My 99 Expedition

[Cmac2020]

So I had an opportunity to pick up this Expedition for $400 - 169k on the clock. Had the typical misfire, needed plugs, and coils, and the Suspension had problems, I knew it needed 2 wheel bearings in the front, and brakes. So far I have $800 in it, plus my original $400, = $1200.

I still need, AC Compressor (I think, possibly Blend Door), ball joints (didn't know until I had done the hub assemblies and wheel bearings) and tires but she purrs and drives well!

New Clay Bar and Wax last weekend (Before and After pic) - more to come, thanks for adding me to the forum!

 

[Bedrck47]

Welcome to the Forum

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

congrat and welcome.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Welcome aboard.

Check out my "journey" with my 2000 in my signature.

 

[docraymund]

Looks great! Worth your time and effort!

 

[ChrisOIFdoc]

You picked the right generation for a used one and a good project. Enjoy!

 

[rjdelp7]

Great truck for DIY mechanic. Rust is only thing that kills these. It will however, keep you busy on semi regular basis. Check your trailing arms, they can be a problem. Ford sold a ton of the 1st Gen and still many on road looking good. You can get easily 200K+ out of this model.

 

[FFUnit07]

I just picked up a 2002 and I was curious what work you did to the suspension? Mine has a lot of lean around corners and it is in need of new shocks.

 

[rjdelp7]

I just picked up a 2002 and I was curious what work you did to the suspension? Mine has a lot of lean around corners and it is in need of new shocks.

Body Roll is a common on a SUV. The longer the suspension travels, the more roll. This is why lowering a car is better for cornering. The rear axle has a track bar and 4 trailing arms. Check them and, esp the arms and springs. Your photo looks like rear, is sitting a little low.

 

[FFUnit07]

Body Roll is a common on a SUV. The longer the suspension travels, the more roll. This is why lowering a car is better for cornering. The rear axle has a track bar and 4 trailing arms. Check them and, esp the arms and springs. Your photo looks like rear, it is sitting a little low.

Thanks for the reply. What exactly would I be looking for when looking at the trailing arms, the coils and the track bar? I see a lot of surface rust and some cracking in the rubber, but nothing too bad that would be an obvious cause of the roll and bounce. I was going to just try replacing the shocks and possibly the coils to see if that remedied the problem. Thank you in advance for your reply.

 

[rjdelp7]

Thanks for the reply. What exactly would I be looking for when looking at the trailing arms, the coils and the track bar? I see a lot of surface rust and some cracking in the rubber, but nothing too bad that would be an obvious cause of the roll and bounce. I was going to just try replacing the shocks and possibly the coils to see if that remedied the problem. Thank you in advance for your reply.

I check for broken shock(rattle on bumps). The trailing arms break or rot out, esp the lowers(clunk going from Rev to Drive). If two break, you can lose the drive shaft and are stranded. The track bar can rust out as well, but unlikely. A broken spring would probably give a permanent lean.

 

[FFUnit07]

Thank you I really appreciate it. It's the lower trailing arms. After you mentioned the clunk from reverse to drive it made me go look at it again because that happens sometimes. Do you have any recommendations on a brand for the replacement parts?

 

[rjdelp7]

Thank you I really appreciate it. It's the lower trailing arms. After you mentioned the clunk from reverse to drive it made me go look at it again because that happens sometimes. Do you have any recommendations on a brand for the replacement parts?

They have some good sets on Ebay. They are stronger, box design, powder coat, with hardware. The lowers were $69 free ship. Don't put it off to long. Good luck.