Need to replace brake line from antilock to rear brakes

[Lee_H]

Hello folks its been awhile. I had a short road trip and used the brakes hard to make an exit. Brake light came on 'bout a mile or two down the road. Checked the brake fluid, none in the plastic tank. Made it to a Walgreens and bought nearly all the cans of fluid (four total). Needed three to get home while driving in Low2 and Low1. Checked the leak point, back passenger side line rusted, driver side only little better (the rust was still holding pressure). Was looking a RockAuto.com to see what is available. It seems from youtube videos that the way to go is to buy lengths of tubing to the driver side frame and then buy the rubber hoses. The getting around the gas tank looks messy as well. Is this it? No pre-bent lines? Does the fuel tank need to be lowered to go across? What size line, only steel? Not sure about "copper" or stainless either. Help!

 

[Lee_H]

After "Doing My Own Research" here on the Expedition forum there was a suggestion to buy from "In Line Tube" (inlinetube.com) kit number SFRB0203. Has anyone dealt with these folks? Price was not bad for Stainless line. I have a feeling that other lines may have joined the rust club as well and a kit would help when brake time comes around.

The line that lives on top of the fuel tank still worries me. The straps holding the gas tank are rusted as well. I thought of replacing the straps as well, hence the idea of lowering the tank fishing the line over. Any thoughts on the idea of covering the line with a length of cheap rubber hose w/ one wall split and wire tied back together to protect the tank and line?

 

[Retiredusps]

you can buy brake lines in short sections and add a coupler. Did wifes 2005 ran along frame rail. Coupled about under rear pass door.It never went over fuel tank, Are you sure you are not looking at the fuel line.I think the 2 lines and coupler were less than $25.00 Copper clad steel.

 

[Motorcity muscle]

Ni-copp is good for brake lines and can be bent by hand.

 

[Lee_H]

Well I purchased the kit from inline tube .com for brake lines, Stainless will be less of a worry later on. The line running over the fuel tank is still going to be " delicate surgery " and tank straps. I got though the cooling system and side window, the electric problems will take a bit longer. Wish me good luck when the parts arrive.

 

[Lee_H]

Inline tube's kit arrived, tried to figure out the connection points and positioning before ripping the old lines out. Not easy at all, wasted a whole Saturday looking for a gender changer for one of the lines. Sunday had limited time to mess with it as well. Seems the diagram has the position of the 2 of 3 line and the 3 of 3 line rotated backwards. Was not expecting that one of the lines had a bubble end NOT connected to the brake components, it was connected midstream in the line against a female threaded end connector. Good parts may have been ruined by bad and/ or incomplete instructions. I also bought gas tank straps since the ones in the truck are mostly iron oxide at this point. Any "landmines" I should be aware of when lowering the tank by about two inches to get the line across? (fuel line stuff?)

 

[Lee_H]

Main Problem now is trying to get all the air out. There must be an easier way than pulling fluid through with a vaccum hand pump and catch cup. Any better methods ?

 

[Tuck]

If you have an air compressor they make bleed kits for those. Less strain on the hand and moves the fluid a little quicker.

 

[OverlandExpy]

I have a pressurized brake bleeder kit and after using it a bunch honestly I don't even use it when doing brake flushes anymore. Only use the catch cans now. Just top off the reservoir, crack one bleeder ***** at a time, making sure that the level in the reservoir doesn't get too low. Rinse and repeat multiple times per side, starting from the tire that is furthest away from the master cylinder and working your way closer. Drive it around a bit and do it again if it still feels spongy at all, can take a little while to get all the air bubbles out of there.

 

[Al Steel]

Dropping the tank is MAJOR pita on the Expy. Drain as much fuel out as you can before you start but it will still be heavy AF even empty. Blocking the tank with a jack to hold it up as you remove the straps is a must. The straps are also a PITA to remove because they dont just angle straight out. They are "hinged" into a V slot in the frame in the passenger side. Requires a bit of clearance and a LOT of verbal encouragement if they are badly rusted. Plus you need to relieve the pressure on them with the jack. Don't just let the tank drop or hang. Lots of little plastic fuel and EVAP fittings that will snap or crack. Lower gently to get clearance to the fittings if you need to remove them to drop it further. Good luck!

 

[Lee_H]

Well, my brake adventure with pictures. Removed the main line along the driver side frame rail. The rust gave out in a hurry so disassembly was not a problem. A comparison to the nice shiny replacement lines.

 

[Lee_H]

The new line is in three pieces for shipping and ease of installation. Tried to install with tire left on, not really working. Did tape up the union end to keep dirt out.

 

[Lee_H]

Decided to jack up the driver's side and chock the passenger's side. My little floor jack could not go high enough, used truck's jack and jack stands instead.

 

[Lee_H]

This is the view of the "supply" brake line going in, not too bad to assemble.

 

[Lee_H]

Now the back half.

 

[Lee_H]

Since I knew I was most likely unable to fasten the line going to the passenger's side via over the fuel tank. So I did something to help the line not be damaged fishing it through. Pictures show new tank straps and line (in two sections) before and after.

 

[Lee_H]

Now I needed to be under the truck. Safety First! I borrowed a bigger floor jack and rested some of the weight on the car ramps with a 2 by 8 acting as a spacer. The rest of the weight was on jack stands. I also had a old scissor jack with a sheet of plywood supporting the fuel tank to change out the straps. I did the straps first, then the brake line.

 

[Lee_H]

The front strap was not too bad to twist out. Replacement strap was not bent the same. Some some adjusting was needed using two pipe wrenches. Picture shows the "before" lol.

 

[Lee_H]

Back strap is locked into the frame by the drive shaft and the fuel tank itself. Tried to break the stap off but no luck with that. Ended up saying some prayers and got my HF sawzall out with a short blade and used the drive shaft as a guide. The fuel tank and Shaft ended up damage free in the end. That was the out. Same problem with the new part as well. Got my die grinder out and modified the strap to fit.
NOTE TO MANUFACTURES! If you extend the folded section down and punch the "smile face" in both strap sections you will be a mechanic's hero since the drive shaft can remain attached. As it is, I accept it is not as strong as it was unmodified but much stronger than the rusted part it replaced. Maybe not the best solution but it is what I ended up with.

 

[Lee_H]

I maneuvered the cross over brake line after cutting the old line from the flexible frame to wheel line connections. I could not remove the old line without damaging the fuel tank so it remain in the truck. I needed to stretch the driver side line to get to the connection point. This left the passenger side with too much line. I wish the connection point was over to the passenger side more. I could have checked for leaks a lot easier. NOTE: This post was flagged for an unknown reason.