you can not see if power is going thru the fuse and its power (voltage) that makes things operate not looks.

Get yourself a decent tester and get back to the forum There are some good people on here that will and can help you trouble shoot the problems.

Lowes or home depot sell multi meters. Not expensive and they will do the job.
I prefer a meter but a test light will also work The meter will show the actual voltage whereas a test light will only show voltage is present

If you need some wiring diagrams we can help you with those

 

[Bedrck47]

Do you have the owners manual That way if you are told to check a certain fuse you will be able to see where it is located.

 

[swagfu]

Thanks Bedrick47. I do have the owners manual so I can locate the fuse numbers pretty well. I am going to get a meter this weekend.

 

[swagfu]

Looking through the owners manual I came across which fuses/relays control my issue areas. If you look at the list, I am pretty sure Fuse 14 is fine as everything it covers except the rear wipers are working. I am pretty sure Fuse 4 is also working as I am able to gain entry with the door keypad. Plus my interior lights work fine...which I think is the autolamp description. As I move to the power distribution box under the hood, I need to check Fuse 12 as my rear wiper does not work. Fuse 110 will need to be checked due to the flip windows. I don't have a moonroof or heated seats. 212 and 213 are half relays and I am not really sure what that means, but I will have to check those for the rear wiper. May just replace those if they aren't too expensive. Can someone tell me what I am looking for with those? CB601 looks like a 30A fuse. I am not sure if thats a Maxi fuse or something different. But I will have to check that one for the vent windows as well. I am curious on the power mirrors, the only fuse in the manual shows Fuse #4. There are two fuses that include the heated mirrors (17 10A Heated Mirrors, Heated Grid Switch Indicator) and (116 40A** Rear Window Defroster, Heated Mirrors) I don't have heated mirrors, but could these be part of the no power issue?



Is there anything else I should check? Also, does anyone have any part numbers for the relays I might need?



Interior fuse box

Fuse #4 15A - Autolamp Module, Remote Entry Module,
Mirrors, Air Suspension Switch

Fuse # 14 15A - Rear Wipers, Running Board Lamps,
Battery Saver Relay, Interior Lamp Relay,
Accessory Delay Relay (Power Windows)


Exterior Power box

12 10A* Rear Wipers

110 30A** Maxi fuse - Moonroof, Flip Windows and Heated Seats

212 — Rear Wiper Up Relay (Half Relay)
213 — Rear Wiper Down Relay (Half Relay)

CB601 30A Delayed Accessory (Power Windows, Flip
Windows, Moonroof)

 

[Bedrck47]

CB601 is a circuit breaker I would not start replacing relays until you prove they are bad.

Need to know if you have memory mirrors or non memory
You can go to ford etis and enter your vin number and get a read out of all that was on the expy when built.

Read the attached link for information on testing fuses

http://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/fuse-testing-101.24587/

After you get a meter and test fuses Post the results

If you have voltage at fuse #4 for the mirrors then you will need to remove the Drivers side door panel so you can check power at the switch

 

[swagfu]

Got a multimeter this morning. In the panel behind the fuse box, I tested #4 (result 12.16) and #14 (result 12.12). My battery showed 12.34. In the power distribution box i tested #12 (result 12.43). #110 Has continuity but I couldn't get a reading on it on the tester. As far as 212 and 213 go, I can hear them both clicking when I turn the rear wiper switch to the on position.

 

[Bedrck47]

Fuse 110 should have 12 volts at all times Pull that fuse and place one lead into the contact area to see if you have voltage with the fuse removed you will only see voltage on one side Look at the fuse and see if there is any signs of corrosion on the contacts Also look into the area where the fuse plugs into to make sure there is no signs of corrosion and make sure the socket that the blades of the fuse contact are closed.

If the appear to be loose you can squeeze them together so the fuse makes better contact

 

[swagfu]

I will go check that now. Oh yeah, I do not have memory mirrors. I am also going to pull the door panel of and check or power at the switch. As far as the rear wiper goes, is there anything else I need to check? I just replaced the motor a few weeks ago and now nothing. Not even hearing it try.

 

[swagfu]

Ok, I went to check 110. It is showing 12.3 on one side. I also removed the door panel and check for power at the switch and at the mirror connection. Both read .06 whether the key is in the on position or off. Whats next?

All the connections look clean with no corrosion at all.

Fuse 110


Inner door


Mirror switch plug

 

[Bedrck47]

You may want to pull the rear hatch panel and disconnect the connector at the motor Then we can check for power at that connector

 

[Bedrck47]

Put fuse 110 back in Make sure you are now getting voltage on both sides of the fuse

 

[swagfu]

Gotta be honest, all this electrical checking is frustrating. In the end it will probably be something simple. Are there any more ground areas inside that I can check?

 

[swagfu]

How do i check it while in? do i need to take off the little cap?

I will go out and pull the back panel off and check the connection there as well. Be back shortly

 

[swagfu]

Went out to check the rear wiper. I can hear the relays and the motor trying to go, but it is still not wiping. Even if I lift a little by hand.

 

[Bedrck47]

Sorry forgot 110 is a maxi fuse check it with the ohm meter as long as you had power into it you should have power out